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The Best Final Walk-Through Checklist

October 5, 2025 by Marshal

NOTE – The checklist below should not be relied upon or used as a substitute for a home inspection. The walk-through checklist is a helpful list of items to inspect after the present owners have moved out.

The final walk-through is a personal inspection to ensure that the property’s condition hasn’t changed since the home inspection and that the contract’s terms have been met.

This list serves as a reminder to assist you during the final walk-through inspection of the property. The final walk-through inspection should not be taken lightly, as some very serious damage has been discovered during these inspections. To give the reader an idea of some serious problems that have stopped the closing until the problems were addressed, they are as follows:

  • GARAGE – A fifty-gallon drum was found filled with some type of chemical. Needless to say, everything stopped until the drum was removed.
  • STAIRWAY BANISTER – An expensive banister to the second floor was severely damaged by the movers when they lost control of a heavy couch.
  • FINISHED BASEMENT – This was a vacant house. The electricity, water, and heat were turned off to save money. When the electricity was turned off, the sump pump became inoperative. A heavy rainstorm occurred. Without the functional sump pump, water penetrated the basement, causing severe damage to the finished area.
  • FRONT PORCH AND SIDEWALKS – A very large do-it-yourself mover’s truck backed up to the porch for easy loading. The truck hit the porch, damaging the steps and the porch itself, and cracked the sidewalk leading to the front of the house.
  • DEBRIS OR FURNITURE LEFT ON THE PROPERTY – When people move out and run out of time or money, they often leave debris or furniture behind. If you, as a buyer, accept the situation, it can ultimately cost more than you expect. If you encounter a debris problem when buying a house, we suggest the following steps:
    • Take photos of the furniture left in the house or the debris left on the property
    • Contact your attorney and report the situation, requesting some monetary negotiation at closing.
    • Try to have a contractor give a written estimate to remove the debris before the closing
    • Whatever the cost you are given to remove the debris or furniture from the property, double it. You may have to negotiate the fee at the closing.

How to prepare for the final walk-through

  • TIME OF WALK-THROUGH – As an investor, I have learned to always try to conduct a double walk-through. Typically, the walk-through is conducted on the day of the title closing. The problem with the closing-day walk-through is that if repairs are found, there is no time to obtain accurate repair costs. If possible, I always try to inspect the house as soon as the sellers have moved out and do another inspection on the day of closing. The primary advantage of a double walk-through is that if repairs are discovered during the first walk-through, there is sufficient time to obtain precise repair estimates.
  • HOME INSPECTION REPORT – Bring the home inspection report to the walk-through and check that any agreed-upon repairs were completed.
  • CHECKLIST – Print out this checklist to have a guideline for what to inspect. It’s very easy to forget to inspect something, and the item that goes uninspected is usually the most expensive to repair.
  • PHOTOS – Prepare to take photos of any damage or problems discovered.
  • FLASHLIGHT – Bring a reliable flashlight to help inspect any discovered damage. At this point, I would like to add that you should inspect the house during the daytime, not at night; you’ll discover repairs much faster in daylight. With vacant houses, it’s essential to inspect them during the day.
  • ELECTRICAL OUTLET TESTER – For a few dollars, purchase an electrical outlet tester so you can test all the outlets in the house and garage.

We found repairs, now what do we do?

  1. Call your attorney and inform him that repairs have been identified and must be addressed before the closing of the title. Last-minute serious repairs often result in significant costs being passed on to the buyer due to the urgency of closing and finalizing the purchase.
  2. The best course of action is to delay the closing until the repairs are completed and the terms are negotiated. If delaying the closing isn’t possible, ensure that sufficient funds are held in escrow to cover the repairs.

Easy To Follow Inspection Checklist

Grounds

  • Check the home inspection report. Have all agreed-upon repairs been completed?
  • Has there been any damage done by a large mover’s truck to the grounds or the front of the house?
  • Check trees and bushes around the house. You are ensuring that no tree roots damage the driveway and that tree branches do not contact the roof. Also, check trees and bushes planted too close to the house for similar problems.
  • Is there any debris left on the grounds?
  • What is the condition of the fence?
  • What is the condition of the driveway and sidewalk? Has there been any heavy truck damage?
  • Are the retaining walls in good condition?
  • What is the condition of the patio?

Exterior of The House

  • Check the home inspection report. Have all agreed-upon repairs been completed?
  • Doorbell – Test the doorbell.
  • Front steps – Is there any damage from movers?
  • Check the rear and side steps for damage.
  • Inspect:
    • Porch and decks
    • House siding, trim, and chimney
    • Roof, chimney, rain gutters
    • Basement windows – Look for damage to the exterior window and frame.

Roof – Chimney – Rain Gutters

  • Check the home inspection report. Have all agreed-upon repairs been completed?
  • Roof condition – Look for any damaged shingles, particularly if there has been a heavy rainstorm or extreme weather since the home inspection.
  • Flat roof – Look for cracks, patchwork, and standing water.
  • Visibly look for any cracks or brick damage.
  • Rain Gutters – Are the gutters clean and functional, and the downspouts in good condition and discharging the water at least 4 feet away from the house?

Garages and Car Ports

  • Check the home inspection report. Have all agreed-upon repairs been completed?
  • Free-standing garage – Inspect the exterior and roof.
  • Garage roof condition – Look for any damaged shingles, particularly if there has been a heavy rainstorm or extreme weather since the home inspection.
  • Vehicle garage door – Check the condition and function, and ensure you have the remote control for door operation.
  • Garage condition – The garage should be broom clean, with no debris, furniture, car parts, or other items left inside.
  • Garage – Check the walls, ceiling, floor, and garage entrance door to the house.
  • Electrical outlets: Check them with an outlet tester.
  • Electrical panel – The panel may be in the garage. Unless you’re an electrician, don’t poke around in the panel; check whether any breakers are tripped and whether they are labeled.

Kitchen

  • Check the home inspection report. Have all agreed-upon repairs been completed?
  • Check all appliances for function and condition.
  • Dishwasher –Start at the beginning of the inspection and see if it runs through a full cycle. Usually, dishwashers leak at the end of the cycle, not at the beginning.
  • Sink – Run water and check for leaks or damage to the sink or cabinet.
  • Check all cabinets, drawers, counter tops, and electrical outlets.
  • Inspect the walls, floor, and any tile work. Inspect the floor very carefully. It may have been damaged during the refrigerator’s move.
  • Stove – Ensure all burners light and the oven is functioning properly.
  • Inspect any doors and windows in the kitchen.

House Interior

  • Check the home inspection report. Have all agreed-upon repairs been completed?
  • Inspect all walls, floors, ceilings, and windows for damage.
  • Handrails and banisters are prone to damage from non-professional movers. Check for looseness and condition.
  • Inspect the floors very carefully. Often, floor damage is noted when the furniture is moved out.
  • Windows and doors are very susceptible to damage. Make sure every door closes properly, and there is no window damage. Check windows for cracks and ensure that all windows can latch securely. With thermos windows, look for moisture between the panes. If moisture is detected, the window must be replaced; it can’t be repaired.
  • Electrical outlets – Check all outlets for proper function using your outlet tester.
  • Lights and ceiling fans – Test all lights and run all fans, and ensure you have any necessary remote controls for ceiling fans.
  • Smoke detectors – Are all detectors located and in place as required by the municipality?
  • Pet damage – Check the house for any signs of pet damage or odors.

Fireplace

  • Check the home inspection report. Have all agreed-upon repairs been completed?
  • Masonry work – Check for cracks or damage to masonry.
  • Damper – Does the damper work? Most dampers are difficult to operate and require regular cleaning.
  • Gas fireplace – Does the gas and flame light come on, and does the circulation fan function?

Heat and Central Air Conditioning

  • Check the home inspection report. Have all agreed-upon repairs been completed?
  • Summertime inspection: Test the A/C by setting the thermostat to its lowest setting. If the outside temperature is below 80°, you may be able to test the heat by turning up the thermostat.
  • Winter-time inspection: If the outside temperature is below 65°, don’t test the A/C; you could cause damage.
  • Winter-time inspection of A/C – We recommend obtaining a homeowner’s warranty for the A/C from the seller in case it doesn’t function properly in hot weather. Several warranty companies offer such a warranty.

Bathrooms

  • Check the home inspection report. Have all agreed-upon repairs been completed?
  • Electrical outlets – Test with an outlet tester to ensure proper function.
  • Toilet – Is it tight to the floor, and does it flush properly?
  • Hot water – Is there adequate hot water?
  • Floor walls and tile work – Check for damage.
  • Bathtub – Check for damage to the tub, water flow, faucets, and showerhead. If there is a Jacuzzi tub, fill it to the jet section and start the jet flow. Check every jet for function.
  • Sink and cabinet – Check faucets for water flow, plumbing under the sink for leaks, and cabinets for damage.
  • Shower – Check the tile work for damage and the shower head for water flow. Also, look for signs of mold in the bathroom.
  • Ventilation fan – Is it functional? If window ventilation is used, does the window open and close?
  • Bathroom doors – Make sure they close and lock properly.

Attic

CAUTION – Do not go into an unfloored attic. One wrong move and you could fall into the room below and get seriously injured. In reality, it’s best to rely on the home inspector and their report to detail the necessary repairs and the attic’s condition. However, if the attic is floored and you want to inspect it, the following checklist will help:

  • Check the home inspection report. Have all agreed-upon repairs been completed?
  • Attic area used for storage – Check whether any storage has been left in the attic.
  • Insulation – Is it in good condition, or is it ripped, loose, and hanging in several areas?
  • Steps, handrails, and pull-down stairs – Check for safety and condition.
  • Insulation – Check for condition.
  • Bathroom fan ventilation discharge point – Ensure it discharges to the exterior, not into the attic. Note: A bathroom fan that discharges into the attic over time can create mold.
  • Attic wood structure – Make an inspection for damage to the wood structure, such as wood rot and water stains.

Basement

  • Check the home inspection report. Have all agreed-upon repairs been completed?
  • Basement moisture – Check for any moisture or water in the basement.
  • Basement storage – There should be no furniture or junk left in the basement. It costs money to haul furniture and junk to the dump.
  • Plumbing – Check the inspection report for any repairs that were supposed to be completed and look for any pipe leaks.
  • Basement moisture – Check for signs of water intrusion or stains.
  • Basement floor, walls, and ceiling – Check for cracks and water stains, and note any serious visible repairs.
  • Basement steps – Are the steps and handrail safe?
  • Electrical – Check the lights for loose or hanging wires.
  • Basement windows and doors – Check their condition. This is a red flag area for deferred maintenance and damage.

Crawl Space

  • Check the home inspection report. Have all agreed-upon repairs been completed?
  • Crawl space condition – Make a visible inspection for water intrusion, wood rot, and insulation damage.
  • Crawl space – It’s best to refer to the home inspection report for reported repairs and ask your attorney if the repairs were completed and certified by the seller. The crawl space area is a major concern for potential serious repairs, and it’s essential to follow up to ensure that the repairs were completed.

Structural

  • Check the home inspection report. Have all agreed-upon repairs been completed?
  • House exterior – Do the sides of the house appear straight and not bowed?
  • Porches and decks – Do they appear level with the house and not sag or be out of square with the house?
  • Roofline – Is it straight and level with the house, and not sagging?
  • Windows and doors – Are the window and door frames square?
  • Foundation – Look for cracks and damage.

Electrical

  • Check the home inspection report. Have all agreed-upon repairs been completed?
  • Lights and ceiling fans – Test as many as possible for functionality.
  • Electrical walk-through inspection – It’s best to refer to the home inspection report for reported repairs and ask your attorney if the repairs were completed and certified by the seller.

Plumbing

  • Check the home inspection report. Have all agreed-upon repairs been completed?
  • Pipes – Visibly inspect for any leaks or corroded pipes.
  • Water flow – Turn on the sink faucets on both the first and second floors to ensure adequate flow and pressure.
  • Water heater – Turn on the hot water faucet to check for adequate hot water. Also, check the copper pipes at the top of the heater for heavy corrosion.
  • Water heater on 2nd floor – Check for a catch pan and drain under the heater in case of a leak. A catch pan and drain can save you thousands of dollars when and if the heater leaks.

Laundry

  • Check the home inspection report. Have all agreed-upon repairs been completed?
  • Washer and dryer – Function test.
  • Washer discharge – Ensure the washer completes a full cycle and discharges without leaks.
  • Washer on 2nd floor – Check for a catch pan and drain. A catch pan and drain can save you from expensive repairs if the washer leaks.
  • Laundry sink – Check the faucets for water flow and inspect the area under the sink for any leaks.
  • Electrical outlet – Ensure it’s a three-prong, grounded outlet.
  • Dryer – Does it reach the proper heat setting, and does the front door latch securely?
  • Dryer vent: Is it functional, or crushed behind the dryer? Additionally, if the dryer vent pipe is made of plastic, it’s advisable to upgrade to a metal one for safety reasons.

Filed Under: FYI Tagged With: Resources

Home Repair Costs

November 29, 2022 by Marshal

The following costs are intended as ballpark estimates for repairs and/or improvements to a typical single-family home. Actual contractor quotations can vary by as much as 300%. The quality of workmanship and materials will influence costs. The job’s complexity, accessibility, and even economic conditions can alter actual costs. These prices were compiled in 2018, so current prices will be higher.

The repair costs noted here are a courtesy only. The prices here are older and not representative of current, accurate costs. No liability will be accepted. I recommend you consult a minimum of three qualified contractors to evaluate and estimate repairs before initiating any work on your home.

Roofing / Flashings / Chimneys

Install conventional asphalt shingles over existing shingles$2.00 - $4.00 per sq.ft.
Strip and reshingle with conventional asphalt shingles$2.75- $5.50 per sq.ft.
Strip and reshingle with premium quality asphalt shingles$5.00 - $10.00 per sq .ft.
Strip and re-roof with cedar shingles$9.00 - $18.00 per sq .ft.
Strip and replace built-up tar and gravel roof$10.00 - $20.00 per sq.ft.
(min. $1000)
Strip and replace single-ply membrane$10.00 - $20.00 per sq.ft.
(min. $1000)
Reflash typical skylight or chimney$500.00 - $1000.00
Rebuild typical chimney above roof line$25.00 - $50.00 per row of bricks
(min. $400)
Rebuild typical single flue chimney above roof line$200.00 - $400.00 per lin.ft.
(min. $1000)

Exterior

Install galvanized or aluminum gutters and downspouts$5.00 - $10.00 per lin.ft.
(min. $500)
Install aluminum soffits and fascia$8.00 - $16.00 per lin.ft.
Install aluminum or vinyl siding$6.00 - $12.00 per sq.ft.
Repoint exterior wall (soft mortar)$3.00 - 6.00 per sq.ft.
(min. $500)
Repoint exterior wall (hard mortar)$5.00 - $10.00 per sq.ft.
(min. $500)
Parge foundation walls$3.00 - $6.00 per sq.ft.
Dampproof foundation walls and install weeping tile$150.00 - $300.00 per lin.ft.
(min. $3000)
Install a deck$25.00 - $50.00 per sq.ft.
(min. $1000)
Resurface existing asphalt driveway$2.00 - $4.00 per sq.ft.
Install interlocking brick driveway$8.00 - $16.00 per sq.ft.
Rebuild exterior basement stairwell$5000.00 and up
Build detached garage$70.00 - $140.00 per sq.ft.
Build retaining wall (wood)$20.00 - $40.00 per sq.ft.
(min. $500)
Build retaining wall (concrete)$30.00 - $60.00 per sq.ft.
(min $500)
Painting (trim only)$2000.00 - $4000.00 and up
Painting (trim and wall surfaces)$5000.00 and up

Structure

Underpin one corner of house$5000.00 and up
Underpin or add foundations$300.00 and up per lin. ft.
(min. $3000)
Lower basement floor by underpinning
and/or bench footings
$150.00 - $300.00 per lin .ft.
(min. $5000)
Replace deteriorating sill beam with concrete$60.00 and up per lin. ft.
(min. $2000)
Install basement support post with proper foundation$800.00 - $1600.00
Perform chemical treatment for termites$2000.00 and up
Repair minor crack in poured concrete foundation$400.00 - $800.00

Electrical

Upgrade electrical service to 100 amps
(including new panel)
$1200.00 - $3000.00
Upgrade electrical service to 100 amps
(if a suitably sized panel already exists)
$800.00 - $1600.00
Upgrade electrical service to 200 amps$1700.00 - $3500.00
Install new circuit breaker panel$700.00 - $1400.00
Replace circuit breaker (20 amp or less)$100.00 - $200.00
Add 120 volt circuit (microwave, freezer, etc.)$150.00 - $300.00
Add 240 volt circuit (dryer, stove, etc.)$300.00 - $600.00
Add conventional receptacle$200.00 - $400.00
Replace conventional receptacle with ground fault circuit receptacle$70.00 -$140.00
Replace a conventional receptacle with an aluminum-compatible type
(CO/ALR)(assuming several are required)
$60.00 - $120.00 ea.
Upgrade the entire house with aluminum compatible
receptacles, connectors, etc.
$1000.00 - $2000.00
Rewire the electrical outlet with reversed polarity
(assuming the electrician is already there)
$5.00 - $10.00 ea.
Replace knob & tube wiring with conventional wiring (per room)$1000.00 - $2000.00

Heating

Install mid-efficiency forced-air furnace$2500.00 - $5000.00
Install high-efficiency forced-air furnace$3500.00 - $7000.00
Install humidifier$300.00 - $600.00
Install electronic air filter$800.00 - $1600.00
Install mid-efficiency boiler$3500.00 - $7000.00
Install high-efficiency boiler$6000.00 - $12000.00
Install circulating pump$400.00 - $600.00
Install chimney liner for gas appliance$500.00 - $1000.00
Install chimney liner for oil appliance$700.00 - $1800.00
Install programmable thermostat$200.00 - $400.00
Replace indoor oil tank$1200.00 - $2500.00
Remove oil tank from basement$600.00 and up
Remove abandoned underground oil tank$10000.00 and up
Replace radiator valve$300.00 - $600.00
Add electric baseboard heater$250.00 - $500.00
Convert from hot water heating to forced-air (bungalow)$10000.00 - $20000.00
Convert from hot water heating to forced-air (two story)$15000.00 - $30000.00
Clean ductwork$300.00 - $600.00

Cooling / Heat Pumps

Add central air conditioning on the existing forced-air system$3000.00 and up
Add heat pump to forced-air system$4000.00 - $8000.00
Replace heat pump or air conditioning condenser$1200.00 - $2500.00
Install independent air conditioning system$10000.00 - $20000.00
Install ductless air conditioning system$3000.00 - $7000.00

Insulation

Insulate an open attic to modern standards$0.80 - $1.60 per sq. ft.
Blow insulation into a flat roof, cathedral ceiling, or wall cavity$2.00 - $4.00 per sq. ft.
Improve attic ventilation$30.00 - $60.00 per vent

Plumbing

Replace galvanized piping with copper
(2 storey with one bathroom)
$2500.00 - $5000.00
Replace water line to house$2000.00 and up
Replace toilet$500.00 and up
Replace basin, including faucets$750.00 and up
Replace bathtub, including ceramic tile and faucets$2500.00 and up
Install whirlpool bath, including faucets$3500.00 and up
Retile bathtub enclosure$1000.00 - $2000.00
Replace leaking shower stall pan$1000.00 - $2000.00
Rebuild tile shower stall$2500.00 - $5000.00
Replace laundry tubs$400.00 - $800.00
Remodel four-piece bathroom completely$6000.00 - $50000.00
Connect waste plumbing system to municipal sewers$5000.00 and up
Install submersible pump$1000.00 and up
Install suction or jet pump$700.00 and up
Install modest basement bathroom$6000.00 and up

Interior

Add drywall over plaster$4.00 - $8.00 per sq.ft.
Sand and refinish hardwood floors$2.00 - $4.00 per sq.ft.
Install replacement windows$40.00 - $120.00 per sq.ft.
Install storm window$200.00 - $400.00
Install masonry fireplace (if flue already roughed-in)$3000.00 and up
Install zero-clearance firelace (including chimney)$3500.00 and up
Install glass doors on fireplace$300.00 and up
Install skylight$3,000.00
Remodel kitchen completely$10,000.00 - $110000.00
Install gas fireplace$3500.00 and up

Filed Under: FYI Tagged With: Resources

How to Prepare for a Home Inspection

For the home inspector to do the best job possible, he or she will need several things to be done before they arrive to check the house over.

  • If it happens to be winter, please make sure the driveway is clear of ice and snow.  An inspector cannot see through this stuff, thereby limiting the inspection.
  • Please make sure that all utilities to the home are in operation mode.  Inspectors do not light pilot lights, turn on water mains, or main panel breakers. If these are not in regular operating mode, the inspection will be limited and less beneficial to you.
  • Make sure attic access is not obstructed in any way.  You inspector will need to get in here to check insulation, roof sheathing, trusses, etc.
  • I realize that if you are selling, you will be packing.  However, please do not have every packed box crammed into a corner in the basement, or else your inspector will not be able to see the walls and foundation.

Sample Report

  • You’ll receive a photo-documented report detailing our findings within 48 hours (depending on defects found) — See a sample report
  • Every inspection comes with a password-protected page for easy and secure access to your reports and paperwork. See a sample page here. (Password is “Example”)

Your Report

Click here or the image below to view the fully interactive report.

Your Inspection Page

Use the password “Example” to open the page.

Life Expectancy of Home Components

We would all like to believe then when we buy a home that it and all its parts will last forever. But like all things, they wear out. Here are the results of a study to determine the average life expectancy of home components done by the National Association of Home Builders and Bank of America Home Equity.

Exterior

The exterior elements of a building work together to provide a watertight skin if all the parts are doing their job.

Decks

Because they are subject to a wide range of conditions in different climates, the life expectancy of wooden decks can vary significantly. Under ideal conditions, they have a life expectancy of about 20 years.
ItemYears
Deck Planks15
Composite8 to 25
Structural Wood10 to 30

Roofing

The life of a roof depends on local weather conditions, proper building and design, material quality, and adequate maintenance. Slate, copper, and clay/concrete roofs have the longest life expectancy – over 50 years. Roofs made of asphalt shingles last for about 20 years while roofs made of fiber cement shingles have a life expectancy of about 25 years, and roofs made of wood shakes can be expected to last for about 30 years.
ROOFINGYEARS
Aluminum Coating3 to 7
Asphalt (architectural)30
Asphalt Shingles (3-tab)20
BUR (built-up roofing)30
Clay/Concrete100+
Coal and Tar30
Copper70+
EPDM (ethylene propylene diene monomer) Rubber15 to 25
Fiber Cement25
Green (vegetation-covered)5 to 40
Metal40 to 80
Modified Bitumen20
Simulated Slate10 to 35
Slate60 to 150
TPO (thermoplastic polyolefin)7 to 20
Wood25

Siding and Accessories

Outside materials typically last a lifetime. Brick, vinyl, engineered wood, stone (both natural and manufactured), and fiber cement will last as long the house exists. Exterior wood shutters are expected to last 20 years, depending on weather conditions. Gutters have a life expectancy of more than 50 years if made of copper and for 20 years if made of aluminum. Copper downspouts last 100 years or more, while aluminum ones will last 30 years.
SIDINGS, FLASHING & ACCESSORIESYEARS
Aluminum Gutters, Downspouts, Soffit and Fascia20 to 40+
Aluminum Siding25 to 40+
Asbestos Shingle100
Brick100+
Cementitious100+
Copper Downspouts100
Copper Gutters50+
Engineered Wood100+
Fiber Cement100+
Galvanized Steel Gutters/Downspouts20
Manufactured Stone100+
Stone100+
Stucco/EIFS50+
Trim25
Vinyl Gutters and Downspouts25+
Vinyl Siding60
Wood/Exterior Shutters20

Garages

Garage door openers are expected to last 10 to 15 years, and light inserts for 20 years.
GARAGESYEARS
Garage Doors20 to 25
Garage Door Openers10 to 15
SITE & LANDSCAPINGYEARS
American Red Clay100+
Asphalt Driveway15 to 20
Brick and Concrete Patio15 to 25
Clay Paving100+
Concrete Walks40 to 50
Controllers15
Gravel Walks4 to 6
Mulch1 to 2
Polyvinyl Fencing100+
Sprinkler Heads10 to 14
Underground PVC Piping60+
Valves20
Wood Chips1 to 5
Wood Fencing20
SWIMMING POOLSYEARS
Concrete Shell25+
Cover7
Diving Board10
Filter and Pump10
Interior Finish10 to 35
Pool Water Heater8
Vinyl Liner10
Waterline Tile15+
WINDOWSYEARS
Aluminum/Aluminum-Clad15 to 20
Double-Pane8 to 20
Skylights10 to 20
Vinyl/Fiberglass Windows20 to 40
Window Glazing10+
Wood30+

Interior

The interior of a home is where people spend most of their time and without a doubt the most important aspect of any home decision.

Appliances

Appliance life expectancy depends to a great extent on the use it receives. Furthermore, consumers often replace appliances long before they become worn out due to changes in styling, technology and consumer preferences.
ItemsYears
Air Conditioner (window)5 to 7
Compactor (trash)6
Dehumidifier8
Dishwasher9
Disposal (food waste)12
Dryer Vent  (plastic)5
Dryer Vent  (steel)20
Dryer (clothes)13
Exhaust Fans10
Freezer   10 to 20
Gas Oven10 to 18
Hand Dryer10 to 12
Humidifier (portable)8
Microwave Oven9
Range/Oven Hood14
Electric Range13 to 15
Gas Range   15 to 17
Refrigerator9 to 13
Swamp Cooler5 to 15
Washing Machine5 to 15
Whole-House Vacuum System20

Countertops

Natural stone countertops, which are less expensive than a few years ago, are gaining in popularity and are expected to last a lifetime. Cultured marble countertops have a life expectancy of about 20 years.
ItemsYears
Concrete50
Cultured Marble20
Natural Stone100+
Laminate20 to 30
Resin10+
Tile100+
Wood100+

Molding, Millwork and Trim

Custom millwork and stair parts will last a lifetime and are typically only upgraded for aesthetic reasons.
ItemsYears
Attic Stairs (pull-down)50
Custom Millwork100+
Pre-Built Stairs100+
Stair Parts100+
Stairs100+

Cabinetry and Storage

Kitchens are becoming larger and more elaborate, and together with the family room, modern kitchens now form the “great room.” Great rooms are not only a place to cook, but also a space where people gather to read, eat, do homework, surf the Internet and pay bills.
ItemsYears
Bathroom Cabinets50+
Closet Shelves100+
Entertainment Center/Home Office10
Garage/Laundry Cabinets70+
Kitchen Cabinets50
Medicine Cabinet25+
Modular (stock manufacturing-type)50

Plumbing, Faucets and Fixtures

The quality of plumbing fixtures varies dramatically. Kitchen sinks made of modified acrylic will last 50 years, while kitchen faucets will work properly for about 15 years. The average life of bathroom shower enclosures is 50 years. Showerheads last a lifetime, while shower doors will last about 20 years. Bath cabinets and toilets have an unlimited lifespan, but the components inside the toilet tank do require some maintenance. Whirlpool tubs will function properly for 20 to 50 years, depending on use.
ItemsYears
ABS and PVC Waste Pipe50 to 80
Accessible/ADA Handles100+
Acrylic Kitchen Sink50
Cast-Iron Bathtub100
Cast-Iron Waste Pipe (above ground)60
Cast-Iron Waste Pipe (below ground)50 to 60
Concrete Waste Pipe100+
Copper Water Lines70
Enameled Steel Kitchen Sink5 to 10+
Faucets and Spray Hose15 to 20
Fiberglass Bathtub and Shower20
Gas Lines (black steel)75
Gas Lines (flex)30
Hose Bibs20 to 30
Instant (on-demand) Water Heater10
PEX40
Plastic Water Lines75
Saunas/Steam Room15 to 20
Sewer Grinder Pump10
Shower Enclosure/Module50
Shower Doors20
Showerheads100+
(if not clogged by mineral/other deposits)
Soapstone Kitchen Sink100+
Sump Pump7
Toilet Tank Components5
Toilets, Bidets and Urinals100+
Vent Fan (ceiling)5 to 10
Vessel Sink (stone, glass, porcelain, copper)5 to 20+
Water Heater (conventional)6 to 12
Water Line (copper)50
Water Line (plastic)50
Water Softener20
Well Pump15
Whirlpool Tub20 to 50

Utility Systems

Electric and Heating, Cooling, and Radon Mitigation

Electrical and Lighting

Copper plated wiring, copper clad aluminum, and bare copper wiring are expected to last a lifetime, whereas electrical accessories and lighting controls are expected to last 10+ years. GFCIs could last 30 years, but much less if tripped regularly.
ItemsYears
Accessories10+
Arc-Fault Circuit Interrupters (AFCIs)30
Bare Copper100+
Bulbs (compact fluorescent)8,000 to 10,000+ hours
Bulbs (halogen)4,000 to 8,000+ hours
Bulbs (incandescent)1,000 to 2,000+ hours
Bulbs (LED)30,000 to 50,000+ hours
Copper-Clad Aluminum100+
Copper-Plated100+
Fixtures40
Ground-Fault Circuit Interrupters (GFCIs)up to 30
Lighting Controls30+
Residential Propane Backup Generators12
Service Panel60
Solar Panels20 to 30
Solar System Batteries3 to 12
Wind Turbine Generators20

Radon Systems

The two main components of a radon mitigation system are the duct piping and the exhaust fan. Most of the system is PVC pipe that has a life expectancy of 50 to 70 years or more.
ItemsYears
Air Exchanger15
Barometric Backdraft Damper/Fresh-Air Intake20
Caulking5 to 10
Labeling25
Manometer15
Piping50+
Radon Fan5 to 8

Heating, Ventilation, and Air Conditioning (HVAC)

Heating, ventilation, and air conditioning systems require proper and regular maintenance in order to work efficiently, but even in the best case scenarios most components of such systems only last 15 to 25 years. Furnaces on average last 15-20 years, heat pumps 16 years, and air conditioning units 10-15 years. Tankless water heaters last more than 20 years, while an electric or gas water heater has a life expectancy of about 10 years. Thermostats usually are replaced before the end of their 35-year lifespan due to technological improvements.
ItemsYears
Air Conditioner (central)7 to 15
Air Exchanger15
Attic Fan15 to 25
Boiler40
Burner10+
Ceiling Fan5 to 10
Chimney Cap (concrete)100+
Chimney Cap (metal)10 to 20
Chimney Cap (mortar)15
Chimney Flue Tile40 to 120
Condenser8 to 20
Dampers20+
Dehumidifier8
Diffusers, Grilles and Registers25
Ducting60 to 100
Electric Radiant Heater40
Evaporative Cooler15 to 25
Furnace15 to 25
Gas Fireplace15 to 25
Heat Exchanger10 to 15
Heat Pump10 to 15
Heat-Recovery Ventilator20
Hot-Water and Steam-Radiant Boiler40
Humidifier12
Induction and Fan-Coil Units10 to 15
Oil Tank (buried)10 to 15
Oil Tank (above ground, indoors)15 to 25
Oil Tank (above ground, outdoors)10 to 20
Oil Tank (Fiberglass or Plastic, indoors or out)50
Thermostats35
Ventilator7

Structure

The structure of a home is its skeleton, which includes the foundations and footings as well as the floors, walls, and roof.

Engineered Lumber

Floor and roof trusses and laminated strand lumber are expected to last a lifetime, and engineered trim is expected to last 30 years.
ItemsYears
Engineered Joists80+
Laminated Strand Lumber100+
Laminated Veneer Lumber80+
Trusses100+

Insulation and Infiltration Barriers

As long as they are not punctured, cut, or burned and are kept dry and away from UV rays, the cellulose, fiberglass, and foam used in insulation materials will last a lifetime. This is true whether the insulation was applied as loose fill, house wrap, or batts/rolls.
ItemsYears
Batts/Rolls100+
Black Paper (felt paper)15 to 30
Cellulose100+
Fiberglass100+
Foamboard100+
Housewrap80+
Liquid-Applied Membrane50
Loose-Fill100+
Rockwool100+
Wrap Tape80+

Masonry and Concrete

Masonry is one of the most enduring household components. Fireplaces, chimneys and brick veneers can last the lifetime of the home.
ItemsYears
Brick100+
Insulated Concrete Forms (hybrid block)100+
Concrete Masonry Units (CMUs)100+
Man-Made Stone25
Masonry Sealant2 to 20
Stone100+
Stucco/EIFS50+
Veneer100+

Framing and Other Structural Systems

Framing and structural systems have extended longevities: poured-concrete systems, timber frame houses and structural insulated panels will all last a lifetime. Wall panels and roof and floor trusses will similarly last a lifetime. Softwood, hardboard, and plywood last an average of 30 years, while OSB and particleboard are expected to function properly for 60 years.
ItemsYears
Log80 to 200
Poured-Concrete Systems100+
Steel100+
Structural Insulated Panels (SIPs)100+
Timber Frame100+
Flooring Underlayment25
Hardboard40
Particleboard60
Plywood100
Softwood30
Oriented Strand Board (OSB)60
Wall Panels100+

Footings and Foundations

Poured as well as concrete block footings and foundations last a lifetime, assuming they were properly built. Termite proofing of foundations will last about 12 years if the chemical barriers put in place during construction are left intact. Waterproofing with bituminous coating lasts 10 years, but if it cracks it is immediately damaged. Concrete or cast iron waste pipes are expected to last 100 years or more.
ItemsYears
Baseboard Waterproofing System50
Bituminous-Coating Waterproofing10
Concrete Block100+
Insulated Concrete Forms (ICFs)100
Permanent Wood Foundation (PWF; treated)75
Post and Pier20 to 65
Post and Tensioned Slab on Grade100+
Poured-Concrete Footings and Foundation100+
Slab on Grade (concrete)100
Wood Foundation5 to 40

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Optimal Home Inspections LLC

Call 551-261-1264

Optimal Home Inspections
2600 John F Kennedy Blvd
Jersey City, NJ 07306
North Jersey - Hudson County
(551) 261-1264

101 Dunhams Corner Rd
East Brunswick, NJ 08816
Central Jersey - Middlesex County
(551) 261-1264

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Licenses

NJ Home Inspector License Number: 24GI00176700

Certified Radon Measurement Technician: MET13906

Termite Inspector – Commercial Pesticide Applicator License Number: 61282B

Lead-Safe Certified Firm NAT-F238931-1

Associations

American Society of Home Inspectors (ASHI)
Garden State Chapter American Society of Home Inspectors
International Association of Certified Home Inspectors (InterNACHI)
NJ International Association of Certified Home Inspectors

Our Service Area

I inspect homes in Bergin, Essex, Hudson, Middlesex, Monmouth, Morris, Passaic, Somerset, and Union Counties. I inspect anywhere in New Jersey, but the counties listed here are where I work most.

Opening Hours

Monday 8 AM – 9 PM
Tuesday 8 AM – 9 PM
Wednesday 8 AM – 9 PM
Thursday 8 AM – 9 PM
Friday 8 AM – 9 PM
Saturday 8 AM – 9 PM
Sunday 8 AM – 9 PM

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