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FYI

Plumbing Glossary

September 1, 2021 by Marshal

ABS (acrylonitrile butadiene styrene):  Rigid black plastic pipe used for drain, waste and vent lines.

access cover:  Removable plate that permits access to a pipe or pipe fitting for the purpose of inspection, maintenance, repair or replacement.

access panel:  An opening in the wall or ceiling near a fixture that allows access for servicing the plumbing/electrical system.

accessible: In the opinion of the inspector, can be approached or entered safely without difficulty, fear or danger.

activate:  To turn on, supply power, or enable systems, equipment or devices to become active by normal operating controls. Examples include turning on the gas or water supply valves to the fixtures and appliances, and activating electrical breakers or fuses. 

adaptor:  A fitting that unites different types of pipe together, such as ABS to cast-iron pipe. 

adversely affect:  Constitute, or potentially constitute, a negative or destructive impact.

aerator:  An apparatus that mixes air into flowing water. It is screwed onto the end of a faucet spout to help reduce splashing.
 
air-admittance valve:  One-way valve designed to admit air into the plumbing system to protect the traps from siphonage; a device used as an alternative to vents for individual fixtures and branches in the plumbing drainage system.

air chamber:  A vertical, air-filled pipe that prevents water hammer by absorbing pressure when the water is shut off at a faucet or valve.

air gap (drainage):  The unobstructed vertical distance through free atmosphere between the outlet of the waste pipe and the flood-level rim of the receptacle into which the waste pipe is discharged.

air gap (water distribution):  The unobstructed vertical distance through free atmosphere between the lowest opening from any pipe or faucet that supplies water to a receptacle (sink, tank, fixture, or other device) and the flood-level rim of that receptacle.

anti-scald:  A valve that restricts water flow to help prevent burn injuries. See pressure-balancing valve and thermostatic valve. In some areas, plumbing codes require anti-scald valves. Speak to a professional in your area for more information and help with code requirements.

anti-siphon:  A device that prevents wastewater from being drawn back into supply lines and possibly contaminating the water supply. 

aperture:  An opening in a pipe.

appliance:  An apparatus, device, or equipment operated by use of electricity or fuel gas to produce heat, light, power, refrigeration, or air conditioning. 

approved:  Accepted by the code official, third-party agency, authority having jurisdiction (AHJ), or conforming to a standard such as ANSI.

back-pressure:  Pressure created in a non-potable system in excess of the water supply mains causing backflow.  Back-pressure can be created by mechanical means (such as a pump), by static head pressure (including an elevated tank), or by thermal expansion from a heat source (such as a water heater).

back-siphonage:  The backflow of water caused by system pressure falling below atmospheric pressure.  Atmospheric pressure supplies the force that reverses the flow.  

· backflow:  The flow of liquids in potable water distribution piping in reverse of their intended path.  There are two types of pressure conditions that cause backflow:  back-siphonage and back-pressure.

backflow preventer:  A device or means to prevent backflow into the potable water supply.

basket strainer:  Basket-shaped strainer with holes allowing water to drain while catching food or other solids; can also be closed to fill the sink with water.

bell reducer:  A fitting shaped like a bell that has one opening of a smaller diameter used to reduce the size of the pipe in the line, and the opposite opening of larger diameter.

bidet:  A toilet-like plumbing fixture designed to promote posterior hygiene; not a toilet.

· building drain:  The part of the drainage system that receives the discharge from inside the dwelling and transports it to the building’s sewer, and ends 30 inches outside the dwelling’s foundation wall.

building sewer:  That part of the drainage system that extends from the end of the building’s drain onward.

cistern:  An exterior reservoir for a home’s water supply.

cleanout:  A plug in a trap or drainpipe that provides access for the purpose of clearing an obstruction. 

closet bend:  A curved fitting that connects the closet flange to the toilet drain.

closet bolt:  A bolt whose head is fitted to a closet flange and protrudes up through a toilet base. A nut is tightened around it on the toilet base. Two (or four) bolts serve one toilet.

closet flange:  An anchoring ring secured to the floor. The base of the toilet is secured to this ring with bolts.

combustion air:  The air provided to fuel-burning equipment, including air for fuel combustion, draft hood dilution, and ventilation of the equipment enclosure.

component:  A permanently installed or attached fixture, element, or part of a system.

compression fitting:  A fitting used to join or connect pipes and conduit by causing a ring to compress against the connecting tube when tightening with a wrench.

condensate drainpipe:  Condensate drainage from air-conditioning equipment must be drained properly. This drainage pipe must be sized and designed as an indirect waste pipe, with a minimum diameter of 3/4-inch, and a water trap installed on the line.

condition:  The visible and conspicuous state of being of an object.

console lavatory:  A table-like lavatory whose basin is attached to a wall at the back and by table or piano legs at the front.

copper pipe types:  Type K has the heaviest or thickest wall and is generally used underground. It has a green stripe. Type L has a medium wall thickness and is most commonly used for water service and for general interior water piping. It has a blue stripe. Type M has a thin wall, and many codes permit its use in general water piping installation. It has a red stripe.

CPVC (chlorinated polyvinyl chloride):  Rigid plastic pipe used in water supply systems where code permits.

cross-connection: Any arrangement of plumbing devices, fittings, fixtures or pipes that connects a potable water supply directly to a non-potable source. This is an undesirable arrangement. 

cut-off valve:  A valve used to shut water off, generally located under a sink or behind a bathtub or shower access panel. It cuts off the hot and/or cold water at the source without cutting off the entire water supply throughout the house.

describe:  To report, in writing, on a system or component by its type or other observed characteristics to distinguish it from other components used for the same purpose.

determine:  To arrive at an opinion or conclusion pursuant to examination.

developed length:  The distance measured along the centerline of a pipe.

dismantle:  To open, take apart, or remove any component, device or piece that would not typically be opened, taken apart, or removed by an ordinary occupant.

disposer:  A device that grinds food sufficiently to enter a drain for disposal without clogging it.  See also food waste grinder and garbage disposal.

diverter:  A valve that has a single inlet and directs water to one of two outlets. Diverters are used with hand showers, shower risers, tub-and-shower combinations, and kitchen faucet sprayers.

drainage system:  Piping within a dwelling that conveys sewage, rainwater, or other liquid waste to a point of disposal.  It does not include the main of a public sewer system, or a private or public sewage treatment or disposal plant.  A sanitary drainage system carries sewage and excludes storm water, surface water, rainwater, and groundwater.

DWV (drainage, waste and vent system):   Refer to drainage system.

elbow:  An angled fitting that alters the direction of the line.  Also called an L, it comes in a variety of angles, from 22½ to 90 degrees.

escutcheon:  A trim piece or decorative flange that fits beneath a faucet handle to conceal the faucet stem and the hole in the fixture or wall.

evaluate:  To assess the systems, structures or components of a dwelling.

examine:  To visually look (see inspect).

fall/flow:  The proper slope or pitch of a pipe for adequate drainage.

faucet:  A device for regulating the flow of liquid from a reservoir, such as a pipe or drum.

fitting:  A general term that usually refers to faucets, shower valves, tub fillers, and various piping parts, such as tees and elbows.

fixture:  In plumbing, the devices that provide a supply of water and/or its disposal, such as sinks, tubs and toilets.

flex hose:  A flexible pipe or tube usually made of braided stainless steel, and commonly used with widespread or Roman tub faucets to provide variable centers.

flood-level rim:  The edge of the fixture or receptacle above which water will flow over and out of that fixture or receptacle.

flow rate:  The rate at which water is discharged from an outlet.  For example, the standard flow rate of a showerhead is 2½ gallons per minute.

flue:  A pipe used to exhaust smoke, gas or air.

flue lining:   Fired clay or terracotta pipe, round or square, usually made in all ordinary flue sizes and in 2-foot lengths, and used for the inner lining of a chimney with the brick or masonry work around the outside. A flue lining in a chimney runs from about a foot below the flue connection to the top of the chimney.

flush valve:  The valve separating the water in a toilet tank from the bowl.

flux:  A material applied to the surface of copper pipes and fittings to assist in the cleaning and bonding process.

· food waste grinder:  A device that grinds food sufficiently to enter a drain for disposal without clogging it.  See also disposer and garbage disposal.

function:  The action for which an item, component or system is specially fitted or used, or for which an item, component or system exists; to be in action or perform a task.

· garbage disposal: A device that grinds food sufficiently to enter a drain for disposal without clogging it.  See also disposer and food waste grinder.

gasket:  A pre-formed shape, such as a strip, grommet, etc., of rubber or rubber-like composition, used to fill and seal a joint or opening, either alone or in conjunction with the supplemental application of a sealant.

gate valve:  A valve that permits one to completely stop, but not modulate, the flow within a pipe.

GPM (gallons per minute):  The unit of measurement by which the flow rate of faucets and showerheads is measured and regulated.

groundwater:  Water from an aquifer or sub-surface water source.

hose bibb:  An outdoor faucet with hose threads on the spout, also commonly used to supply washing machines and wash basins.

hot water:  Water at a temperature equal to or greater than 110° F (43° C).

ID (inside diameter):  The diameter measurement taken from the inside of a pipe; a common method for sizing pipe.

inspect:  To examine readily accessible systems and components safely, using normal operating controls, and accessing readily accessible areas, in accordance with these Standards of Practice.

installed:  Attached or connected such that the installed item requires the use of a tool for removal.

lavatory:  Bathroom or washroom sink.

lead:  A malleable metal that was used for drainage pipes and was installed for water service entry pipes until its use was prohibited for health and safety reasons. 

main vent (or stack):  Principal vent to which branch vents may be connected. 

mixing valve:  A valve that mixes hot and cold water in order to obtain a set temperature prior to delivery.

non-vitreous:  A relative term as applied to ceramic products based on their water-absorbing characteristics; that degree of vitrification evidenced by relatively high water absorption, usually more than 10%, except for tile materials that are considered non-vitreous when water absorption exceeds 7%. 

notch:  A crosswise rabbet at the end of a board.

O-ring:  A round rubber washer or gasket that is compressed to create a watertight seal, typically in a compression fitting.

oakum:  Loose hemp or jute fiber that is impregnated with tar or pitch and used to caulk large seams and for packing plumbing pipe joints.

observe:  To visually notice.

operate:  To cause systems to function or turn on with normal operating controls.

P-trap:  A P-shaped section of drainpipe that prevents sewer odors from escaping into the home.  Water is trapped in the pipe, blocking gases from escaping into the drain.

PB (polybutylene):  Flexible plastic tubing used in water supply systems. 

pedestal lavatory:  A lavatory whose bowl is supported by a single pedestal leg.

percolation test (perc test):  A test that a soil engineer performs on earth to determine the feasibility of installing a leachfield-type sewer system on a lot; a test to determine if the soil on a proposed building lot is capable of absorbing the liquid effluent from a septic system.

plumbing boot:  A metal saddle used to strengthen a bearing wall/vertical stud(s) where a plumbing drain line has been cut through and installed.

plumbing rough:  The work performed by the plumbing contractor after the rough heat is installed. This work includes installing all plastic ABS drain and waste lines, copper water lines, bathtubs, shower pans, and gas piping to furnaces and fireplaces. Lead solder should not be used on copper piping.

plumbing stack:  A plumbing vent pipe that penetrates the roof.

plumbing trim:  The work performed by the plumbing contractor to get the home ready for the final plumbing inspection; includes installing all toilets (water closets), hot water heaters, sinks, disposal, dishwasher, and all other plumbing items, and connecting all gas pipes to combustion appliances.

plumbing waste line:  See drainage system.

polyvinyl chloride (PVC):  A polymer formed by the polymerization of vinyl chloride monomer, sometimes called vinyl; a type of white plastic pipe commonly used for DWV systems.

potable water:  Drinkable water fit for human consumption; fit to drink.

pressure-reducing valve:  A valve installed in the water service line where it enters a home to reduce the pressure of the water in the line to an acceptable and desirable level, typically 40 to 55 psi.

pressure tank:  A tank used in conjunction with a well to maintain pressure.

reducer:  A fitting that connects pipes of different sizes. 

relative humidity:  The amount of water vapor in the atmosphere, expressed as a percentage of the maximum quantity that could be present at a given temperature.  The actual amount of water vapor that can be held in space increases with the temperature.

report:  A written communication (possibly including digital images) of any material defects observed during an inspection.

residential property:  Four or fewer residential units.

residential unit:  A home; a single unit providing complete, independent living facilities for one or more persons, including permanent provisions for living, sleeping, eating, cooking and sanitation.

riser:  A vertical assembly of fittings and pipes that distributes water upward. 

rough-in:  The portion of a plumbing installation that includes running the water supply lines and drain, waste and vent lines to the proposed location of each fixture. 

run:  A complete or secondary section of pipe that extends from supply to fixture, or from drain to stack. 

sanitary drainage system:  A drainage system that carries sewage and excludes storm water, surface water, rainwater and groundwater.

sanitary fitting:  A fitting that joins the assorted pipes in a drain, waste and vent system, designed to allow solid material to pass through without clogging.

scupper:  An outlet in the wall of a building or a parapet wall for the drainage of water from a flat roof.

seat:  The fixed part of a valve. The stem assembly moves up and down against the seat to open and close the valve.

self-rimming:  A style of bathroom lavatory or kitchen sink with a finished lip or rim that installs on top of a counter without requiring a metal sink rim.

sewage:  A general term referring to the discharge from all plumbing fixtures, and primarily includes human bodily waste, and the waste associated with cleaning, washing, bathroom use, and food preparation.

sewage ejector:  A pump used to lift wastewater to a gravity sanitary sewer line, usually used in basements and other locations that are situated below the level of the side sewer.

sewer lateral:  The portion of the sanitary sewer that connects the interior wastewater lines to the main sewer lines. The side sewer is usually buried in several feet of soil and runs from the house to the sewer line. It is usually owned/operated by the sewer utility, must be maintained by the owner, and may be serviced only by utility-approved contractors; sometimes called a side sewer.

sewer stub:  The junction at the municipal sewer system where the home’s sewer line is connected.

sewer tap:  The physical connection point at which the home’s sewer line connects to the main municipal sewer line.

shut down:  Turned off, unplugged, inactive, not in service, not operational, etc.

shut-off valve:  The valve that allows the water supply to be cut off to one fixture without affecting the water supply to the entire house or building; commonly used at bathroom sinks and toilets.

side sewer:  The portion of the sanitary sewer which connects the interior waste water lines to the main sewer lines. The side sewer is usually buried in several feet of soil and runs from the house to the sewer line. It is usually owned/operated by the sewer utility, must be maintained by the owner, and may be serviced only by utility-approved contractors; sometimes called a sewer lateral.

sillcock:  An exterior water faucet; also called a hose bibb.

sleeve:  Pipe installed under the concrete driveway or sidewalk that will be used later to run sprinkler pipe or low-voltage wire.

sludge:  Term for the waste material found in sump pump pits, septic systems and gutters.

soil pipe:  Pipe that transports solid waste from toilets.

stack:  A vertical drainpipe that extends more than one floor level or story in a dwelling and carries liquid or air.

stack vent:   An extension of the soil or waste stack above the plumbing fixtures; a vent.

stem:  A small shaft or rod that projects through the faucet valve and to which the handle is installed.

stop valve:  A valve that controls the flow of water to an individual fixture, allowing the water supply to be stopped to one fixture without affecting the water supply to other fixtures. 

storm sewer:  A sewer system designed to collect storm water and which is separated from the wastewater system.

straight stop:  A shut-off valve that is installed on a supply line between the floor and the faucet or toilet. Unlike an angle stop, a straight stop does not change the direction of water flow.

sump pump:  A submersible pump in a sump pit that pumps any excess groundwater to the outside of the home.

system:  An assembly of various components that function as a whole.

tailpiece:  The tubular part of a drain that runs from the plumbing fixture to the trap.

tee (or T):  A T-shaped fitting with three openings used to create branch lines. 

trap:  A fitting or device that provides a liquid seal to prevent the emission of sewer gases without affecting the flow of sewage or wastewater through the trap.

trap seal:  The vertical distance between the crown weir and the top dip of the trap.  The crown weir is the lowest point in the cross-section of the horizontal waterway at the exit of the trap.  

tub trap:  A curved, U-shaped section of a bathtub drainpipe that holds a water seal to prevent sewer gases from entering the home through the tub’s water drain.

underground plumbing:  The plumbing drain and waste lines that are installed beneath a basement floor.

union:  A three-piece fitting that joins two sections of pipe, but allows them to be disconnected without cutting the pipe; used primarily with steel pipes, but never in a DWV system. 

unsafe:  In the inspector’s opinion, a condition of an area, system, component or procedure that is judged to be a significant risk of injury during normal, day-to-day use. The risk may be due to damage, deterioration, improper installation, or a change in accepted residential construction standards.

 vacuum breaker:  An anti-siphon device that prevents wastewater from being drawn back into supply lines, potentially contaminating the water supply. 

vent:  A passageway for conveying flue gases from fuel-burning appliances to the outside air.

vent stack:  The vertical, upper portion above the top-most fixture through which gases and odors escape the sanitary drainage system.  This pipe carries no liquids or solids.

vent system:  Piping that prevents trap siphonage and back-pressure, or equalizes the air pressure within the sanitary drainage system.

verify:  To confirm or substantiate.

waste:  Wastewater; drainage discharge that does not contain solid human waste.

waste and overflow:  A bathtub drain assembly that has an outlet at the top to remove overflow water when filling the tub, and an outlet at the bottom to remove wastewater when the tub is drained.

waste stack:  Vertical pipe that carries liquid or air through one or more stories of a dwelling.

water closet (WC):  toilet; commode. 

water tap:  The connection point at which a home’s water line connects to the main municipal water system.

wax ring job:  Removing a toilet from the floor so that a blockage can be manually removed, or to replace a degraded wax ring; replacing a wax ring on the bottom of the toilet to create a seal.

well casing:  A steel or plastic pipe that serves as the lining of a well, preventing it from caving in, and protecting groundwater from contamination by surface water.

whirlpool bathtub:  A plumbing appliance consisting of a bathtub fixture that is equipped and fitted with a circulating piping system designed to accept, circulate, agitate and discharge bathtub water for relaxation and therapeutic purposes.

wye (or Y):  A Y-shaped fitting with three openings used to create branch lines. 

yoke:  The location where a home’s water meter is installed between two copper pipes, and located in the water meter pit in the yard.

zone valve:  A device, usually placed near the heater or cooler, that controls the flow of water or steam to parts of the building.  A zone thermostat controls it.


Copyright © 2006-2021 International Association of Certified Home Inspectors, Inc.

Filed Under: FYI, Plumbing

Roof Maintenance

June 23, 2021 by Marshal

Although homeowners aren’t necessarily expected to climb on their roofs every season as part of regular home maintenance, there are some conditions that should be monitored to prevent roof damage and to help you get the longest life out of your roof-covering materials.  Certain types of damage can lead to water and pest intrusion, structural deterioration, and the escape of costly energy. 

Weathering

Weathering Shingles

Hail and storm damage, known as weathering, can weaken a roof’s surface even if you haven’t lost any shingles/shakes/slates following a storm.  It’s the most common source of environmental damage for roofs.  Strong, sustained winds can cause uplift to the edges of shingles and shakes, which can weaken their points of attachment and allow rainwater and melting snow to reach the roof’s underlayment.  Wind can also send projectiles through the air, which can damage every surface of the home’s exterior, including the roof.  You should always inspect your roof after a heavy weather event, as far as it is practical to do so without taking any undue risks, to check whether you have lost any roof-covering materials, or if any parts look particularly weathered or damaged.  A small fix now could prevent costly repairs later.

Tree Damage

Tree Damage

Tree damage results from wind-blown tree branches scraping against shingles and from the impact of falling branches blown by the wind and/or because the nearby tree has dead branches that eventually break off and fall.  Branches that overhang the roof should always be cut back to avoid damage from both abrasion and impact, and to prevent the accumulation of leaf debris on the roof, its valleys, and in the gutters, which will interfere with proper drainage and lead to pooling of rainwater and snowmelt.  Of course, it’s especially important to make sure that tree limbs near the home’s roof and exterior are a safe distance away from utility and power lines.  Tree-trimming is a type of homeowner maintenance task that should be undertaken by qualified professionals, as it can lead to accidentally cutting off the service or power from an overhead line, being electrocuted by an energized line, being struck by an unsecured tree branch, falling off the roof or a ladder, and any number of similar mishaps that the homeowner is not trained to anticipate and avoid.

Animal Damage

Animal Damage

Squirrels and raccoons (and roof rats in coastal regions) will sometimes tear through shingles and roof sheathing when they’re searching for a protected area in which to build nests and raise their young. They often attack the roof’s eaves first, especially on homes that have suffered decay to the roof sheathing due to a lack of drip edges or from problems caused by ice damming, because decayed sheathing is softer and easier to tear through.  If you hear any activity of wildlife on your roof, check inside your attic for evidence of pest intrusion, such as damaged insulation, which pests may use for nesting material.  Darkened insulation generally indicates that excess air is blowing through some hole in the structure, leading the insulation to become darkened by dirt or moisture.

Biological Growth 

Algie

Algae, moss, and lichen are types of biological growth that may be found on asphalt shingles under certain conditions. Some professionals consider this growth destructive, while others consider it merely a cosmetic problem.  Asphalt shingles may become discolored by both algae and moss, which spread by releasing airborne spores.

Almost all biological growth on shingles is related to the long-term presence of excess moisture, which is why these problems are more common in areas with significant rainfall and high relative humidity.  But even in dry climates, roofs that are shaded most of the time can develop biological growth.

What we commonly call “algae” is actually not algae, but a type of bacteria capable of photosynthesis. Algae appear as dark streaks, which are actually the dark sheaths produced by the organisms to protect themselves from the ultraviolet radiation of the sun. When environmental conditions are right, the problem can spread quickly across a roof.

Algae can feed on mineral nutrients, such as the calcium carbonate in limestone used as asphalt shingle filler. Calcium carbonate also causes asphalt to retain moisture, which also promotes algae growth, so shingles with excessive filler may be more likely to suffer more algae growth.  The rate of filler consumption is slow enough that it’s not generally considered a serious problem.

Algae attach to the shingle by secreting a substance that bonds it tightly to the surface. Growth can be difficult to remove without damaging the roof. The best method is prevention. Algae stains can sometimes be lightened in color by using special cleaners.  Power-washing and heavy scrubbing may loosen or dislodge granules. Chemicals used for cleaning shingles may damage landscaping. Also, the cleaning process makes the roof wet and slippery, so such work should be performed by a qualified professional.

Moss

Moss is a greenish plant that can grow more thickly than algae. It attaches itself to the roof through a shallow root system that can be freed from shingles fairly easily with a brush.  Moss deteriorates shingles by holding moisture against them, but this is a slow process. Moss is mostly a cosmetic issue and, like algae, can create hazardous conditions for those who climb on the roof.

Lichens are composite organisms consisting of a fungus and a photosynthetic partner, such as green or blue-green algae. Lichens bond tightly to the roof, and when they’re removed from asphalt shingles, they may take granules with them. Damage from lichen removal can resemble blistering.

Tobacco-juicing

“Tobacco-juicing” is the brownish discoloration that appears on the surface of shingles, under certain weather conditions. It’s often temporary and may have a couple of different causes. After especially long periods of intensely sunny days, damp nights, and no rain, water-soluble compounds may leach out of the asphalt from the shingles and be deposited on the surface.  Tobacco-juicing may also appear under the same weather conditions if the air is especially polluted.  Tobacco-juicing won’t harm asphalt shingles, although it may run down the roof and stain siding. Although it’s more common in the West and Southwest, it can happen anywhere that weather conditions are right.  You can spray-wash or paint the exterior of the home to remove tobacco-juicing.

Your Optimal Home inspector should investigate signs of roof damage or deterioration before you call a roofing contractor.  That way, you’ll know exactly what types of problems should be addressed before you break out the checkbook for repairs.

Filed Under: Extrerior, Roofing

15 Tools Every Homeowner Should Have (Part 3)

May 31, 2021 by Marshal

Claw Hammer: A good hammer is one of the most important tools you can own.  Use it to drive and remove nails, to pry wood loose from the house, and in combination with other tools. They come in a variety of sizes, although a 16-ounce hammer is the best all-purpose choice.

Screwdriver Set: It’s best to have four screwdrivers:  a small and large version of both a flathead and a Phillips-head screwdriver. Electrical screwdrivers are sometimes convenient, but they’re no substitute.  Manual screwdrivers can reach into more places and they’re less likely to damage the screw.

Wire Cutters: Wire cutters are pliers designed to cut wires and small nails. The side-cutting style (unlike the stronger end-cutting style) is handy, but not strong enough to cut small nails.

Respirator / Safety Mask: While paints and other coatings are now manufactured to be less toxic (and lead-free) than in previous decades, most still contain dangerous chemicals, which is why you should wear a mask to avoid accidentally inhaling their fumes. A mask should also be worn when working in dusty and dirty environments. Disposable masks usually come in packs of 10 and should be thrown away after use. Full and half-face respirators can be used to prevent the inhalation of very fine particles that ordinary facemasks will not stop, such as insulation fibers and sawdust.

Duct Tape: This tape is extremely strong and adaptable. Originally, it was widely used to make temporary repairs to many types of military equipment. Today, it’s one of the key items specified for home emergency kits because it’s water-resistant and extremely sticky.  Duct tape now comes in a variety of colors, but remember that it’s meant to be used as a temporary fix.

Filed Under: FYI

Electrical Panel Safety in Hoboken

May 24, 2021 by Marshal

All homeowners should know where their electrical panel is located.  When you open the door to it, you should find breakers that are labeled which correspond to the different rooms or areas of the home.  Breakers will sometimes trip due to a power surge or outage, and the homeowner can flip the switch to reactivate the current to the particular room or area.  Behind the breakers is the dead front, and it is this electrical component that should be removed only by a qualified electrician or inspector. 

Before touching the electrical panel to re-set a breaker, ask yourself the following questions:

  • Do I have an escape path?  Make sure that you know where you can safely turn or step if you must escape a dangerous surprise, such a bee or a spark. An unfortunately placed shovel or extension cord, for instance, can turn a quick jerk into a dangerous fall.
  • Is the floor wet?  Never touch any electrical equipment while standing on a wet surface!
  • Does the panel appear to be wet?  Check overhead for dripping water that may have condensed on a cold water pipe.  
  • Is the panel rusty?  Rust is an indication of previous wet conditions that may still exist.
  • Are there scorch marks on the panel door?  This can indicate a past or very recent arc, and further investigation should be deferred to a licensed electrician.

Here is a list of defective conditions that a homeowner may see that may be called out during an electrical inspection:

  • insufficient clearance. According to the 2008 National Electrical Code, most residential electrical panels require at least a 3-foot clearance or working space in front, 30 inches of width, and a minimum headroom clearance of 6 feet, or the height of the equipment, whichever is greater.
  • sharp-tipped panel box screws. Panel box cover screws must have blunt ends so they do not pierce the wires inside the box.
  • circuit breakers that are not properly sized.
  • oxidation or corrosion to any of the parts. Oxidized or corroded wires will increase the resistance of conductors and create the potential for arcing. 
  • damage caused by rodents. Rodents have been known to chew through wire insulation in electrical panels (and other areas), creating an unsafe condition. Rodents have been electrocuted this way, leaving an unsightly mess inside the panel.
  • evidence of electrical failures, such as burned or overheated components.
  • evidence of water entry inside the electrical panel. Moisture can corrode circuit breakers so that they won’t trip, make connections less reliable and the equipment unsafe to touch.
  • a panel manufactured by Zinsco or Federal Pacific Electric (FPE). These panels have a reputation for being problematic, and further evaluation by a qualified electrician is recommended. 

Filed Under: Electrical, FYI

Fire Safety in Jersey City

May 15, 2021 by Marshal

The National Fire Protection Association’s fire prevention program promotes the following eight tips that people of all ages and abilities can use to keep family members safe, especially during the threat of a house fire.

  1. Plan and practice your escape from fire.
    We’ve heard this advice before, but you can’t be prepared to act in an emergency if you don’t have a plan and everybody knows what that plan is.  Panic and fear can spread as quickly as a fire, so map out an escape route and a meeting place outdoors, and involve even the youngest family members so that everyone can work as a unit to make a safe escape.  If you live in a condo or apartment building, make sure you read the signs posted on your floor advising you of the locations of stairways and other exits, as well as alarm pull stations and fire extinguishers.
  2. Plan your escape around your abilities.
    Keeping a phone by your bedside will allow you to call 911 quickly, especially if the exits of your home are blocked by smoke or flames.  Keep a pair of shoes near your bed, too.  If your home or building has a fire escape, take some time to practice operating it and climbing it.
  3. Smoke alarms save lives.
    If you don’t already have permanently installed smoke alarms hard-wired into your electrical system and located outside each bedroom and on each floor, purchase units and place them in those locations.  Install them using adhesive or screws, but be careful not to touch your screwdriver to any internal wiring, which can cause an electrostatic discharge and disable them.  Also, install carbon monoxide detectors, which can protect family members from lethal poisoning even before a fire starts.
  4. Give space heaters space. 
    Whether saving on utility bills by using the furnace infrequently, or when using these portable units for spot heating, make sure you give them at least 3 feet of clearance.  Be sure to turn off and unplug them when you leave or go to bed.  Electrical appliances draw current even when they’re turned off, and a faulty unit can cause a fire that can spread through the wires in the walls at a deadly pace.
  5. If you smoke, smoke outside. 
    Not only will this keep your family members healthier and your home smelling fresher, it will minimize the chance that an errant ember from your cigarette will drop and smolder unnoticed until it causes damage.
  6. Be kitchen-wise. 
    This means monitoring what you have on the stove and keeping track of what’s baking in the oven.  Don’t cook if you’re tired or taking medication that clouds your judgment or makes you drowsy.  Being kitchen-wise also means wearing clothing that will not easily catch on the handles of pots and pans, or graze open flames or heating elements.  It also means knowing how to put out a grease fire:  water will make it spread, but salt or baking soda will extinguish it quickly, as will covering the pot or pan with a lid and turning off the stove.  Always use your cooktop’s vent fan while cooking.  Also, keep a small, all-purpose fire extinguisher in a handy place, such as under the sink.  These 3-pound lifesavers are rated “ABC” for their fire-suppressing contents. Read the instructions on these inexpensive devices when you bring them home from the store so that you can act quickly, if the time comes.
  7. Stop, drop and roll.
    Fight the urge to panic and run if your clothes catch fire because this will only accelerate its spread, since fire needs oxygen to sustain and grow.  Tamping out the fire by rolling is effective, especially since your clothes may be on fire on your back or lower body where you may not be immediately aware of it.  If ground space is limited, cover yourself with a blanket to tamp out any flames, and douse yourself with water as soon as you can.  Additionally, always stay close to the floor during a fire; heat and smoke rise, and breathable air will normally be found at the floor-level, giving you a greater chance of escape before being overcome by smoke and toxic fumes.
  8. Know your local emergency number. 
    People of all ages need to know their emergency number (usually, it’s 911).  Posting it near the phone and putting it on speed-dial will save precious moments when the ability to think clearly may be compromised.

Keep your family safe by following these simple tips!

Filed Under: FYI, Safety

15 Tools Every Homeowner Should Have (Part 2)

April 21, 2021 by Marshal

Flashlight: None of the tools you own will be of any use if you cannot visually inspect the situation. The problem—and solution—are apparent only with a good flashlight. A traditional two-battery flashlight is usually sufficient, as larger flashlights may be too unwieldy.  Of course, having backups at home (as well as in all your vehicles) is a must for emergency situations.

Tape Measure: Measuring house projects requires a tape measure—not a ruler or a yardstick. Tape measures come in many lengths, although one that is at least 25 feet is best.  Measure everything at least twice to ensure accuracy, regardless of the project.

Hacksaw: A hacksaw is useful for cutting metal objects, such as pipes, bolts and brackets. Hacksaws look thin and flimsy, but they’ll easily cut through even the hardest of metals. Blades are replaceable, so focus your purchase on a quality hacksaw frame.  Use a stable surface for cutting, and use caution, as a hacksaw injury can be painful and deep.

Torpedo Level: Only a level can be used to determine if something, such as a shelf, appliance or picture, is correctly oriented. The torpedo-style level is unique because it not only shows when an object is perfectly horizontal and vertical, but it also has a gauge that shows when an object is at a 45-degree angle. The bubble in the viewfinder must be exactly in the middle—not merely close.

Safety Glasses / Goggles: For all tasks involving a hammer, saw or a power tool, you should always wear safety glasses or goggles. They should also be worn while you mix chemicals, install insulation, and do major renovation projects involving tear-downs of building materials, such as drywall, because anything that can go airborne upon destruction can wind up in your eyes, causing irritation or injury. 

Five more tools will be covered next month!

Filed Under: FYI

15 Tools Every Homeowner Should Have (Part 1)

March 21, 2021 by Marshal

Plunger: A clogged sink or toilet is one of the most inconvenient household problems. With a plunger on hand, you can usually get the water flowing again fast. It’s best to have two plungers:  one for the sink and one for the toilet.

Combination Wrench Set: One end of a combination wrench is open and the other end is a closed loop.  Nuts and bolts are manufactured in standard and metric sizes, so it’s handy to have set of different sizes in both types. For the most leverage, always pull the wrench toward you. Also, avoid over-tightening.

Slip-Joint Pliers: Use these to grab hold of a nail, nut, bolt, and much more. These pliers are versatile because of their jaws, which feature both flat and curved areas for gripping many things. They also have a built-in slip-joint, which allows you to quickly adjust the jaw size to suit most tasks.

Adjustable Wrench: It can be somewhat awkward to use at first, but an adjustable wrench is ideal when you need wrenches of different sizes. Screw the jaws all the way closed to avoid damaging a bolt or nut.

Caulking Gun: Caulking is a quick way to seal up gaps in tile, cracks in concrete, and leaks in certain types of piping. Caulking can provide thermal insulation and control water penetration. Caulk should be applied only to areas that are clean and dry. 

Five more tools will be covered next month!

Filed Under: FYI

What Really Matters in a Home Inspection

February 19, 2021 by Marshal

Buying a home? The process can be stressful.  A home inspection is supposed to give you peace of mind, but often has the opposite effect.  You will be asked to absorb a lot of information in a short time.  This often includes a written report, a checklist, photographs, environmental reports, and what the inspector himself says during the inspection.  All this, combined with the seller’s disclosure and what you notice yourself, makes the experience even more overwhelming.  What should you do? 

Relax.  Most of your inspection will be maintenance recommendations, life expectancies for various systems and components, and minor imperfections. These are useful to know about.  However, the issues that really matter will fall into four categories: 

  1. major defects.  An example of this would be a structural failure;
  2. things that lead to major defects, such as a small roof-flashing leak, for example;
  3. things that may hinder your ability to finance, legally occupy, or insure the home; and
  4. safety hazards, such as an exposed, live buss bar at the electrical panel.

Anything in these categories should be addressed.  Often, a serious problem can be corrected inexpensively to protect both life and property (especially in categories 2 and 4).

 Most sellers are honest and are often surprised to learn of defects uncovered during an inspection.  Realize that sellers are under no obligation to repair everything mentioned in the report.  No home is perfect.  Keep things in perspective.  Do not kill your deal over things that do not matter.  It is inappropriate to demand that a seller address deferred maintenance, conditions already listed on the seller’s disclosure, or nit-picky items.

Filed Under: FYI

How to Sell Your House in 2021

February 12, 2021 by Marshal

So, you’ve evaluated your finances, thought about your lifestyle and made the big decision to sell your home. Maybe you’ve decided to downsize, or you’re moving out of the big city because you can now work remotely, or maybe you just want to live somewhere warmer and bought a house in Phoenix or a condo in San Diego. Whatever your reason, you’re ready to sell. With so many things to consider, selling a house can be an overwhelming process, and this is especially true during a pandemic. Luckily, for you, we put together a comprehensive guide on how to sell your house in 2021.

What to expect from the housing market in 2021

The coronavirus pandemic has had a major impact on our lives – from how we work to how we socialize and travel. It has also affected how we buy and sell homes. So, if you’re planning on selling your house in 2021, it’s important to understand what to expect from the housing market this year and how to best prepare. Luckily, Redfin Chief Economist Daryl Fairweather gives us her keen insights into what to look out for in 2021.

“Typically, the homebuying season starts in late spring, but this year, we expect the homebuying season to begin by late January. That’s because buyers will want to take advantage of record-low mortgage rates before they begin to rise. So if you are thinking about selling this year, you should get your home ready now. Buyers want move-in ready homes because they don’t want to worry about having contractors in and out of their new home during a pandemic. It won’t hurt to list your home early.”

Regardless of if you’re a first-time or seasoned home seller, this step-by-step guide will help you navigate how to sell your house this year.

1) Hire a home inspector

You’re probably thinking, wait, isn’t that the buyer’s responsibility? You’re not wrong. When you’ve accepted an offer, the buyer will most likely request a home inspection of their own. So, why would you have one? First, if a home inspection turns up something that’s in need of repair, wouldn’t you prefer to resolve it before entering into negotiations?

In fact, if you end up needing to make repairs that take weeks to fix, you may lose that buyer altogether. Having a home inspection is a proactive approach to getting your home ready to sell. Known as a pre-listing home inspection, you can find out the exact condition of your property, what issues and repairs need to be addressed beforehand, fix them, and then focus on the next task to sell your home fast.

Also, knowing the condition of your property will further assist you during the negotiation phase with potential buyers. As you may already be aware, buyers often use their home inspection as a way of getting concessions from sellers, such as asking you to drop your list price. If you’ve already addressed these repairs, it is less likely that anything new will come up and impact your negotiation. Before hiring an inspector, be sure to inquire about what measures they are taking to protect their customers from COVID-19. 

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2) Make repairs and small upgrades to your house

After you receive a comprehensive list of repairs you should make, it’s time to get started either making the repairs yourself or contracting out the right person. This may also be a great time to make small upgrades to your home.

Understand what today’s homebuyers are looking for

Due to the pandemic and so much time spent at home, there are certain features that are becoming a necessity for homeowners. For example, homebuyers want a home office. If you don’t have a designated office space, stage a spare bedroom or extra space as a home office. Add a desk, a plant, and a bookshelf to give it a look that will stand out on Zoom calls. Homebuyers are also looking for deluxe kitchens. This is no surprise as so many picked up cooking or baking as a new hobby in 2020. Consider upgrading your kitchen with new appliances and quartz or granite countertops. (Granite countertops are actually one of the top 10 home trends with the highest sale-to-list ratio in the U.S.)

Enhance your outdoor space

When you are selling your house, you want to find ways to make it stand out, and what better way than having the most beautiful entrance and lawn on the block. You don’t necessarily have to paint the exterior of your house to impress homebuyers. Simple things like trimming your hedges and a freshly mowed lawn will go a long way. Even freshly laid beauty bark and newly planted flowers can really make your yard pop. If these improvements seem like too much to handle while you’re trying to prepare your home to sell, look into hiring a landscaper to assist.

Brighten your home

When it comes to first impressions, a poorly lit home is at an automatic disadvantage. Darkness can make a home feel uninviting, dirty, and cramped even when it isn’t. So, before putting your home on the market, you’ll want to find simple ways to brighten your home. These can include painting your ceilings white and choosing a wall color that is brighter and more neutral, adding mirrors, replacing light bulbs, and adding additional light sources. 

3) Declutter and prep your house to sell

Decluttering and prepping your house are steps you should make a priority when learning how to sell your house. Renting storage units is becoming an increasingly popular method of decluttering one’s house before selling it. The idea is to limit the amount of stuff in your house so that potential future owners can envision themselves (and their stuff) in that space. Even removing photos is a great way to allow potential buyers to think about what they would hang on those walls. If you’re looking for a quick turnaround, bring in a professional organizer, or schedule a virtual consultation. They can help get your house in order, while also preparing you for a stress-free move. 

4) Find a real estate agent

Finding a real estate agent is easy, finding a great real estate agent can be more of a challenge. Getting referrals and reading online reviews is a great way to start narrowing down your options. You’ll want to understand what you’re looking for when hiring a real estate agent to represent your best interests. Here are some questions to consider asking any potential candidate:

  • How many clients have you served this year?
  • Has a client ever filed a complaint against you?
  • What is your fee? 
  • What services do you offer beyond negotiations and escrow?

After you decide on a real estate agent, you and your agent should come up with a plan of action for how to sell your house. It should include a timeline, from the pricing of your house and getting it listed on MLS to personal showings. You and your agent should be on the same page at all times and a plan of action will help ensure that.

5) How to price your house to sell

Now is the time to find out what price you should list your home. You can start by using online tools to help you get an idea of what your home is worth. However, you should never set your sights on a single number and expect it to happen. Market conditions change all the time and so does buyer behavior. 

Another option is to conduct an appraisal. Home appraisers are licensed professionals that will assess the value of your house based on the state of your property and overall housing market conditions. They will look at the size of your property, the interior and exterior conditions of your house, any upgrades, additions, or home improvements you’ve done, and then calculate your home’s worth based on the local market conditions.

Looking at comparables of recently sold homes in your area will also help you settle on a price. These homes should be similar in size, location, and sold within the last few months. Furthermore, you want to be strategic about your pricing. Instead of lumping the price of your house in with others in the area, strategize your pricing based on your home’s selling features. In other words, if there are three houses for sale in your area and they are priced at $350,000, you might be able to justify $360,000 or more because you have a larger lot size or maybe you’re located in a popular neighborhood.

6) Stage your home to sell 

If you don’t deem yourself a design-minded individual, consider hiring a professional home stager to help. Given the current climate, however, not everyone necessarily wants a professional stager to enter their house. Luckily, many staging services offer virtual consultations as a popular alternative. Regardless if you work with a professional or handle the staging on your own, here is a list of things to consider that will really help you make your house shine:

  • Clear the clutter: You may have already transferred most of your belongings to a storage unit by this point. Now is the time to focus on cleaning up the clutter on countertops and tables. Put away newspapers, mail, or magazines, or if you have children, help them pick up their toys.
  • Deep clean your house: Nothing turns off buyers more than an unclean bathroom. That is also true for the rest of your house. Now more than ever is the time to wash your windows, windowsills, and scrub your grimy glass shower doors.
  • Add white accents: White accents such as flowers or towels in the bathroom create a sense of welcome cleanliness.
  • Arrange furniture: You don’t have to necessarily rent furniture to stage your home. You can most likely use what you have. The key is to limit the number of furniture pieces in any one room. Then arrange them in a way that’s inviting to people as they enter the room.
  • Bring in light: Think about removing your curtains or keeping them drawn back to allow as much light into your house as possible. If you have rather large elaborate curtains, consider storing them away until you get to your next home.
  • Highlight your floors: Floors are a key feature homebuyers are looking at, especially if you have wood floors. Show them off by removing any rugs or unneeded furniture so more of your flooring can be seen. If you have wood floors, think about polishing them to really make them pop.
  • Organize all closets and drawers: Homebuyers touring your home will most likely look in your closets to determine space and, frankly, to see if their stuff will fit in there. They will also likely open kitchen drawers and cabinets as well, so make sure everything is nice and tidy.
  • Dust: Concentrate on all the areas that you’ve most likely have turned a blind eye to for some time, like ceiling fans, baseboards, on top of doorways, appliances, etc.

7) Get professional photos taken of your home

Nothing sells a house faster than professional photos. This is especially true now, as many prospective buyers are conducting their home search completely online due to the coronavirus. Put yourself in the buyer’s shoes. They are searching online, looking at every home that comes up for sale within their filtered interests the moment it’s listed. If your house is represented online by poorly shot photography, your listing will see very little traffic. Not to mention, it’s widely observed that houses with professionally shot photos, on average, sell for more money than other listings.

When planning how to sell your house, you should also strongly consider having your home digitally scanned for an online 3D tour. These 3D walkthroughs, where you point and click through a home from your computer, are more than 5 times as popular now as they were before the pandemic. And with more buyers buying from out-of-town, a 3D walkthrough can help out-of-town buyers decide whether to make an offer on your home before they have a chance to see it in person. 

Lastly, aerial photography that shows a bird’s eye view of one’s home and its surrounding area has become increasingly popular with buyers looking online. Many agencies include some or all of these services as a component of their overall services to you as a seller. Just remember, the better you represent your house online, the faster it will sell.

8) List your home to sell

Your real estate agent will list your home online on MLS (Multiple Listing Service), in order for it to start showing up on real estate websites for potential buyers. Also, don’t limit the marketing of your house to your real estate agent and online search. Market your house yourself. Spread the word through your family and friends. Share your listing on social media and send out emails asking people to share your listing with others. 

9) Have a plan in case your home doesn’t sell quick enough

You and your real estate agent should have already gone over this beforehand, but not every house sells quickly. There are many factors at play and depending on the condition of the housing market for your area, your real estate agent may have to use some other strategies in their arsenal to get your house sold. If it’s lowering the price of your home or holding more tours, you’ll want to agree on what the next steps should be in case your house isn’t seeing any offers.

10) Negotiate the sale price of your home

One thing to consider is that the buyer is trying to get the absolute best price they can, while you’re doing the exact same. There will be multiple factors to consider, as each home sold and purchased is different. For example, if it’s a buyer’s market, that means the buyer has the upper hand because there are multiple listings with fewer offers being made. However, that doesn’t necessarily mean you have to make huge concessions in order to sell your house.

This is where your agent really steps up. They will help you navigate the negotiation process, and will give you their advice on how to proceed when offers are being made. Luckily, you interviewed and hired the right agent, so you know they have your best interests in mind.

11) Sign and close

You and your agent have been working towards this moment. You’ve agreed on a price with the buyers, all inspections and appraisals of your home have been completed, and you are now ready to sign the papers and close. To comply with social distancing guidelines, some states are now allowing completely electronic closings, called eClosings. Once you’ve signed all of the paperwork – congratulations, you’ve sold your house! 

Originally published by Redfin

Filed Under: FYI

Home Inspection Items That Kill Sales

December 17, 2020 by Marshal

Whether you are buying or selling a home the home inspection is a major hurdle to clear. A house inspection can be exhausting for both parties and the real estate agents. For almost every home inspection there is probably some kind of problem. Most of the time these issues are minor and fairly simple to negotiate.

Unfortunately, some problems can be deal breakers that make home buyers run away.

As a seller, it is important for you do be cognizant of the items that are likely to give buyers pause in moving forward with a purchase. If you can discover and take care of these issues before a buyer has a home inspection that is a major plus.

Preparation for a buyer’s home inspection is of the utmost importance. It can be the difference between selling a home or putting it back on the market. Lots of smart home sellers will spend the money on a pre-listing home inspection. More often than not it is well worth the money to find out your homes condition ahead of time.

If you have any doubt as to the condition of your property, these are the potential home inspection deal breakers you’ll want to address. If you are buying a home, these are some of the potential problems you’ll want to be on the lookout for.

1. Pests and Bugs

In case a house inspector finds termites, you might need to rethink your purchase. Termites feed on the structure of your house, leaving it feeble and unsteady under certain circumstances. But there are a lot of methods to use to get rid of termites.

Ask a specialist to look at the home and treat it is vital. Truth be told, a yearly termite inspection can decrease the risk of danger and keep you calm.

2. Wrong Wiring

The wiring status of a house ought to never be taken lightly. The inspector checks the house wiring for un-grounded outlets, lack of GFCI protection, over-burden circuit breakers, double tapping and general work of poor quality.

Home inspectors will also look for dated types of electrical components such as knob and tube and aluminum wiring, neither of which is used in modern day construction.

Aluminum wiring was mostly used during the 1960s or 1970s and it is usually one of the deal breakers. Aluminum wiring can prompt poor or defective connections, which can lead to recurring flickering or incessant turning off of light, hot switch plates and sockets, burning smell, or power failure taken without triggering a circuit breaker.

House wiring can cost between $ 6,000 and $15,000, relying on the size of the house and the simplicity with which an electrician can get to and supplant the old wiring.

3. Problems with the Roof

A typical issue is a roof leak brought about by damaged shingles. Fixing shingles or flashing can be a simple and cheap repair. However, if the issue persists very long, it implies a lot of work and cash to spend. Any kind of water penetration into the home has the potential to cause mold.

If the roof is past it’s useful life that is another story. Roofs can be fairly expensive to replace, especially if the home is larger. The roof may or may not be a solid investment depending on how long you expect to be in the house.

If your going to be selling within the next year or two, you may not get your money back.

4. Foundation Problems

Your foundation is the stronghold of the house. As with a lot of things in life, in case the foundation is not solid, then what is above can suddenly collapse. If you discover major foundation problems with the house, which would be a great endeavor to fix, this will presumably be a deal-breaker.

Most home buyers do not want to take on major structural issues with a property. Foundation cracks can be quite common. Checking to make sure they do not extend past a certain size is important. Some cracks are part of normal settling others are not. It is important to distinguish between the two.

5. Lead Paint

If the home you are buying or selling was built before 1978, you need to be aware the potential for lead paint exists. Buyers and sellers must follow the lead paint law. It is vital for each party to understand their obligations under the law.

Every real estate agent needs to be well versed in understanding the federal lead paint law – it is mandatory.

6. Bad Pipes

Low water pressure is an indication that the flow of water is narrow. This mostly happens because of fragmented internal plumbing or low water volume from the streets. Stains found below sinks and roofs indicate leaks that require fixing.

Inspect around the toilet, dishwasher, and ice maker if the floor isn’t soft because of breaks. Finally, ask your inspector to check if the house isn’t equipped with polybutylene (PB) pipes (utilized in the years the 70s or 80s). This kind of pipe can leak all of a sudden and cause huge damage. Fixing or replacing water pipes can cost between $ 5,000 and $ 50,000.

7. Faulty Well

When you are buying or selling a home there aren’t many more important things than having a good water supply. Buyers need to be aware of two things when it comes to checking a well. You want both the water quality and quantity to pass local and EPA standards.

It is imperative to check both when buying a home. Lots of home buyers don’t check the well because they have lived with city water and don’t know any better. An excellent real estate agent should point out the necessity to check on the water supply.

8. Radon

It has been reported that there are about 20,000 deaths which occur every year from radon, which is a drab, chemically nonreactive inert gas. The most widely recognized courses of exposure in people are through inhalation and ingestion.

High radon levels have been found in all states. High levels of radon, however are very sporadic. One home might test high and the next door neighbor not so much. Getting your house inspected for radon is the best way to see whether you will pass the suggested EPA limit. This is crucial as the symptoms of radon exposure take a very long time to emerge.

Request a professional to review before signing off on your new house.

9. Flood Areas

The flood areas have turned out to be progressively critical! You don’t need to purchase a house close to a beach or lake to be in a flood zone. Flooding not only leads to problems in your house, but it can also as well cause problems inside your house too. You should also consider the increasing trouble of selling your house in the near future.

When buying a home it is always important to ask if the home is in a flood plain. If it is expect to pay flood insurance which can be very costly.

10. Mold

This is one of the things a homeowner never wishes not to find in a house. Black mold is harmful and negatively impacts the health of all people staying in the house. It develops in areas that are flooded or have had significant exposure to water.

It also has an awful smell. It may be found in wet plasterboard, basement walls, and floors. The detection of dark mold needs the evacuation of every affected material and fixing the source of the problem.

11. Septic System

One of the most costly areas of a home is the replacement of a septic system. More than likely a seller will be required to have their septic system pass inspection in order for a buyer to get a loan on the property.

Replacing a septic system can run anywhere from ten thousand up to $50,000 or more depending on soils and water table. The septic system is the last place you’ll want to find a problem. It is almost always a home inspection deal breaker because of the time involved in getting it corrected.

Final Thoughts

When buying a home it is always advisable to completely understand the home inspection process. If the inspection of your house has structural or mechanical problems, it is advisable to get them fixed. Passing off these issues to a buyer moving forward is going to be challenging to say the least. Most buyers have minimum expectations on what they are willing to accept.

For buyers it can be heartbreaking to lose a house that you have already pictured yourself living in. Nonetheless, if after a home inspection you discover significant fixes that you can’t deal with, the seller won’t acknowledge the same – You may need to simply pull back the home search and reopen it.

Real Estate agents call these things deal breakers for a reason. Lots of people don’t want to deal with such problems when buying a house.

Note: This article was originally posted in the ASHI (American Society of Home Inspectors) website found here and reposted here for your convenience. Written by Bill Gassett and posted on 12/15/2020.

Filed Under: FYI

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Optimal Home Inspections LLC

Call 551-261-1264

Optimal Home Inspections
2600 John F Kennedy Blvd
Jersey City, NJ 07306
North Jersey - Hudson County
(551) 261-1264

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East Brunswick, NJ 08816
Central Jersey - Middlesex County
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NJ Home Inspector License Number: 24GI00176700

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I inspect homes in Bergin, Essex, Hudson, Middlesex, Monmouth, Morris, Passaic, Somerset, and Union Counties. I inspect anywhere in New Jersey, but the counties listed here are where I work most.

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