Optimal Home Inspections

Most Recommended Home Inspector in NJ

FYI

Bathtub and Showers

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Bathtubs

Bathtubs are made from many different types of materials, including enameled cast-iron, porcelain-enameled steel, and plastic. Plastic tubs are made from materials including ABS, PVC, fiberglass, fiberglass-reinforced plastic, acrylic, and cultured-marble acrylic. Bathtubs that are equipped with shower fixtures should be manufactured with slip-resistant surfaces. Bathtubs should have a drainage outlet (tailpiece) with a minimum diameter of 1-1/2 inches. Every tub should be equipped with a stopper. The bathtub should have an overflow outlet installed. The overflow prevents flooding if the tub is being filled while unattended, and prevents overflow of the water when a person enters a tub that is full.

Fire-Resistance

Bathtubs made of plastic are tested for fire ignition. They are made with fire-resistant chemicals to reduce their fuel contribution in a house fire or an accidental exposure to a plumber’s torch.

Large Bathtub Loads

Some bathtubs are so large that they can accommodate more than one person at a time. These larger bathtubs may need special and additional structural support underneath them to adequately support the load.
A 3×4-foot bathtub may have a capacity to hold 200 gallons or more. The weight of the bathtub, water, and occupants may total over 1 ton, considering:

200 pounds for the bathtub
+ 1,600 pounds of water 
+ 350 pounds for two people
= 2,150 pounds

A very large tub may cause structural problems because live-loading for a typical residential home is 40 pounds per square foot. The live load for a 3×4-foot occupied tub may be assumed to be only 480 pounds but may weigh over 2,000 pounds while it is in use.

Maintenance Tips

The homeowner should make sure that the tub is free of cracks, rust and other staining, and that all edges, gaps and surrounding tile are adequately caulked to ensure that moisture cannot leach behind the tile work and drywall, which can lead to leaks and structural damage behind walls that won’t be evident until the issue becomes extensive and expensive to fix.

Showers

Plastic, pre-fabricated shower units are constructed of various synthetic materials, including ABS, PVC, gel-coated fiberglass-reinforced plastic, cultured marble, cast-filled fiberglass, polyester, cultured marble acrylic, and acrylic. These shower units are impregnated with fire-retardant chemicals to reduce the fuel contribution during a fire and protect against an accidental burn by a plumber’s torch.

The showerhead height is not typically regulated by building codes, but the head is commonly installed 70 to 80 inches above the shower floor.

Shower Water Pipes

Water-supply pipes from the shower valve to the showerhead outlet — referred to as the shower riser pipes — whether exposed or not, must be firmly attached to a structural component to prevent the pipes from leaking caused by stress fractures or joint failures. Movement of the showerhead may move the riser piping, possibly causing failure of the piping. The risers must be firmly secured.

The common practice for installing the riser pipe is to place a drop-ear elbow at the top of the riser pipe. The elbow has two wing connections. They can be screwed to a structural backing board, such as a 2×4. A pipe strap can be used instead of a drop-ear elbow. When the riser is exposed, the manufacturer will typically provide a strap or attachment device to match the finish of the fixture and pipe. The strap or attachment device should be firmly secured to a structural component.

Shower Outlets

The waste outlet for a shower should have a minimum diameter of 1-1/2 inches. The shower outlet should have a strainer that is at least 3 inches in diameter, with dimensional openings in the strainer of at least a 1/4-inch. The strainer should be removable.

Shower Area

A shower compartment should have an interior cross-sectional area of at least 900 square inches. This will allow an average-sized adult to clean the lower body while bending over. A shower that’s any smaller would be inadequately sized. Shower compartments should be at least 30 inches in minimum dimension. This measurement is based on the movement of an adult body inside a shower and measured from the finished interior dimension of the compartment, excluding fixture valves, showerheads, soap dishes, and grab bars. There are exceptions for showers having fold-down seats, and those with compartments at least 25 inches wide and 1,300 square inches in cross-sectional area.

The exception allows for a shower with one dimension being 25 inches, provided the compartment has at least 1,300 square inches of cross-sectional area. This is useful to contractors and DIY homeowners who remove an old bathtub and install a standup shower fixture in the same space.

Shower Walls

Showers and bathtubs with installed shower heads should be finished with a non-absorbent surface that shall extend to a height of not less than 6 feet above the floor level of the room or 70 inches above the shower floor. It should be constructed of smooth, corrosion-resistant, and non-absorbent materials to protect the structural components from moisture damage. The gypsum or cement wallboard behind ceramic tiles of a shower wall should be water-resistant. The water-resistant material is not required in the rest of the bathroom, although it is a common practice to use water-resistant gypsum wallboard in other areas of the bathroom because of the moisture levels.

Shower Access and Egress Opening

Many injuries in a home are related to accidents in the bathtub or shower. The minimum opening requirements for access and egress allows an adult enough room to safely step into and exit the shower area without having to twist or turn through a narrow opening. The shower opening (or access and egress opening) should be at least 22 inches of clear and unobstructed finish width. The 22-inch width is based on the approximate shoulder width of an average-sized adult and provides comfortable access to service the valves, showerheads, and drain. It allows for emergency response and rescue access, and emergency egress.

Shower Floors

The shower floor surface must be watertight with smooth, corrosion-resistant, non-absorbent, waterproof materials. Joints between the floor and walls of the shower must be sealed or flashed to prevent water penetration. Ideally, there should be some type of slip-resistant floor surface. The shower floor structure needs proper support by a smooth and structurally sound base. The base of the shower floor should be designed to support both dead (structural) and live (people and water) loads.

Shower pans and liners are installed under and around showers to prevent moisture intrusion from getting into the structural supports under and behind the shower enclosure. They must meet specific standards for material, installation, and size in order to support both dead and live loads.

Shower Glazing

Glass doors enclosing the shower should be made of safety glazing. If a window is installed in the shower, the window should be made of safety glazing to provide protection. If a person slips or falls inside the shower, s/he may be seriously injured by the broken glass if the glass is not made of safety glazing. The safety glazing should be correctly labeled by being permanently marked in a corner, legible and visible after installation, and indoor applications should be marked “indoor use only.”

Maintenance Tips

Similar to other bathroom fixtures, the homeowner should make sure that the shower is free of cracks, rust, and other staining, and that all edges, gaps, and surrounding tile are adequately caulked to ensure that moisture cannot leach behind the tile work and drywall, which can lead to leaks and structural damage behind walls that won’t be evident until the issue becomes extensive and expensive to fix. Additionally, if the glazing for the showers doors is damaged, it should be replaced, as cracked glazing can break without notice and cause serious injuries.

Bathroom Sinks (Lavatories)

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Lavatories

A lavatory is a washbasin or sink located in a bathroom or washroom. “Lavatory” means washbasin or sink, and is derived from the Latin word lavatorium, which means washing vessel, and the French word laver, meaning “to wash.” Lavatories come in a variety of shapes and sizes. They are available in enameled cast-iron, vitreous china, stainless steel, porcelain-enameled formed steel, plastic, and non-vitreous ceramic. They can be a wall-mounted, hanger-mounted, under-mounted, pedestal, rimmed, and above-center basin types.

Countertops integrated with lavatories are constructed of a variety of materials, including ABS, PVC, gel-coated fiberglass-reinforced plastic, acrylic, polyester, and cultured marble. Plastic vanity tops should be impregnated with fire-resistant chemicals to reduce the fuel contribution of the lavatory during a house fire or the accidental fire from a plumber’s torch. They are also made to resist the effect of a burning cigarette left unattended on the vanity top.

Lavatories should have a waste outlet of at least 1-1/4 inches in diameter. Each lavatory must have a strainer, a pop-up stopper, a crossbar, or other mechanisms to prevent items such as rings, toothbrushes, and cosmetic items from dropping into the drain.

Lavatory Overflows

Former standards required lavatories to have an overflow, but that is no longer the case. An overflow is now an option of the manufacturer. The reason for not requiring an overflow at a lavatory is because of the lack of use of the overflow, which can cause bacterial and micro-organism growth.

Where a lavatory does have an overflow installed, the cross-sectional area of the overflow should be a minimum of 1-1/8 inches; anything larger can promote bacterial and micro-organism growth. The overflow should be able to prevent overflowing of the sink for a minimum of five minutes when tested from the onset of water flowing into the overflow’s opening.

Maintenance Tips

There are many different designs of lavatories, including artisanal styles that sit upon the vanity, rather than being dropped into a recessed cavity in the vanity or countertop.  Regardless of the style or whether it includes an overflow opening, the washbasin should be securely attached to the vanity, be free of cracks and other defects, and have gaps that are properly caulked to prevent moisture buildup, which can lead to unsanitary conditions, including mold growth.

Toilets and Bidets

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A water closet in the U.S. is commonly referred to as a toilet.  The term “water closet” originates from the time when plumbing was brought indoors, and defecation took place in a small, closet-size room with a pot.

Toilet Styles 

There are three styles of water closets: close-coupled, one-piece, and flushometer valve. The most common is the close-coupled water closet, which has a bowl and separate gravity-type tank or flushometer tank that is supported by the bowl. A one-piece water closet is constructed with the gravity-type tank or flushometer tank and bowl as one integral unit. A flushometer-valve water closet is a bowl with a flushometer valve. Water closet bowls come in six styles: blow-out, siphon jet, reverse trap, wash-down, siphon vortex, and siphon wash.

  • Close-coupled toilet
  • One-piece toilet
  • Flushometer valve toilet

Toilet Measurements

A water closet has a water consumption limit of a maximum average of 1.6 gallons of water per flush. The general bowl rim height above the floor is between 14 and 15 inches.  Other rim heights may be needed for water closets used by children (10 inches), and the elderly and persons with physical disabilities (18 inches).  Elongated water closet bowls are required for public or employee use but are often installed in homes.  An elongated bowl is 2 inches longer than a regular bowl.  

Defects at Toilets

The water closet (toilet) may have a clogged drain. While flushing the toilet, watch the flush performance, and use toilet paper as part of this test. There should be no excessive odors around the water closet. Check the flooring around the toilet with your foot. Using the side of your leg, check to see if the toilet is securely attached to the floor. If it wobbles, the screws at the base may be loose, or the wax ring that adheres the fixture to the waste pipe may be worn or of the wrong size. If so, it should be replaced. Look for dampness around the bottom of the toilet base. Toilets sometimes run continuously. Check for a water shut-off valve. Some toilets are mistakenly connected to the hot water system. Tank lids are often cracked. Any defective parts should be immediately replaced to avoid backup flooding.

Bidets

Bidet

Common in much of Europe and Asia, bidets are toilet-like plumbing fixtures designed to promote posterior hygiene. They’re becoming increasingly common in North America. Contrary to popular belief, a bidet is not an alternative to a toilet. Its purpose is as a hygiene device following toilet use. However, some bidets have been incorporated into toilets, especially in bathrooms that are not large enough for both fixtures.

Bidets, like toilets, are typically made from porcelain and contain a deep recess within a wide rim. They emit an arc of clean water from a nozzle that may be located beneath the rear of the rim or deep within the fixture’s cavity. Users can sit on the rim (or seat, if it has one), or straddle the fixture and face in either direction. He or she can decide which direction to face based on the water jet configuration and the part of their body that needs cleaning. Water temperature and pressure can be adjusted with knobs in order to arrive at the desired settings.

Some bidets come with built-in air dryers. Toilet paper can be used for this purpose if no dryer is available. The bidet can be rinsed after use to keep it clean.

Benefits

  • People who suffer from hemorrhoids, irritable bowel syndrome, or have recently had surgery can find relief with the more gentle water flow of a bidet.
  • As the bidet requires less operator mobility, they are easier to use for the elderly, disabled and obese.
  • Many believe that the use of bidets is more hygienic and effective than toilet paper.

Safety Precautions

  • Users should familiarize themselves with the rate of temperature and pressure changes that occur when they adjust the controls. Sensitive regions can be burned if the user is not careful, and high water pressure can be irritating.
  • Users should know in advance the direction of the water arc and position themselves accordingly. The spray can be powerful enough to strike a person in the face.

Water Heaters

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A water heater is an appliance that heats potable water and supplies heated water to the home’s plumbing distribution system.  Most tanks are insulated steel cylinders with an enamel coating on the inner surface. They are referred to as glass-lined tanks. The lining helps prevent corrosion.  A water heater can literally explode if it’s not installed properly. There are standards that regulate the materials, design, and installation of water heaters and their related safety devices. Certification marks on them from approved agencies indicate compliance with approved standards.

Conventional residential water heaters have life expectancies that vary greatly.  The typical water heater has a lifespan of about 10 years, based on the following factors: correct installation; usage volume; construction quality; and maintenance.

Correct Installation

A water heater should generally be installed upright. Installing a water heater on its side will place structural stress on it due to inadequate support for the heater and its pipes, and may cause premature failure.  Water heaters should be installed in well-ventilated areas — not just for fire safety requirements and nitrous-oxide buildup, but also because poor ventilation can shorten its lifespan.  A water heater should also not be placed in an area susceptible to flood damage. Water can rust out the exterior and pipes, decreasing the life expectancy and efficiency of the unit.  A water heater is best placed in an easily accessible area for maintenance.  It should also be readily visible for fire and health-hazard requirements.

Usage

The life expectancy of the water heater depends a great deal on the volume of water used. Using large quantities of water means that the water heater will have to work harder to heat the water. In addition, the greater the volume of water, the greater the corrosive effect of the water will be on the tank materials, pipes, etc.

Construction Quality

As with most household systems and components, you get what you pay for in a water heater. Cheaper models will generally have a shorter lifespan, while more expensive models will generally last longer. A good indication of a water heater’s construction quality is its warranty.  Longer warranties naturally imply sound construction. According to a 2007 Consumer Report that deconstructed 18 different models of water heaters, it was determined that models with longer warranties were of superior manufacturing quality, with nine- and 12-year models typically having larger or higher-wattage heating elements, as well as thicker insulation. Models with larger heating elements have much better resistance to mineral buildup or scum. 

Pay attention to the model’s features.  For example, porcelain casing provides an additional layer of protection against rusting, and a greater level of heat insulation. Some models come with a self-cleaning feature that flushes the pipes of mineral deposit buildup, which can affect the unit’s lifespan.  Models with larger or thicker anodes are better equipped to fight corrosion.

Maintenance and Parts Replacement

The hardness of the water is another consideration when looking at estimating the lifespan of a water heater.  In areas where there is a higher mineral content to the water, water heaters have shorter a lifespan than in other areas, as mineral buildup reduces the units’ efficiency. Even in areas where the water is softer, however, some mineral deposition is bound to occur.  A way to counteract this mineral buildup is to periodically flush the water heater system, which not only removes some of the buildup but, in tank systems, the process heats the water in the tank. Higher-end models typically come equipped with a self-flushing feature.  In models for which manual flushing is required, it is important not to damage the water heater valve, which is usually made of plastic and is easy to break.

Although an older model may appear to be well-maintained, a question arises:  Is the maintenance worth it? Warranties often exclude labor costs, so a good rule to follow is that if the total repair cost per year is greater than 10% of the cost of buying and installing a new water heater, it is probably not worth replacing any damaged parts.

Plumbing Glossary

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ABS (acrylonitrile butadiene styrene):  Rigid black plastic pipe used for drain, waste and vent lines.

access cover:  Removable plate that permits access to a pipe or pipe fitting for the purpose of inspection, maintenance, repair or replacement.

access panel:  An opening in the wall or ceiling near a fixture that allows access for servicing the plumbing/electrical system.

accessible: In the opinion of the inspector, can be approached or entered safely without difficulty, fear or danger.

activate:  To turn on, supply power, or enable systems, equipment or devices to become active by normal operating controls. Examples include turning on the gas or water supply valves to the fixtures and appliances, and activating electrical breakers or fuses. 

adaptor:  A fitting that unites different types of pipe together, such as ABS to cast-iron pipe. 

adversely affect:  Constitute, or potentially constitute, a negative or destructive impact.

aerator:  An apparatus that mixes air into flowing water. It is screwed onto the end of a faucet spout to help reduce splashing.
 
air-admittance valve:  One-way valve designed to admit air into the plumbing system to protect the traps from siphonage; a device used as an alternative to vents for individual fixtures and branches in the plumbing drainage system.

air chamber:  A vertical, air-filled pipe that prevents water hammer by absorbing pressure when the water is shut off at a faucet or valve.

air gap (drainage):  The unobstructed vertical distance through free atmosphere between the outlet of the waste pipe and the flood-level rim of the receptacle into which the waste pipe is discharged.

air gap (water distribution):  The unobstructed vertical distance through free atmosphere between the lowest opening from any pipe or faucet that supplies water to a receptacle (sink, tank, fixture, or other device) and the flood-level rim of that receptacle.

anti-scald:  A valve that restricts water flow to help prevent burn injuries. See pressure-balancing valve and thermostatic valve. In some areas, plumbing codes require anti-scald valves. Speak to a professional in your area for more information and help with code requirements.

anti-siphon:  A device that prevents wastewater from being drawn back into supply lines and possibly contaminating the water supply. 

aperture:  An opening in a pipe.

appliance:  An apparatus, device, or equipment operated by use of electricity or fuel gas to produce heat, light, power, refrigeration, or air conditioning. 

approved:  Accepted by the code official, third-party agency, authority having jurisdiction (AHJ), or conforming to a standard such as ANSI.

back-pressure:  Pressure created in a non-potable system in excess of the water supply mains causing backflow.  Back-pressure can be created by mechanical means (such as a pump), by static head pressure (including an elevated tank), or by thermal expansion from a heat source (such as a water heater).

back-siphonage:  The backflow of water caused by system pressure falling below atmospheric pressure.  Atmospheric pressure supplies the force that reverses the flow.  

· backflow:  The flow of liquids in potable water distribution piping in reverse of their intended path.  There are two types of pressure conditions that cause backflow:  back-siphonage and back-pressure.

backflow preventer:  A device or means to prevent backflow into the potable water supply.

basket strainer:  Basket-shaped strainer with holes allowing water to drain while catching food or other solids; can also be closed to fill the sink with water.

bell reducer:  A fitting shaped like a bell that has one opening of a smaller diameter used to reduce the size of the pipe in the line, and the opposite opening of larger diameter.

bidet:  A toilet-like plumbing fixture designed to promote posterior hygiene; not a toilet.

· building drain:  The part of the drainage system that receives the discharge from inside the dwelling and transports it to the building’s sewer, and ends 30 inches outside the dwelling’s foundation wall.

building sewer:  That part of the drainage system that extends from the end of the building’s drain onward.

cistern:  An exterior reservoir for a home’s water supply.

cleanout:  A plug in a trap or drainpipe that provides access for the purpose of clearing an obstruction. 

closet bend:  A curved fitting that connects the closet flange to the toilet drain.

closet bolt:  A bolt whose head is fitted to a closet flange and protrudes up through a toilet base. A nut is tightened around it on the toilet base. Two (or four) bolts serve one toilet.

closet flange:  An anchoring ring secured to the floor. The base of the toilet is secured to this ring with bolts.

combustion air:  The air provided to fuel-burning equipment, including air for fuel combustion, draft hood dilution, and ventilation of the equipment enclosure.

component:  A permanently installed or attached fixture, element, or part of a system.

compression fitting:  A fitting used to join or connect pipes and conduit by causing a ring to compress against the connecting tube when tightening with a wrench.

condensate drainpipe:  Condensate drainage from air-conditioning equipment must be drained properly. This drainage pipe must be sized and designed as an indirect waste pipe, with a minimum diameter of 3/4-inch, and a water trap installed on the line.

condition:  The visible and conspicuous state of being of an object.

console lavatory:  A table-like lavatory whose basin is attached to a wall at the back and by table or piano legs at the front.

copper pipe types:  Type K has the heaviest or thickest wall and is generally used underground. It has a green stripe. Type L has a medium wall thickness and is most commonly used for water service and for general interior water piping. It has a blue stripe. Type M has a thin wall, and many codes permit its use in general water piping installation. It has a red stripe.

CPVC (chlorinated polyvinyl chloride):  Rigid plastic pipe used in water supply systems where code permits.

cross-connection: Any arrangement of plumbing devices, fittings, fixtures or pipes that connects a potable water supply directly to a non-potable source. This is an undesirable arrangement. 

cut-off valve:  A valve used to shut water off, generally located under a sink or behind a bathtub or shower access panel. It cuts off the hot and/or cold water at the source without cutting off the entire water supply throughout the house.

describe:  To report, in writing, on a system or component by its type or other observed characteristics to distinguish it from other components used for the same purpose.

determine:  To arrive at an opinion or conclusion pursuant to examination.

developed length:  The distance measured along the centerline of a pipe.

dismantle:  To open, take apart, or remove any component, device or piece that would not typically be opened, taken apart, or removed by an ordinary occupant.

disposer:  A device that grinds food sufficiently to enter a drain for disposal without clogging it.  See also food waste grinder and garbage disposal.

diverter:  A valve that has a single inlet and directs water to one of two outlets. Diverters are used with hand showers, shower risers, tub-and-shower combinations, and kitchen faucet sprayers.

drainage system:  Piping within a dwelling that conveys sewage, rainwater, or other liquid waste to a point of disposal.  It does not include the main of a public sewer system, or a private or public sewage treatment or disposal plant.  A sanitary drainage system carries sewage and excludes storm water, surface water, rainwater, and groundwater.

DWV (drainage, waste and vent system):   Refer to drainage system.

elbow:  An angled fitting that alters the direction of the line.  Also called an L, it comes in a variety of angles, from 22½ to 90 degrees.

escutcheon:  A trim piece or decorative flange that fits beneath a faucet handle to conceal the faucet stem and the hole in the fixture or wall.

evaluate:  To assess the systems, structures or components of a dwelling.

examine:  To visually look (see inspect).

fall/flow:  The proper slope or pitch of a pipe for adequate drainage.

faucet:  A device for regulating the flow of liquid from a reservoir, such as a pipe or drum.

fitting:  A general term that usually refers to faucets, shower valves, tub fillers, and various piping parts, such as tees and elbows.

fixture:  In plumbing, the devices that provide a supply of water and/or its disposal, such as sinks, tubs and toilets.

flex hose:  A flexible pipe or tube usually made of braided stainless steel, and commonly used with widespread or Roman tub faucets to provide variable centers.

flood-level rim:  The edge of the fixture or receptacle above which water will flow over and out of that fixture or receptacle.

flow rate:  The rate at which water is discharged from an outlet.  For example, the standard flow rate of a showerhead is 2½ gallons per minute.

flue:  A pipe used to exhaust smoke, gas or air.

flue lining:   Fired clay or terracotta pipe, round or square, usually made in all ordinary flue sizes and in 2-foot lengths, and used for the inner lining of a chimney with the brick or masonry work around the outside. A flue lining in a chimney runs from about a foot below the flue connection to the top of the chimney.

flush valve:  The valve separating the water in a toilet tank from the bowl.

flux:  A material applied to the surface of copper pipes and fittings to assist in the cleaning and bonding process.

· food waste grinder:  A device that grinds food sufficiently to enter a drain for disposal without clogging it.  See also disposer and garbage disposal.

function:  The action for which an item, component or system is specially fitted or used, or for which an item, component or system exists; to be in action or perform a task.

· garbage disposal: A device that grinds food sufficiently to enter a drain for disposal without clogging it.  See also disposer and food waste grinder.

gasket:  A pre-formed shape, such as a strip, grommet, etc., of rubber or rubber-like composition, used to fill and seal a joint or opening, either alone or in conjunction with the supplemental application of a sealant.

gate valve:  A valve that permits one to completely stop, but not modulate, the flow within a pipe.

GPM (gallons per minute):  The unit of measurement by which the flow rate of faucets and showerheads is measured and regulated.

groundwater:  Water from an aquifer or sub-surface water source.

hose bibb:  An outdoor faucet with hose threads on the spout, also commonly used to supply washing machines and wash basins.

hot water:  Water at a temperature equal to or greater than 110° F (43° C).

ID (inside diameter):  The diameter measurement taken from the inside of a pipe; a common method for sizing pipe.

inspect:  To examine readily accessible systems and components safely, using normal operating controls, and accessing readily accessible areas, in accordance with these Standards of Practice.

installed:  Attached or connected such that the installed item requires the use of a tool for removal.

lavatory:  Bathroom or washroom sink.

lead:  A malleable metal that was used for drainage pipes and was installed for water service entry pipes until its use was prohibited for health and safety reasons. 

main vent (or stack):  Principal vent to which branch vents may be connected. 

mixing valve:  A valve that mixes hot and cold water in order to obtain a set temperature prior to delivery.

non-vitreous:  A relative term as applied to ceramic products based on their water-absorbing characteristics; that degree of vitrification evidenced by relatively high water absorption, usually more than 10%, except for tile materials that are considered non-vitreous when water absorption exceeds 7%. 

notch:  A crosswise rabbet at the end of a board.

O-ring:  A round rubber washer or gasket that is compressed to create a watertight seal, typically in a compression fitting.

oakum:  Loose hemp or jute fiber that is impregnated with tar or pitch and used to caulk large seams and for packing plumbing pipe joints.

observe:  To visually notice.

operate:  To cause systems to function or turn on with normal operating controls.

P-trap:  A P-shaped section of drainpipe that prevents sewer odors from escaping into the home.  Water is trapped in the pipe, blocking gases from escaping into the drain.

PB (polybutylene):  Flexible plastic tubing used in water supply systems. 

pedestal lavatory:  A lavatory whose bowl is supported by a single pedestal leg.

percolation test (perc test):  A test that a soil engineer performs on earth to determine the feasibility of installing a leachfield-type sewer system on a lot; a test to determine if the soil on a proposed building lot is capable of absorbing the liquid effluent from a septic system.

plumbing boot:  A metal saddle used to strengthen a bearing wall/vertical stud(s) where a plumbing drain line has been cut through and installed.

plumbing rough:  The work performed by the plumbing contractor after the rough heat is installed. This work includes installing all plastic ABS drain and waste lines, copper water lines, bathtubs, shower pans, and gas piping to furnaces and fireplaces. Lead solder should not be used on copper piping.

plumbing stack:  A plumbing vent pipe that penetrates the roof.

plumbing trim:  The work performed by the plumbing contractor to get the home ready for the final plumbing inspection; includes installing all toilets (water closets), hot water heaters, sinks, disposal, dishwasher, and all other plumbing items, and connecting all gas pipes to combustion appliances.

plumbing waste line:  See drainage system.

polyvinyl chloride (PVC):  A polymer formed by the polymerization of vinyl chloride monomer, sometimes called vinyl; a type of white plastic pipe commonly used for DWV systems.

potable water:  Drinkable water fit for human consumption; fit to drink.

pressure-reducing valve:  A valve installed in the water service line where it enters a home to reduce the pressure of the water in the line to an acceptable and desirable level, typically 40 to 55 psi.

pressure tank:  A tank used in conjunction with a well to maintain pressure.

reducer:  A fitting that connects pipes of different sizes. 

relative humidity:  The amount of water vapor in the atmosphere, expressed as a percentage of the maximum quantity that could be present at a given temperature.  The actual amount of water vapor that can be held in space increases with the temperature.

report:  A written communication (possibly including digital images) of any material defects observed during an inspection.

residential property:  Four or fewer residential units.

residential unit:  A home; a single unit providing complete, independent living facilities for one or more persons, including permanent provisions for living, sleeping, eating, cooking and sanitation.

riser:  A vertical assembly of fittings and pipes that distributes water upward. 

rough-in:  The portion of a plumbing installation that includes running the water supply lines and drain, waste and vent lines to the proposed location of each fixture. 

run:  A complete or secondary section of pipe that extends from supply to fixture, or from drain to stack. 

sanitary drainage system:  A drainage system that carries sewage and excludes storm water, surface water, rainwater and groundwater.

sanitary fitting:  A fitting that joins the assorted pipes in a drain, waste and vent system, designed to allow solid material to pass through without clogging.

scupper:  An outlet in the wall of a building or a parapet wall for the drainage of water from a flat roof.

seat:  The fixed part of a valve. The stem assembly moves up and down against the seat to open and close the valve.

self-rimming:  A style of bathroom lavatory or kitchen sink with a finished lip or rim that installs on top of a counter without requiring a metal sink rim.

sewage:  A general term referring to the discharge from all plumbing fixtures, and primarily includes human bodily waste, and the waste associated with cleaning, washing, bathroom use, and food preparation.

sewage ejector:  A pump used to lift wastewater to a gravity sanitary sewer line, usually used in basements and other locations that are situated below the level of the side sewer.

sewer lateral:  The portion of the sanitary sewer that connects the interior wastewater lines to the main sewer lines. The side sewer is usually buried in several feet of soil and runs from the house to the sewer line. It is usually owned/operated by the sewer utility, must be maintained by the owner, and may be serviced only by utility-approved contractors; sometimes called a side sewer.

sewer stub:  The junction at the municipal sewer system where the home’s sewer line is connected.

sewer tap:  The physical connection point at which the home’s sewer line connects to the main municipal sewer line.

shut down:  Turned off, unplugged, inactive, not in service, not operational, etc.

shut-off valve:  The valve that allows the water supply to be cut off to one fixture without affecting the water supply to the entire house or building; commonly used at bathroom sinks and toilets.

side sewer:  The portion of the sanitary sewer which connects the interior waste water lines to the main sewer lines. The side sewer is usually buried in several feet of soil and runs from the house to the sewer line. It is usually owned/operated by the sewer utility, must be maintained by the owner, and may be serviced only by utility-approved contractors; sometimes called a sewer lateral.

sillcock:  An exterior water faucet; also called a hose bibb.

sleeve:  Pipe installed under the concrete driveway or sidewalk that will be used later to run sprinkler pipe or low-voltage wire.

sludge:  Term for the waste material found in sump pump pits, septic systems and gutters.

soil pipe:  Pipe that transports solid waste from toilets.

stack:  A vertical drainpipe that extends more than one floor level or story in a dwelling and carries liquid or air.

stack vent:   An extension of the soil or waste stack above the plumbing fixtures; a vent.

stem:  A small shaft or rod that projects through the faucet valve and to which the handle is installed.

stop valve:  A valve that controls the flow of water to an individual fixture, allowing the water supply to be stopped to one fixture without affecting the water supply to other fixtures. 

storm sewer:  A sewer system designed to collect storm water and which is separated from the wastewater system.

straight stop:  A shut-off valve that is installed on a supply line between the floor and the faucet or toilet. Unlike an angle stop, a straight stop does not change the direction of water flow.

sump pump:  A submersible pump in a sump pit that pumps any excess groundwater to the outside of the home.

system:  An assembly of various components that function as a whole.

tailpiece:  The tubular part of a drain that runs from the plumbing fixture to the trap.

tee (or T):  A T-shaped fitting with three openings used to create branch lines. 

trap:  A fitting or device that provides a liquid seal to prevent the emission of sewer gases without affecting the flow of sewage or wastewater through the trap.

trap seal:  The vertical distance between the crown weir and the top dip of the trap.  The crown weir is the lowest point in the cross-section of the horizontal waterway at the exit of the trap.  

tub trap:  A curved, U-shaped section of a bathtub drainpipe that holds a water seal to prevent sewer gases from entering the home through the tub’s water drain.

underground plumbing:  The plumbing drain and waste lines that are installed beneath a basement floor.

union:  A three-piece fitting that joins two sections of pipe, but allows them to be disconnected without cutting the pipe; used primarily with steel pipes, but never in a DWV system. 

unsafe:  In the inspector’s opinion, a condition of an area, system, component or procedure that is judged to be a significant risk of injury during normal, day-to-day use. The risk may be due to damage, deterioration, improper installation, or a change in accepted residential construction standards.

 vacuum breaker:  An anti-siphon device that prevents wastewater from being drawn back into supply lines, potentially contaminating the water supply. 

vent:  A passageway for conveying flue gases from fuel-burning appliances to the outside air.

vent stack:  The vertical, upper portion above the top-most fixture through which gases and odors escape the sanitary drainage system.  This pipe carries no liquids or solids.

vent system:  Piping that prevents trap siphonage and back-pressure, or equalizes the air pressure within the sanitary drainage system.

verify:  To confirm or substantiate.

waste:  Wastewater; drainage discharge that does not contain solid human waste.

waste and overflow:  A bathtub drain assembly that has an outlet at the top to remove overflow water when filling the tub, and an outlet at the bottom to remove wastewater when the tub is drained.

waste stack:  Vertical pipe that carries liquid or air through one or more stories of a dwelling.

water closet (WC):  toilet; commode. 

water tap:  The connection point at which a home’s water line connects to the main municipal water system.

wax ring job:  Removing a toilet from the floor so that a blockage can be manually removed, or to replace a degraded wax ring; replacing a wax ring on the bottom of the toilet to create a seal.

well casing:  A steel or plastic pipe that serves as the lining of a well, preventing it from caving in, and protecting groundwater from contamination by surface water.

whirlpool bathtub:  A plumbing appliance consisting of a bathtub fixture that is equipped and fitted with a circulating piping system designed to accept, circulate, agitate and discharge bathtub water for relaxation and therapeutic purposes.

wye (or Y):  A Y-shaped fitting with three openings used to create branch lines. 

yoke:  The location where a home’s water meter is installed between two copper pipes, and located in the water meter pit in the yard.

zone valve:  A device, usually placed near the heater or cooler, that controls the flow of water or steam to parts of the building.  A zone thermostat controls it.

Roof Maintenance

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Although homeowners aren’t necessarily expected to climb on their roofs every season as part of regular home maintenance, there are some conditions that should be monitored to prevent roof damage and to help you get the longest life out of your roof-covering materials.  Certain types of damage can lead to water and pest intrusion, structural deterioration, and the escape of costly energy. 

Weathering

Weathering Shingles

Hail and storm damage, known as weathering, can weaken a roof’s surface even if you haven’t lost any shingles/shakes/slates following a storm.  It’s the most common source of environmental damage for roofs.  Strong, sustained winds can cause uplift to the edges of shingles and shakes, which can weaken their points of attachment and allow rainwater and melting snow to reach the roof’s underlayment.  Wind can also send projectiles through the air, which can damage every surface of the home’s exterior, including the roof.  You should always inspect your roof after a heavy weather event, as far as it is practical to do so without taking any undue risks, to check whether you have lost any roof-covering materials, or if any parts look particularly weathered or damaged.  A small fix now could prevent costly repairs later.

Tree Damage

Tree Damage

Tree damage results from wind-blown tree branches scraping against shingles and from the impact of falling branches blown by the wind and/or because the nearby tree has dead branches that eventually break off and fall.  Branches that overhang the roof should always be cut back to avoid damage from both abrasion and impact, and to prevent the accumulation of leaf debris on the roof, its valleys, and in the gutters, which will interfere with proper drainage and lead to pooling of rainwater and snowmelt.  Of course, it’s especially important to make sure that tree limbs near the home’s roof and exterior are a safe distance away from utility and power lines.  Tree-trimming is a type of homeowner maintenance task that should be undertaken by qualified professionals, as it can lead to accidentally cutting off the service or power from an overhead line, being electrocuted by an energized line, being struck by an unsecured tree branch, falling off the roof or a ladder, and any number of similar mishaps that the homeowner is not trained to anticipate and avoid.

Animal Damage

Animal Damage

Squirrels and raccoons (and roof rats in coastal regions) will sometimes tear through shingles and roof sheathing when they’re searching for a protected area in which to build nests and raise their young. They often attack the roof’s eaves first, especially on homes that have suffered decay to the roof sheathing due to a lack of drip edges or from problems caused by ice damming, because decayed sheathing is softer and easier to tear through.  If you hear any activity of wildlife on your roof, check inside your attic for evidence of pest intrusion, such as damaged insulation, which pests may use for nesting material.  Darkened insulation generally indicates that excess air is blowing through some hole in the structure, leading the insulation to become darkened by dirt or moisture.

Biological Growth 

Algie

Algae, moss, and lichen are types of biological growth that may be found on asphalt shingles under certain conditions. Some professionals consider this growth destructive, while others consider it merely a cosmetic problem.  Asphalt shingles may become discolored by both algae and moss, which spread by releasing airborne spores.

Almost all biological growth on shingles is related to the long-term presence of excess moisture, which is why these problems are more common in areas with significant rainfall and high relative humidity.  But even in dry climates, roofs that are shaded most of the time can develop biological growth.

What we commonly call “algae” is actually not algae, but a type of bacteria capable of photosynthesis. Algae appear as dark streaks, which are actually the dark sheaths produced by the organisms to protect themselves from the ultraviolet radiation of the sun. When environmental conditions are right, the problem can spread quickly across a roof.

Algae can feed on mineral nutrients, such as the calcium carbonate in limestone used as asphalt shingle filler. Calcium carbonate also causes asphalt to retain moisture, which also promotes algae growth, so shingles with excessive filler may be more likely to suffer more algae growth.  The rate of filler consumption is slow enough that it’s not generally considered a serious problem.

Algae attach to the shingle by secreting a substance that bonds it tightly to the surface. Growth can be difficult to remove without damaging the roof. The best method is prevention. Algae stains can sometimes be lightened in color by using special cleaners.  Power-washing and heavy scrubbing may loosen or dislodge granules. Chemicals used for cleaning shingles may damage landscaping. Also, the cleaning process makes the roof wet and slippery, so such work should be performed by a qualified professional.

Moss

Moss is a greenish plant that can grow more thickly than algae. It attaches itself to the roof through a shallow root system that can be freed from shingles fairly easily with a brush.  Moss deteriorates shingles by holding moisture against them, but this is a slow process. Moss is mostly a cosmetic issue and, like algae, can create hazardous conditions for those who climb on the roof.

Lichens are composite organisms consisting of a fungus and a photosynthetic partner, such as green or blue-green algae. Lichens bond tightly to the roof, and when they’re removed from asphalt shingles, they may take granules with them. Damage from lichen removal can resemble blistering.

Tobacco-juicing

“Tobacco-juicing” is the brownish discoloration that appears on the surface of shingles, under certain weather conditions. It’s often temporary and may have a couple of different causes. After especially long periods of intensely sunny days, damp nights, and no rain, water-soluble compounds may leach out of the asphalt from the shingles and be deposited on the surface.  Tobacco-juicing may also appear under the same weather conditions if the air is especially polluted.  Tobacco-juicing won’t harm asphalt shingles, although it may run down the roof and stain siding. Although it’s more common in the West and Southwest, it can happen anywhere that weather conditions are right.  You can spray-wash or paint the exterior of the home to remove tobacco-juicing.

Your Optimal Home inspector should investigate signs of roof damage or deterioration before you call a roofing contractor.  That way, you’ll know exactly what types of problems should be addressed before you break out the checkbook for repairs.

15 Tools Every Homeowner Should Have (Part 3)

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Claw Hammer: A good hammer is one of the most important tools you can own.  Use it to drive and remove nails, to pry wood loose from the house, and in combination with other tools. They come in a variety of sizes, although a 16-ounce hammer is the best all-purpose choice.

Screwdriver Set: It’s best to have four screwdrivers:  a small and large version of both a flathead and a Phillips-head screwdriver. Electrical screwdrivers are sometimes convenient, but they’re no substitute.  Manual screwdrivers can reach into more places and they’re less likely to damage the screw.

Wire Cutters: Wire cutters are pliers designed to cut wires and small nails. The side-cutting style (unlike the stronger end-cutting style) is handy, but not strong enough to cut small nails.

Respirator / Safety Mask: While paints and other coatings are now manufactured to be less toxic (and lead-free) than in previous decades, most still contain dangerous chemicals, which is why you should wear a mask to avoid accidentally inhaling their fumes. A mask should also be worn when working in dusty and dirty environments. Disposable masks usually come in packs of 10 and should be thrown away after use. Full and half-face respirators can be used to prevent the inhalation of very fine particles that ordinary facemasks will not stop, such as insulation fibers and sawdust.

Duct Tape: This tape is extremely strong and adaptable. Originally, it was widely used to make temporary repairs to many types of military equipment. Today, it’s one of the key items specified for home emergency kits because it’s water-resistant and extremely sticky.  Duct tape now comes in a variety of colors, but remember that it’s meant to be used as a temporary fix.

Filed Under: FYI

Electrical Panel Safety in Hoboken

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All homeowners should know where their electrical panel is located.  When you open the door to it, you should find breakers that are labeled which correspond to the different rooms or areas of the home.  Breakers will sometimes trip due to a power surge or outage, and the homeowner can flip the switch to reactivate the current to the particular room or area.  Behind the breakers is the dead front, and it is this electrical component that should be removed only by a qualified electrician or inspector. 

Before touching the electrical panel to re-set a breaker, ask yourself the following questions:

  • Do I have an escape path?  Make sure that you know where you can safely turn or step if you must escape a dangerous surprise, such a bee or a spark. An unfortunately placed shovel or extension cord, for instance, can turn a quick jerk into a dangerous fall.
  • Is the floor wet?  Never touch any electrical equipment while standing on a wet surface!
  • Does the panel appear to be wet?  Check overhead for dripping water that may have condensed on a cold water pipe.  
  • Is the panel rusty?  Rust is an indication of previous wet conditions that may still exist.
  • Are there scorch marks on the panel door?  This can indicate a past or very recent arc, and further investigation should be deferred to a licensed electrician.

Here is a list of defective conditions that a homeowner may see that may be called out during an electrical inspection:

  • insufficient clearance. According to the 2008 National Electrical Code, most residential electrical panels require at least a 3-foot clearance or working space in front, 30 inches of width, and a minimum headroom clearance of 6 feet, or the height of the equipment, whichever is greater.
  • sharp-tipped panel box screws. Panel box cover screws must have blunt ends so they do not pierce the wires inside the box.
  • circuit breakers that are not properly sized.
  • oxidation or corrosion to any of the parts. Oxidized or corroded wires will increase the resistance of conductors and create the potential for arcing. 
  • damage caused by rodents. Rodents have been known to chew through wire insulation in electrical panels (and other areas), creating an unsafe condition. Rodents have been electrocuted this way, leaving an unsightly mess inside the panel.
  • evidence of electrical failures, such as burned or overheated components.
  • evidence of water entry inside the electrical panel. Moisture can corrode circuit breakers so that they won’t trip, make connections less reliable and the equipment unsafe to touch.
  • a panel manufactured by Zinsco or Federal Pacific Electric (FPE). These panels have a reputation for being problematic, and further evaluation by a qualified electrician is recommended. 

Fire Safety in Jersey City

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The National Fire Protection Association’s fire prevention program promotes the following eight tips that people of all ages and abilities can use to keep family members safe, especially during the threat of a house fire.

  1. Plan and practice your escape from fire.
    We’ve heard this advice before, but you can’t be prepared to act in an emergency if you don’t have a plan and everybody knows what that plan is.  Panic and fear can spread as quickly as a fire, so map out an escape route and a meeting place outdoors, and involve even the youngest family members so that everyone can work as a unit to make a safe escape.  If you live in a condo or apartment building, make sure you read the signs posted on your floor advising you of the locations of stairways and other exits, as well as alarm pull stations and fire extinguishers.
  2. Plan your escape around your abilities.
    Keeping a phone by your bedside will allow you to call 911 quickly, especially if the exits of your home are blocked by smoke or flames.  Keep a pair of shoes near your bed, too.  If your home or building has a fire escape, take some time to practice operating it and climbing it.
  3. Smoke alarms save lives.
    If you don’t already have permanently installed smoke alarms hard-wired into your electrical system and located outside each bedroom and on each floor, purchase units and place them in those locations.  Install them using adhesive or screws, but be careful not to touch your screwdriver to any internal wiring, which can cause an electrostatic discharge and disable them.  Also, install carbon monoxide detectors, which can protect family members from lethal poisoning even before a fire starts.
  4. Give space heaters space. 
    Whether saving on utility bills by using the furnace infrequently, or when using these portable units for spot heating, make sure you give them at least 3 feet of clearance.  Be sure to turn off and unplug them when you leave or go to bed.  Electrical appliances draw current even when they’re turned off, and a faulty unit can cause a fire that can spread through the wires in the walls at a deadly pace.
  5. If you smoke, smoke outside. 
    Not only will this keep your family members healthier and your home smelling fresher, it will minimize the chance that an errant ember from your cigarette will drop and smolder unnoticed until it causes damage.
  6. Be kitchen-wise. 
    This means monitoring what you have on the stove and keeping track of what’s baking in the oven.  Don’t cook if you’re tired or taking medication that clouds your judgment or makes you drowsy.  Being kitchen-wise also means wearing clothing that will not easily catch on the handles of pots and pans, or graze open flames or heating elements.  It also means knowing how to put out a grease fire:  water will make it spread, but salt or baking soda will extinguish it quickly, as will covering the pot or pan with a lid and turning off the stove.  Always use your cooktop’s vent fan while cooking.  Also, keep a small, all-purpose fire extinguisher in a handy place, such as under the sink.  These 3-pound lifesavers are rated “ABC” for their fire-suppressing contents. Read the instructions on these inexpensive devices when you bring them home from the store so that you can act quickly, if the time comes.
  7. Stop, drop and roll.
    Fight the urge to panic and run if your clothes catch fire because this will only accelerate its spread, since fire needs oxygen to sustain and grow.  Tamping out the fire by rolling is effective, especially since your clothes may be on fire on your back or lower body where you may not be immediately aware of it.  If ground space is limited, cover yourself with a blanket to tamp out any flames, and douse yourself with water as soon as you can.  Additionally, always stay close to the floor during a fire; heat and smoke rise, and breathable air will normally be found at the floor-level, giving you a greater chance of escape before being overcome by smoke and toxic fumes.
  8. Know your local emergency number. 
    People of all ages need to know their emergency number (usually, it’s 911).  Posting it near the phone and putting it on speed-dial will save precious moments when the ability to think clearly may be compromised.

Keep your family safe by following these simple tips!

15 Tools Every Homeowner Should Have (Part 2)

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Flashlight: None of the tools you own will be of any use if you cannot visually inspect the situation. The problem—and solution—are apparent only with a good flashlight. A traditional two-battery flashlight is usually sufficient, as larger flashlights may be too unwieldy.  Of course, having backups at home (as well as in all your vehicles) is a must for emergency situations.

Tape Measure: Measuring house projects requires a tape measure—not a ruler or a yardstick. Tape measures come in many lengths, although one that is at least 25 feet is best.  Measure everything at least twice to ensure accuracy, regardless of the project.

Hacksaw: A hacksaw is useful for cutting metal objects, such as pipes, bolts and brackets. Hacksaws look thin and flimsy, but they’ll easily cut through even the hardest of metals. Blades are replaceable, so focus your purchase on a quality hacksaw frame.  Use a stable surface for cutting, and use caution, as a hacksaw injury can be painful and deep.

Torpedo Level: Only a level can be used to determine if something, such as a shelf, appliance or picture, is correctly oriented. The torpedo-style level is unique because it not only shows when an object is perfectly horizontal and vertical, but it also has a gauge that shows when an object is at a 45-degree angle. The bubble in the viewfinder must be exactly in the middle—not merely close.

Safety Glasses / Goggles: For all tasks involving a hammer, saw or a power tool, you should always wear safety glasses or goggles. They should also be worn while you mix chemicals, install insulation, and do major renovation projects involving tear-downs of building materials, such as drywall, because anything that can go airborne upon destruction can wind up in your eyes, causing irritation or injury. 

Five more tools will be covered next month!

Filed Under: FYI