Optimal Home Inspections

Most Recommended Home Inspector in NJ

FYI

Safety Barrier Guidelines for Residential Pools

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Many communities have enacted safety regulations for barriers at residential swimming pools—in-ground and above ground. In addition to following these laws, parents who own pools can take their own precautions to reduce the chances of their youngsters accessing the family or neighbors’ pools or spas without supervision. This booklet provides tips for creating and maintaining effective barriers to pools and spas.

See the document here.

Filed Under: FYI

Preventing Water Intrusion

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Preventing Water Intrusion in Basements & Crawlspaces

The biggest concern for homeowners related to their basement and/or crawlspace area is unwanted moisture intrusion.  This can be the result of several factors, which is why homeowners should occasionally check these areas.

The basement is typically the area of a home most at risk for water damage because it’s located below grade and surrounded by soil.  Soil releases the water it has absorbed during rain or when the snow melts, and the water can end up in the basement through cracks.  Water can even migrate through solid concrete walls via capillary action, which is a phenomenon whereby liquid spontaneously rises in a narrow space, such as a thin tube, or via porous materials.  Wet basements can cause problems that include peeling paint, toxic mold contamination, building rot, foundation collapse, and termite damage.  Even interior air quality can be affected if naturally occurring gases released by the soil are being transmitted into the basement. 

Properly waterproofing a basement will lessen the risk of damage caused by moisture or water.  Homeowners should be aware of what they can do to keep their basements and crawlspaces dry and safe from damage. 

Prevent water entry.
You can help prevent water from entering the basement by ensuring that it’s diverted away from the foundation.  Poor roof drainage and surface runoff due to gutter defects and improper site grading may be the most common causes of a wet basement. 

Here are some measures to use to divert water away from the foundation:

  • Install and maintain gutters and downspouts so that they route all rainwater and snowmelt at least 10 feet away from the foundation to prevent pooling near the exterior walls.  At the point where water leaves the downspout, it should be able to flow freely away from the foundation instead of back toward it, and it should not be collecting in standing puddles.  A backsplash and diverter can help with this.
  • The finish grade should be sloped away from the building for 10 to 15 feet.  Low spots that may lead to water pooling near the foundation should be re-graded and evened out.
  • Shallow ditches called swales should be dug if one or more sides of the home face an upward slope.  A swale should slope away from the home for 10 to 15 feet, at which point it can empty into another swale that directs water around to the downhill-side of the property, leading it away from the foundation.

Repair all cracks and holes.
There are several causes of cracks and holes that permit moisture intrusion.  Poor workmanship during the home’s construction is one factor.  Water pressure from the outside can also build up, forcing water through the walls.  The house may have settled, causing cracks in the floor or walls.  It’s important to repair all cracks and small holes to prevent leaks and floods.  Any large cracks or holes should be evaluated by a professional after consulting with your InterNACHI home inspector.

Here are some steps to take if you suspect that water is entering the basement through cracks or holes:

  • Examine the basement for holes and cracks and for moisture, leaks and discoloration.
  • A waterproof mixture of epoxy and latex cement can be used to fill small hairline cracks and holes. 
  • Any cracks larger than about 1/8-inch should be filled with mortar made from one part cement and two parts fine sand, with just enough water to make a fairly stiff mortar.  It should be pressed firmly into all parts of the larger cracks and holes to be sure that no air bubbles or pockets remain.  As long as water is not being forced through the basement walls due to outside pressure, the application of mortar with a standard trowel will be sufficient if special care is taken to fill all cracks completely.
  • If water is being forced through by outside pressure, a slightly different method of patching can be used, involving chiseling out the mouth the crack along its length and cutting a dovetail groove, which is then filled with mortar.  You may wish to defer this type of repair to a masonry professional.
  • Sodium silicate is a water-based mixture that will actually penetrate the substrate by up to 4 inches.  Concrete, concrete block and masonry include lime as a natural component, which reacts with the sodium silicate to produce a solid, crystalline structure that fills in all the microscopic cracks, holes and pores.  No water vapor or gas will be able to penetrate via capillary action because the concrete and masonry have now become harder and denser from the sodium silicate.  It is an alkaline substance and, as such, can burn the skin and eyes on contact.  Inhalation can also cause respiratory irritation.  All surfaces receiving this treatment must be prepared, and the several required applications must be thorough.  These are all reasons that this type of work should be performed by a trained professional.

Filed Under: FYI

Air-Conditioning Systems

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A building’s central air-conditioning system must be periodically inspected and maintained in order to function properly. While an annual inspection performed by a trained professional is recommended, homeowners can do a lot of the work themselves by following the tips offered here.

Clean the Exterior Condenser Unit and Components

The exterior condenser unit is the large box located on the side of the house that’s designed to push heat from the indoors to the outdoors. Inside of the box are coils of pipe that are surrounded by thousands of thin metal “fins” that allow the coils more surface area to exchange heat. 

Follow these tips when cleaning the exterior condenser unit and its inner components — after turning off power to the unit, of course.

  • Remove any leaves, spider webs and other debris from the unit’s exterior. Trim foliage back several feet from the unit to ensure proper air flow.
  • Remove the cover grille to clean any debris from the unit’s interior. A garden hose can be helpful for this task.
  • Straighten any bent fins with a tool called a fin comb.
  • Add lubricating oil to the motor. Check your owner’s manual for specific instructions.
  • Clean the evaporator coil and condenser coil at least once a year. When they collect dirt, they may not function properly.

Inspect the Condensate Drain Line

Condensate drain lines collect condensed water and drain it away from the unit.  They’re located on the side of the inside fan unit. Sometimes there are two drain lines—a primary drain line that’s built into the unit, and a secondary drain line that can drain if the first line becomes blocked. 

Homeowners can inspect the drain line by using the following tips, which take very little time and require no specialized tools:

  • Inspect the drain line for obstructions, such as algae and debris. If the line becomes blocked, water will back up into the drain pan and overflow, potentially causing a safety hazard or water damage to your home.
  • Make sure the hoses are secured and fit properly.

Clean the Air Filter

Air filters remove pollen, dust, and other particles that would otherwise circulate indoors. Most filters are typically rectangular in shape and about 20 x 16 inches, and about 1 inch thick. They slide into the main ductwork near the inside fan unit. The filter should be periodically washed or replaced, depending on the manufacturer’s instructions. A dirty air filter will not only degrade the quality of the home indoors, but it will also strain the motor to work harder to move air through it, increasing energy costs and reducing energy efficiency. The filter should be replaced monthly during heavy use during the cooling seasons. You may need to change the filter more often if the air conditioner is in constant use, if any family members have respiratory problems if you have pets with fur, and/or if it’s particularly dusty indoors.  

Close the Air-Distribution Registers

Air-distribution registers are duct openings in ceilings, walls and floors where cold air enters the room. They should be closed after the cooling season ends in order to keep warm air from back-flowing out of the room during the warming season. Pests and dust will also be unable to enter the ducts during the winter if the registers are closed. These vents can typically be opened or closed with an adjacent lever or wheel.  Remember to open the registers in the spring before the cooling season starts.  Also, make sure they’re not blocked by drapes, carpeting or furniture.

In addition, homeowners should practice the following strategies in order to keep their central air-conditioning systems running properly:

  • Have the air-conditioning system inspected by a professional each year before the start of the cooling season.
  • Reduce stress on the air-conditioning system by enhancing your home’s energy efficiency. Switch from incandescent lights to compact fluorescents, for instance, which produce less heat.

Thermostats

Thermostats are devices designed to control the heating and cooling system in the home so that the air temperature remains comfortable. Homeowners should understand how thermostats operate, as well as the more common problems associated with them. 

Thermostats can be manually controlled or set to activate automatically based on timers or room temperature readings. Most thermostats contain two meters:  the “set” temperature that the thermostat is asking for, and the actual temperature. On a traditional dial-type thermostat, the user can increase the set temperature by rotating the dial clockwise, and lower it by rotating it counter-clockwise. Newer thermostats usually have digital displays, which can be used to adjust automated heating and cooling schedules. 

Location

In order to avoid false or “ghost” readings, which will cause unnecessary furnace or air-conditioner cycling, the thermostat must be installed so that it correctly reads the room temperature. 

The following locations may cause the thermostat to give false readings: 

  • near a heat source, such as a fireplace, hot water pipes, bright lights, direct sunlight, and electrical appliances that produce heat;  
  • in a drafty hallway, or near a window or exterior door that is left open often; and
  • on an outside wall. Outside walls are affected too much by outside temperatures, which may make the thermostat “think” the air in the house is warmer or cooler than it really is.

Common Thermostat Problems and Solutions

  • erratic operation or fluctuating temperature. This is often caused by poor pin connections between the thermostat and the backplate when the backplate is flexed against an uneven wall. To allow the backplate to flatten out, loosen the screws that attach the backplate to the wall, then snap the thermostat back onto the backplate. 
  • a thermostat that doesn’t respond to changes in room temperature. This can happen when there is air passing over the temperature sensor from a hole in the wall behind the thermostat, through which wires enter from the air-handling unit. To rectify this, insulate the hole behind the thermostat with fiber insulation, spray foam, or any other insulating material. 
  • a temperature reading that is inaccurate. A convenient way to test the temperature sensor is to tape a thermometer to the wall next to the thermostat and wait 15 minutes. A faulty thermometer needs to be recalibrated. Instructions for recalibration vary by manufacturer. 
  • loss of power. This may be caused by the following two situations:
    1. If the air handler powers the thermostat, check the circuit breaker meant for the air handler and make sure it has not tripped.
    2. If batteries power the thermostat, make sure they are lithium, not alkaline. Alkaline batteries will die rapidly or cause erratic thermostat operation.

Maintenance and Other Tips

  • Give the thermostat’s interior a light dusting with a small, soft-bristle paintbrush. Canned air can also be used to blow off dust. Twist the screws to remove the cover. Be sure to clean the contacts, which are small metal plates within the unit. The wires coming from the transformer attach to the contacts. Do not touch any of the interior parts with your fingers. 
  • If the base is loose, re-tighten the screws. Check the wires coming from the transformer. If any corrosion is present, remove the wire from the contact and clean it. Use a wire stripper to remove the surrounding insulation, cut back the wire, and reconnect it. 
  • Make sure the terminal screws are tight. 
  • For wireless thermostats, make sure the model number of the thermostat matches the model number of the receiver. If the model numbers don’t match, the thermostat and receiver will not be compatible and won’t function properly together. 
  • Make sure that your thermostat has been set to the proper position for the season: cooling or heating. The air conditioner will not run with the switch set to “heating” and, conversely, the heating system won’t run if the thermostat has been set to “cooling.”
  • Thermostats that contain a mercury switch must remain perfectly level or they may not control the temperature setting. 

A Few Notes on Energy Savings

  • Many people believe that furnaces work harder than normal to warm an area back up to a comfortable temperature, which will counteract energy savings gained from turning the thermostat down. This belief is a misconception that has been disproved by years of studies and research. Fuel is saved between the time the temperature is stabilized at the lower level and the next time heat is needed, while the fuel required to re-heat the space is roughly equal to the fuel saved while the building drops to a lower temperature. 
  • According to the U.S. Department of Energy, consumers can save 10% on their utility bills by setting their thermostat lower by 10° to 15° for eight hours. This can be easily accomplished with a programmable thermostat. 
  • Be careful not to set the thermostat so low in the winter that indoor plumbing pipes freeze, or so low during the summer that mold may be allowed to grow prompted by excess indoor humidity.  

Programmable Thermostats

Using a programmable thermostat in the winter, you can automatically turn down your heat at night or when you’re not at home.  In the summer, you can save money by automatically turning your air conditioner up at night or when you’re at work. 

Using a programmable thermostat, you can adjust the times that the heating and air conditioner go on and off according to a preset schedule. As a result, the equipment doesn’t operate as much when you’re asleep or when the house (or a part of it) is empty. Programmable thermostats can store and repeat multiple daily settings (six or more temperature settings a day) that you can manually override without affecting the rest of the daily or weekly program.

Landscaping

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Well-maintained landscaping and other improvements are important for the enjoyment of a healthy and durable property.

Plants, Trees & Shrubs:  Check the location and condition of all trees and shrubbery. Those that are overgrown should be pruned or trimmed. Where trees or bushes have overgrown, complete removal may be necessary. Trees need to be trimmed.  Overhanging branches should not interfere with a chimney’s draft, be too close to utility wires, or deposit leaves and twigs on the roof or inside gutters and drains. Trees and shrubbery that are very close to exterior walls or roofs can cause damage. They can make it difficult to perform homeowner maintenance, inspections and repairs. Branches around the perimeter of the house should be pruned back. Tree roots under concrete walks can cause damage. Roots are usually exposed near the surface and can be cut back. Tree roots can cause a home’s foundation to crack by pushing against it from the outside. If you have any of these issues, consider hiring an arborist. An arborist is a specialist in the cultivation and care of trees and shrubs, including tree surgery, the diagnosis, treatment, and prevention of tree diseases, and the control of pests. Find a certified arborist in New Jersey at www.njaisa.com

Yard Drainage

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Making sure that your property is sloped to allow proper drainage can mean the difference between a trouble-free rainy season and a flooded basement a few times a year.  Unwanted moisture intrusion—even at a level not serious enough to cause interior flooding—can create insidious problems that will be difficult to completely eliminate, such as weakened structural elements, mold growth, and other damage and health hazards.

Most problems with moisture in basements and crawlspaces are caused by poor site drainage. The ground should slope away from window wells, exterior basement stairs, and other means of egress. The bottom of each of these areas should be sloped to a drain. Each drain should have piping that connects it to a stormwater drainage system (if there is one) or that drains to either a discharge at a lower grade or into a sump pit that collects and discharges the water away from the building. 

Rain:  During the next heavy rainstorm without lightning, grab an umbrella and go outside. Walk around your house and look around at the roof and property. A rainstorm is a perfect time to see how the roof, downspouts, and grading are performing. Observe the drainage patterns of your entire property, as well as the property of your neighbor. The ground around your house should slope away from all sides. Downspouts, surface gutters, and drains should be directing water away from the foundation.

One important maintenance task is to monitor and maintain the drains and piping. Drains and piping should be open and clear of leaves, earth, and debris. A garden hose can be used to check water flow, although its discharge cannot approximate storm conditions. 

House on a Hillside:  Where a building is situated on a hillside, it is more difficult to slope the ground away from the building on all sides. On the high-ground side of the building, the slope of the ground toward the building could be interrupted by a surface drainage system that collects and disposes of rainwater runoff. Swales can be used to direct surface water away from the foundation. There are two general types of surface drainage systems: an open system, consisting of a swale (often referred to as a ditch), sometimes with a culvert at its end to collect and channel water away; and a closed system, consisting of gutters with catch basins.

NJ Fire Escapes

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The following is reposted from FireEscapesNJ.com as a courtesy only for our clients.

Fire Escapes are outside the scope of a home inspection. Any report or comment is a courtesy only, no guarantees given or liability accepted. Consult a qualified contractor to evaluate all fire escapes and repair if needed before your closing.

NEW JERSEY FIRE ESCAPE CODE 1028.6

EXTERIOR EGRESS ALL EXIT DISCHARGE, EXTERIOR STAIRWAYS AND FIRE ESCAPES SHALL BE KEPT FREE OF SNOW AND ICE. 

ANY NEW JERSEY FIRE ESCAPE OR EXTERIOR STAIRWAY FOUND TO BE IN A STATE OF DETERIORATION OR DETERMINED TO BE UNSAFE BY THE FIRE OFFICIAL SHALL BE REPAIRED IMMEDIATELY.

DEPENDING UPON THE STRUCTURAL CONDITION, A LOAD TEST OF ANY FIRE ESCAPE SHALL BE CONDUCTED BEFORE THE ESCAPE IS RETURNED TO SERVICE IN ACCORDANCE WITH N.J.A.C.5.23, THE UNIFORM CONSTRUCTION CODE.

New Jersey: Section 103.4 Technical assistance. To determine the acceptability of technologies, processes, products, facilities, materials and uses attending the design, operation or use of a building or premises subject to inspection by the fire code official, the fire code official is authorized to require the owner or agent to provide, without charge to the jurisdiction, a technical opinion and report. The opinion and report shall be prepared by a qualified engineer, specialist, laboratory or fire safety specialty organization acceptable to the fire code official and shall analyze the fire safety properties of the design, operation or use of the building or premises and the facilities and appurtenances situated thereon, to recommend necessary changes. The fire code official is authorized to require documentation to be prepared by, and bear the stamp of, a registered design professional.

N.J.A.C 1031.6 Exterior egress. “All exit discharge, exterior stairways and fire escapes shall be kept free of snow and ice. Any fire escape or exterior stairway found to be in a state of deterioration or determined to be unsafe by the fire official shall be repaired immediately. Depending upon the structural condition, a load test of any fire escape shall be conducted before the escape is returned to service in accordance with the N.J.A.C. 5:23, the Uniform Construction Code”.

N.J.A.C 1031.1.1 Storage. “Combustible or flammable material shall not be placed, stored or kept in any portion of an exit, elevator car or hoist way, or at the bottom of a stairway, fire escape or other means of escape, unless such space is enclosed and protected as required by the construction code in effect at the time of first occupancy. Such storage shall be located so the presence or burning of the materials will not obstruct or render hazardous the means of egress.”N.J.A.C 102.1.1 Any dangerous or hazardous conditions that are outlined in 1 through 10 below shall be removed or remedied in accordance with the provisions of N.J.A.C. 5:70-2.10: 3.  Obstruction to or on fire escapes, stairs, passageways, doors or windows, liable to interfere with the egress of occupants or the operation of the fire department in case of fire; NJ Formal Technical Opinion-3 Fire Escapes 

https://www.nj.gov/dca/codes/publications/pdf_fto/fto_3.pdf

NATIONAL CODES:

2012 IFC 1104.16.5.1 Fire escape stairs must be examined every 5 years, by design professional or others acceptable and inspection report must be submitted to the fire code official.

IBC 1001.3.3 All fire escapes shall be examined and/or tested and certified every five years by a design professional or others acceptable who will then submit an affidavit city official.

NFPA LIFE SAFETY CODE 101  7.2.8.6.2 The Authority Having Jurisdiction (AHJ) shall approve any fire escape by Load Test or other evidence of strength (Certification).

OSHA 1910.37 Exit routes must be maintained during construction, repairs, alterations or provide alternative egress with equivalent level of safety. (permit issued if egress is certified or with egress scaffolding) 

FIVE STEPS to Certify a Fire Escape:

  1. Schedule a pre load test evaluation by a design professional or others acceptable by City Official – AHJ (Authority Having Jurisdiction)
  2. Said professional will confirm with City Official if there are any other requirements other than load testing or other evidence of strength and if City Official wants to witness initial evaluation
  3. Submit evaluation report to owner/agent and a copy to the City Official as per code
  4. Issue certification, if passed, done by load test or other evidence of strength to City Official or, if failed, owner/agent and city official to confirm next steps (ex. engineer oversight, permits or other conditions)
  5. Please contact your local City Official (AHJ) with any questions about the above steps

Home buying for Newbies

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Yes, I know how exciting buying is! Sometimes a little too exciting.

You’ve come to this post probably cause your offer just got accepted on the home of your dreams, and your attorney, realtor, or someone involved in this transaction has said now is the time for a home inspection. You probably have a small window to get the inspection, and you don’t know where to start. This post is for you.

Should I waive the inspection contingency?

Waiving the contingency in this competitive market is something you need to discuss with your attorney. If you waive the contingency, you should absolutely, positively get an inspection anyway. If something significant comes up in the inspection, you can always walk away. Here is a good article on Inspection Contingencies.

Why get an inspection?

Whether or not you waive the contingency, the home inspection offers valuable insights you can’t get elsewhere and may be your only chance to thoroughly evaluate the property. Qualified inspectors, trained through rigorous education, examine all major systems in the home. In New Jersey, inspectors must complete ongoing education on building components, and specialized training is required for termite inspections and radon measurements.

What about the condition of homes in this market?

I have inspected hundreds of homes in this highly competitive market, and my thoughts on it are as follows. It is a tight market; not many homes are for sale, and prices are high—right, I know, that’s obvious. The homes available for new buyers, who generally don’t have a lot of money, are typically older homes that haven’t been well-maintained—that’s why they are affordable.

Houses, townhouses, apartment condos, and co-ops all age and need maintenance, and eventually need repairs. Every home inspector will tell you no home is perfect. The homes available to first-time homebuyers will probably need repairs. This is where an experienced home inspector comes in. You want an inspector who can identify the minor issues from the truly major problems that can take a lot of money to repair. Your inspector will help open your eyes to the potential issues and put them in perspective for you.

The home is new, should I still get an inspection?

Newly completed homes still need thorough inspections. Builders may insist that the home has passed all municipal inspections and doesn’t require an independent check. However, home inspections focus on different issues than permit or code inspections.

I have found several problems in new homes that town inspectors missed. For example, I test dishwashers to ensure proper function and identify leaks. Many were improperly wired, causing power issues. In one instance, a leaking dishwasher caused a flood in the basement of a new townhouse.

I also test air conditioning when weather permits. After running the AC for about an hour, I discovered a significant leak in the kitchen from a unit mounted in the attic. These examples illustrate the potential issues in newly built homes.

What’s the bottom line?

Always, always get a home inspection! Even if you agreed to waive the contingency, there is so much about the home that you won’t learn unless you hire a licensed home inspector to work with you. Lastly, especially if you are a first-time homebuyer, always accompany the inspector; they will show you what they find and answer all your questions.

Tips For Homebuyers

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Whether you’re a first-time homebuyer or a veteran homeowner downsizing or trading up, these valuable tips can help streamline your real estate transaction by making it go quicker and smoother with the help of your InterNACHI-Certified Professional Inspector®.

  • Use a buyer’s real estate agent. The buyer’s agent has a fiduciary duty to their client, and works only for you— the homebuyer—even if they are paid by the broker who listed the home for the seller.
  • Help your agent help you. Give your real estate agent as much information as possible. Your agent isn’t a mind-reader. Tell your agent what type of home you’re looking for, where you want to live, and how much you want to spend. Be honest with your agent.
  • Go home-shopping during the holidays. Home sellers who list their home for sale just before the holidays are likely desperate to sell. There are also fewer homebuyers to compete with during the holidays. If you want a really good deal, looking for a home during the holidays may be the best way to find one.
  • Test-drive your commute to and from work during peak traffic hours. Is the home you want as close to your workplace time-wise as you thought it was? Part of the real cost of a home is the cost of traveling to and from work.
  • Visit the home in the rain. Even if you can’t get permission to enter the home on short notice, observe the exterior. Are the gutters and downspouts diverting water away from the home? What does the grading look like? Does the driveway slope away from the garage? How about the dirt road to the home—what does it look like in the rain?
  • Walk the neighborhood. Don’t just drive around in your car. Get out and walk it.
  • Don’t rely solely on the seller’s disclosure. Sellers are under no obligation to disclose problems they don’t know about. And, for that reason, many sellers don’t want to know what is wrong with their house. Hire the InterNACHI inspector to verify what the seller claims in the seller’s disclosure.
  • Ask your seller about any disturbing noises or foul odors. Is there a business nearby that creates emissions? Is the home under an airport route? Is there a train track nearby? How about horse stalls or commercial agriculture? Talk to the neighbors to find out. Visit the home in the middle of a business day. If possible, also park outside the home at night with your car windows rolled down to find out how busy or noisy the area is during the time when it should be most peaceful.
  • Ask to see the utility bills. If you’re moving into a larger home, expect your utility bills to be higher. The InterNACHI home inspector can help you learn about ways to lower your energy costs and minimize your water usage.
  • Make sure the inspection addendum in your purchase agreement gives you the ability to back out of the deal if your inspector finds something horribly wrong. It should also require that your full deposit be returned to you if you decide not to buy the home because of something revealed in the inspection report.
  • Remember that everything is negotiable. Don’t be afraid to ask for anything when you make an offer on a home. Perhaps you want a certain closing date. Ask for that. Perhaps you want certain repairs made. Ask for them. Perhaps you want help with the closing costs. Ask for it. Perhaps you want the seller to leave the drapes or the couch. Ask for them to be left with the home. Don’t be shy. Buying a home is a business deal, and negotiating is a normal part of any business deal. And, of course, never assume that any personal property (such as appliances, curtain rods, swing sets, the dog house, etc.) will be left behind if you haven’t agreed in writing that they’re included as part of the sale.
  • Pay a little extra for an InterNACHI-Certified Professional Inspector®. Buying a home is probably the most expensive purchase you’ll ever make. This is no time to shop for a cheap inspection. The cost of a home inspection is very small relative to the value of the home being inspected. The additional cost of hiring anInterNACHI-Certified Professional Inspector® is almost insignificant by comparison. You’ve been recently crunching the numbers—shopping for a mortgage, adding up closing costs, and negotiating offers—and trying to get the best deals. Don’t stop now. Don’t let your real estate agent, a “patty-cake” inspector, or anyone else talk you into skimping on the home inspection. InterNACHI-Certified Professional Inspectors® perform the best inspections by far. InterNACHI-Certified Professional Inspectors® earn their fees many times over. As the most qualified inspectors, they do more, they deserve more, and—yes—they generally charge a little more. Do yourself a favor and pay a little more for the quality inspection you deserve so that you can make a confident decision with peace of mind.
  • Remember that no home is perfect, not even a new one. Don’t make the mistake of not getting a home inspection on a newly-constructed home. Houses aren’t created like new cars on an assembly line. Each home is hand-built by a variety of different tradesmen. If you’re buying a new home, get it inspected by the InterNACHI home inspector.
  • Buying a home can be a stressful process, but your home inspection doesn’t have to be. Your inspection and report, combined with the seller’s disclosure and what you notice yourself, can make the experience overwhelming. Chances are that most of your inspection will be related to maintenance recommendations and minor imperfections. These are good to know about.
    The issues that really matter will fall into four categories:
    • a. major defects, such as a structural failure;
    • b. conditions that can lead to major defects, such as a roof leak;
    • c. issues that may hinder your ability to finance, legally occupy, or insure the home if not rectified immediately; and
    • d. safety hazards, such as an exposed, live buss bar at the electrical panel.
  • Anything in these categories should be addressed as soon as possible. But it’s important to realize that a seller is under no obligation to repair everything mentioned in your inspection report. Most sellers are honest and are often surprised to learn of defects uncovered during an inspection. It’s also inappropriate to demand that the seller address deferred maintenance, conditions already listed in the seller’s disclosure, or nitpicky items. Focus on the possibilities, not the problems. Keep things in perspective, and remember that no home is perfect.

Filed Under: FYI