Optimal Home Inspections

Most Recommended Home Inspector in NJ

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Yard Drainage

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Making sure that your property is sloped to allow proper drainage can mean the difference between a trouble-free rainy season and a flooded basement a few times a year.  Unwanted moisture intrusion—even at a level not serious enough to cause interior flooding—can create insidious problems that will be difficult to completely eliminate, such as weakened structural elements, mold growth, and other damage and health hazards.

Most problems with moisture in basements and crawlspaces are caused by poor site drainage. The ground should slope away from window wells, exterior basement stairs, and other means of egress. The bottom of each of these areas should be sloped to a drain. Each drain should have piping that connects it to a stormwater drainage system (if there is one) or that drains to either a discharge at a lower grade or into a sump pit that collects and discharges the water away from the building. 

Rain:  During the next heavy rainstorm without lightning, grab an umbrella and go outside. Walk around your house and look around at the roof and property. A rainstorm is a perfect time to see how the roof, downspouts, and grading are performing. Observe the drainage patterns of your entire property, as well as the property of your neighbor. The ground around your house should slope away from all sides. Downspouts, surface gutters, and drains should be directing water away from the foundation.

One important maintenance task is to monitor and maintain the drains and piping. Drains and piping should be open and clear of leaves, earth, and debris. A garden hose can be used to check water flow, although its discharge cannot approximate storm conditions. 

House on a Hillside:  Where a building is situated on a hillside, it is more difficult to slope the ground away from the building on all sides. On the high-ground side of the building, the slope of the ground toward the building could be interrupted by a surface drainage system that collects and disposes of rainwater runoff. Swales can be used to direct surface water away from the foundation. There are two general types of surface drainage systems: an open system, consisting of a swale (often referred to as a ditch), sometimes with a culvert at its end to collect and channel water away; and a closed system, consisting of gutters with catch basins.

An Introduction to NJ SOP

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Standards of Practice

13:40-15.16 Standards of Practice

A direct link to the NJ Standards of Practice (SOP) is provided here for your convenience. Section 13:40-15.16 – Standards of practice

Current through Register Vol. 57, No. 12, June 16, 2025

a) All licensees shall comply with the standards of practice contained in this section when conducting home inspections. The scope of home inspection services performed in compliance with the requirements set forth in this section shall provide the client with objective information regarding the condition of the systems and components of the home as determined at the time of the home inspection.

b) Nothing in this section shall be construed to require a licensee to:

1) Enter any area or perform any procedure that is, in the opinion of the home inspector, unsafe and likely to be dangerous to the inspector or other persons;

2) Enter any area or perform any procedure that will, in the opinion of the licensee, likely damage the property or its systems or components;

3) Enter any area which does not have at least 24 inches of unobstructed vertical clearance and at least 30 inches of unobstructed horizontal clearance;

4) Identify concealed conditions and latent defects;

5) Determine life expectancy of any system or component;

6) Determine the cause of any condition or deficiency;

7) Determine future conditions that may occur including the failure of systems and components including consequential damage;

8) Determine the operating costs of systems or components;

9) Determine the suitability of the property for any specialized use;

10) Determine compliance with codes, regulations and/ or ordinances;

11) Determine market value of the property or its marketability;

12) Determine advisability of purchase of the property;

13) Determine the presence of any potentially hazardous plants, animals or diseases or the presence of any suspected hazardous substances or adverse conditions such as mold, fungus, toxins, carcinogens, noise, and contaminants in soil, water, and air;

14) Identify the presence of, or determine the effectiveness of, any system installed or method utilized to control or remove suspected hazardous substances;

15) Operate any system or component which is shut down or otherwise inoperable;

16) Operate any system or component which does not respond to normal operating controls;

17) Operate shut-off valves;

18) Determine whether water supply and waste disposal systems are public or private;

19) Insert any tool, probe or testing device inside electrical panels;

20) Dismantle any electrical device or control other than to remove the covers of main and sub panels;

21) Inspect, identity, or disclose ancillary electrical devices and or/systems, such as, but not limited to, Arc Fault Circuit Interrupters (AFCIs), standby generators, and photovoltaic (solar) panels;

22) Walk on unfloored sections of attics; and

23) Light pilot flames or ignite or extinguish fires.

Filed Under: SOP

NJ Fire Escapes

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The following is reposted from FireEscapesNJ.com as a courtesy only for our clients.

Fire Escapes are outside the scope of a home inspection. Any report or comment is a courtesy only, no guarantees given or liability accepted. Consult a qualified contractor to evaluate all fire escapes and repair if needed before your closing.

NEW JERSEY FIRE ESCAPE CODE 1028.6

EXTERIOR EGRESS ALL EXIT DISCHARGE, EXTERIOR STAIRWAYS AND FIRE ESCAPES SHALL BE KEPT FREE OF SNOW AND ICE. 

ANY NEW JERSEY FIRE ESCAPE OR EXTERIOR STAIRWAY FOUND TO BE IN A STATE OF DETERIORATION OR DETERMINED TO BE UNSAFE BY THE FIRE OFFICIAL SHALL BE REPAIRED IMMEDIATELY.

DEPENDING UPON THE STRUCTURAL CONDITION, A LOAD TEST OF ANY FIRE ESCAPE SHALL BE CONDUCTED BEFORE THE ESCAPE IS RETURNED TO SERVICE IN ACCORDANCE WITH N.J.A.C.5.23, THE UNIFORM CONSTRUCTION CODE.

New Jersey: Section 103.4 Technical assistance. To determine the acceptability of technologies, processes, products, facilities, materials and uses attending the design, operation or use of a building or premises subject to inspection by the fire code official, the fire code official is authorized to require the owner or agent to provide, without charge to the jurisdiction, a technical opinion and report. The opinion and report shall be prepared by a qualified engineer, specialist, laboratory or fire safety specialty organization acceptable to the fire code official and shall analyze the fire safety properties of the design, operation or use of the building or premises and the facilities and appurtenances situated thereon, to recommend necessary changes. The fire code official is authorized to require documentation to be prepared by, and bear the stamp of, a registered design professional.

N.J.A.C 1031.6 Exterior egress. “All exit discharge, exterior stairways and fire escapes shall be kept free of snow and ice. Any fire escape or exterior stairway found to be in a state of deterioration or determined to be unsafe by the fire official shall be repaired immediately. Depending upon the structural condition, a load test of any fire escape shall be conducted before the escape is returned to service in accordance with the N.J.A.C. 5:23, the Uniform Construction Code”.

N.J.A.C 1031.1.1 Storage. “Combustible or flammable material shall not be placed, stored or kept in any portion of an exit, elevator car or hoist way, or at the bottom of a stairway, fire escape or other means of escape, unless such space is enclosed and protected as required by the construction code in effect at the time of first occupancy. Such storage shall be located so the presence or burning of the materials will not obstruct or render hazardous the means of egress.”N.J.A.C 102.1.1 Any dangerous or hazardous conditions that are outlined in 1 through 10 below shall be removed or remedied in accordance with the provisions of N.J.A.C. 5:70-2.10: 3.  Obstruction to or on fire escapes, stairs, passageways, doors or windows, liable to interfere with the egress of occupants or the operation of the fire department in case of fire; NJ Formal Technical Opinion-3 Fire Escapes 

https://www.nj.gov/dca/codes/publications/pdf_fto/fto_3.pdf

NATIONAL CODES:

2012 IFC 1104.16.5.1 Fire escape stairs must be examined every 5 years, by design professional or others acceptable and inspection report must be submitted to the fire code official.

IBC 1001.3.3 All fire escapes shall be examined and/or tested and certified every five years by a design professional or others acceptable who will then submit an affidavit city official.

NFPA LIFE SAFETY CODE 101  7.2.8.6.2 The Authority Having Jurisdiction (AHJ) shall approve any fire escape by Load Test or other evidence of strength (Certification).

OSHA 1910.37 Exit routes must be maintained during construction, repairs, alterations or provide alternative egress with equivalent level of safety. (permit issued if egress is certified or with egress scaffolding) 

FIVE STEPS to Certify a Fire Escape:

  1. Schedule a pre load test evaluation by a design professional or others acceptable by City Official – AHJ (Authority Having Jurisdiction)
  2. Said professional will confirm with City Official if there are any other requirements other than load testing or other evidence of strength and if City Official wants to witness initial evaluation
  3. Submit evaluation report to owner/agent and a copy to the City Official as per code
  4. Issue certification, if passed, done by load test or other evidence of strength to City Official or, if failed, owner/agent and city official to confirm next steps (ex. engineer oversight, permits or other conditions)
  5. Please contact your local City Official (AHJ) with any questions about the above steps

Home Maintenance Inspection

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Home Maintenance Inspection

For a free consultation about a Home Maintenance Inspection and pricing. Please fill out the information below. This form is for contact and location information only; it is not a commitment to purchase a Home Maintenance Inspection.

Home buying for Newbies

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Yes, I know how exciting buying is! Sometimes a little too exciting.

You’ve come to this post probably cause your offer just got accepted on the home of your dreams, and your attorney, realtor, or someone involved in this transaction has said now is the time for a home inspection. You probably have a small window to get the inspection, and you don’t know where to start. This post is for you.

Should I waive the inspection contingency?

Waiving the contingency in this competitive market is something you need to discuss with your attorney. If you waive the contingency, you should absolutely, positively get an inspection anyway. If something significant comes up in the inspection, you can always walk away. Here is a good article on Inspection Contingencies.

Why get an inspection?

Whether or not you waive the contingency, the home inspection offers valuable insights you can’t get elsewhere and may be your only chance to thoroughly evaluate the property. Qualified inspectors, trained through rigorous education, examine all major systems in the home. In New Jersey, inspectors must complete ongoing education on building components, and specialized training is required for termite inspections and radon measurements.

What about the condition of homes in this market?

I have inspected hundreds of homes in this highly competitive market, and my thoughts on it are as follows. It is a tight market; not many homes are for sale, and prices are high—right, I know, that’s obvious. The homes available for new buyers, who generally don’t have a lot of money, are typically older homes that haven’t been well-maintained—that’s why they are affordable.

Houses, townhouses, apartment condos, and co-ops all age and need maintenance, and eventually need repairs. Every home inspector will tell you no home is perfect. The homes available to first-time homebuyers will probably need repairs. This is where an experienced home inspector comes in. You want an inspector who can identify the minor issues from the truly major problems that can take a lot of money to repair. Your inspector will help open your eyes to the potential issues and put them in perspective for you.

The home is new, should I still get an inspection?

Newly completed homes still need thorough inspections. Builders may insist that the home has passed all municipal inspections and doesn’t require an independent check. However, home inspections focus on different issues than permit or code inspections.

I have found several problems in new homes that town inspectors missed. For example, I test dishwashers to ensure proper function and identify leaks. Many were improperly wired, causing power issues. In one instance, a leaking dishwasher caused a flood in the basement of a new townhouse.

I also test air conditioning when weather permits. After running the AC for about an hour, I discovered a significant leak in the kitchen from a unit mounted in the attic. These examples illustrate the potential issues in newly built homes.

What’s the bottom line?

Always, always get a home inspection! Even if you agreed to waive the contingency, there is so much about the home that you won’t learn unless you hire a licensed home inspector to work with you. Lastly, especially if you are a first-time homebuyer, always accompany the inspector; they will show you what they find and answer all your questions.

Condo vs. Co-op

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The typical first-time buyer seeking to purchase a home in a city will probably consider one of two options: a condominium or a housing cooperative. Although they are similar, condos and co-ops are not the same, and it is essential to understand their differences before buying one.

Susan Isaacs of Slate Properties said many buyers she encounters are minimally informed about condos and even less knowledgeable about co-ops.

“Co-ops are not a housing option that historically are well understood,” she said.

Many people confuse condos with co-ops, thinking they are interchangeable. A condo is a private residence in a multiunit structure that includes ownership of commonly used property. A co-op is also a multiunit building, but that’s where the similarities end. A co-op owner has an interest or share in the entire building and a contract or lease that allows the owner to occupy a unit. While a condo owner owns a unit, a co-op owner does not own the unit.

Co-ops are collectively owned and managed by their residents, who own shares in a nonprofit corporation. The corporation holds the title to the property and grants proprietary leases to residents, Isaacs said. The lease grants permanent rights to residents to live in their units and to use the common elements of the cooperative according to the co-op’s bylaws and regulations.

The first housing cooperatives arrived in New York in the late 1800s, and co-ops remain popular in that city. Thirty percent of all housing there is co-ops, according to the National Association of Housing Cooperatives. Co-ops flourished in Washington starting in the 1920s, particularly along Connecticut Avenue. The first D.C. co-op, the Concord, was introduced in 1891, while it took the first condo 70 more years to arrive on the scene, Isaacs said. Chicago is another city where co-ops are popular.

The difference in costs. Co-ops tend to be cheaper per square foot. They typically offer buyers more control as an individual shareholder and often have lower closing costs.

Condos are often easier to finance. Obtaining a mortgage for a co-op can be tricky. Some lenders shy away from co-ops or require higher down payments.

Condo fees are usually lower. A co-op owner’s monthly fee can include payments for the building’s underlying mortgage and property taxes, amenities, maintenance, utilities and security.

The tax advantages of owning a condo or a co-op are about the same. If the owner has a mortgage, the yearly interest paid on the loan is deductible. Co-op owners also can deduct their share of the mortgage interest paid on the building’s underlying mortgage and their share of property taxes the co-op pays. Property taxes often are lower for co-ops than condos.

Living with the rules. An important distinction between a co-op and a condo is that most co-op associations require a prospective purchaser to be approved by the co-op board. The upside is being able to pick your neighbors. The downside is that when you sell, the board must approve the buyer and that can delay the sale. The board can reject applicants for only two reasons: financial or a refusal to abide by the association’s rules and regulations.

Some people worry that a co-op board has too much power. However, during the financial downturn, co-ops came through better than most condos.

Before the housing bubble burst, most people viewed co-ops as more restrictive, while condos were viewed as “more of a free-for-all,” Isaacs said.

The result, she said, was more condos looked to incorporate rules and restrictions that were previously the exclusive domain of co-ops.

“We’ve seen a number of condo units restrict resales in the first year or two of new ownership, and still others have restrictive leasing structures that have edged over into co-op territory,” Isaacs said.

Can you rent it out? David Howell, a broker and vice president with McEnearney Associates, said, “There’s nothing inherently good or bad about buying one versus the other.”

Howell said that because co-ops tend to have restrictions that limit secondary rentals, residents generally feel more invested in the property, which can foster a strong sense of community among shareholders.

“It is much more challenging for a co-op owner to decide to rent their property,” Howell said. “They typically have to get approval from the co-op board, and sometimes there are stipulations included in ownership documents that prohibit rentals. Buyers really have to understand the restrictions and make the best decision for their situation.”

Your building is your community. Russell Rader, president of the DC Cooperative Housing Coalition, who has lived in the Westmoreland cooperative in Kalorama since 1999, said he was attracted to co-ops precisely because of the community atmosphere they help foster.

“One of the hallmarks of co-ops is that one-for-all, all-for-one philosophy, and that’s definitely been the case with my building,” he said.

Condos and co-ops share several advantages: They are cheaper than buying a house, there’s no yard to mow, and a multiunit building can provide a sense of security and community.

The disadvantages are having to live within proximity of a variety of people, the association’s rules and regulations may feel onerous, and the monthly fees can be high.

Still, people in shared-ownership buildings often watch out for each other’s homes, help each other in times of crisis and develop friendships.

“When I started looking for an apartment I wasn’t initially looking at co-ops. I found it by accident because I liked the Westmoreland and it had a great location and was a historic and classic building,” Rader said. “I don’t think there’s a particular buyer that’s a better fit for a condo or co-op. Anyone who’s looking for a good community to move into is a right fit for a co-op.”

Reposted from The Washington Post article by Lester Davis

Tips For Homebuyers

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Whether you’re a first-time homebuyer or a veteran homeowner downsizing or trading up, these valuable tips can help streamline your real estate transaction by making it go quicker and smoother with the help of your InterNACHI-Certified Professional Inspector®.

  • Use a buyer’s real estate agent. The buyer’s agent has a fiduciary duty to their client, and works only for you— the homebuyer—even if they are paid by the broker who listed the home for the seller.
  • Help your agent help you. Give your real estate agent as much information as possible. Your agent isn’t a mind-reader. Tell your agent what type of home you’re looking for, where you want to live, and how much you want to spend. Be honest with your agent.
  • Go home-shopping during the holidays. Home sellers who list their home for sale just before the holidays are likely desperate to sell. There are also fewer homebuyers to compete with during the holidays. If you want a really good deal, looking for a home during the holidays may be the best way to find one.
  • Test-drive your commute to and from work during peak traffic hours. Is the home you want as close to your workplace time-wise as you thought it was? Part of the real cost of a home is the cost of traveling to and from work.
  • Visit the home in the rain. Even if you can’t get permission to enter the home on short notice, observe the exterior. Are the gutters and downspouts diverting water away from the home? What does the grading look like? Does the driveway slope away from the garage? How about the dirt road to the home—what does it look like in the rain?
  • Walk the neighborhood. Don’t just drive around in your car. Get out and walk it.
  • Don’t rely solely on the seller’s disclosure. Sellers are under no obligation to disclose problems they don’t know about. And, for that reason, many sellers don’t want to know what is wrong with their house. Hire the InterNACHI inspector to verify what the seller claims in the seller’s disclosure.
  • Ask your seller about any disturbing noises or foul odors. Is there a business nearby that creates emissions? Is the home under an airport route? Is there a train track nearby? How about horse stalls or commercial agriculture? Talk to the neighbors to find out. Visit the home in the middle of a business day. If possible, also park outside the home at night with your car windows rolled down to find out how busy or noisy the area is during the time when it should be most peaceful.
  • Ask to see the utility bills. If you’re moving into a larger home, expect your utility bills to be higher. The InterNACHI home inspector can help you learn about ways to lower your energy costs and minimize your water usage.
  • Make sure the inspection addendum in your purchase agreement gives you the ability to back out of the deal if your inspector finds something horribly wrong. It should also require that your full deposit be returned to you if you decide not to buy the home because of something revealed in the inspection report.
  • Remember that everything is negotiable. Don’t be afraid to ask for anything when you make an offer on a home. Perhaps you want a certain closing date. Ask for that. Perhaps you want certain repairs made. Ask for them. Perhaps you want help with the closing costs. Ask for it. Perhaps you want the seller to leave the drapes or the couch. Ask for them to be left with the home. Don’t be shy. Buying a home is a business deal, and negotiating is a normal part of any business deal. And, of course, never assume that any personal property (such as appliances, curtain rods, swing sets, the dog house, etc.) will be left behind if you haven’t agreed in writing that they’re included as part of the sale.
  • Pay a little extra for an InterNACHI-Certified Professional Inspector®. Buying a home is probably the most expensive purchase you’ll ever make. This is no time to shop for a cheap inspection. The cost of a home inspection is very small relative to the value of the home being inspected. The additional cost of hiring anInterNACHI-Certified Professional Inspector® is almost insignificant by comparison. You’ve been recently crunching the numbers—shopping for a mortgage, adding up closing costs, and negotiating offers—and trying to get the best deals. Don’t stop now. Don’t let your real estate agent, a “patty-cake” inspector, or anyone else talk you into skimping on the home inspection. InterNACHI-Certified Professional Inspectors® perform the best inspections by far. InterNACHI-Certified Professional Inspectors® earn their fees many times over. As the most qualified inspectors, they do more, they deserve more, and—yes—they generally charge a little more. Do yourself a favor and pay a little more for the quality inspection you deserve so that you can make a confident decision with peace of mind.
  • Remember that no home is perfect, not even a new one. Don’t make the mistake of not getting a home inspection on a newly-constructed home. Houses aren’t created like new cars on an assembly line. Each home is hand-built by a variety of different tradesmen. If you’re buying a new home, get it inspected by the InterNACHI home inspector.
  • Buying a home can be a stressful process, but your home inspection doesn’t have to be. Your inspection and report, combined with the seller’s disclosure and what you notice yourself, can make the experience overwhelming. Chances are that most of your inspection will be related to maintenance recommendations and minor imperfections. These are good to know about.
    The issues that really matter will fall into four categories:
    • a. major defects, such as a structural failure;
    • b. conditions that can lead to major defects, such as a roof leak;
    • c. issues that may hinder your ability to finance, legally occupy, or insure the home if not rectified immediately; and
    • d. safety hazards, such as an exposed, live buss bar at the electrical panel.
  • Anything in these categories should be addressed as soon as possible. But it’s important to realize that a seller is under no obligation to repair everything mentioned in your inspection report. Most sellers are honest and are often surprised to learn of defects uncovered during an inspection. It’s also inappropriate to demand that the seller address deferred maintenance, conditions already listed in the seller’s disclosure, or nitpicky items. Focus on the possibilities, not the problems. Keep things in perspective, and remember that no home is perfect.

Filed Under: FYI

Bathtub and Showers

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Bathtubs

Bathtubs are made from many different types of materials, including enameled cast-iron, porcelain-enameled steel, and plastic. Plastic tubs are made from materials including ABS, PVC, fiberglass, fiberglass-reinforced plastic, acrylic, and cultured-marble acrylic. Bathtubs that are equipped with shower fixtures should be manufactured with slip-resistant surfaces. Bathtubs should have a drainage outlet (tailpiece) with a minimum diameter of 1-1/2 inches. Every tub should be equipped with a stopper. The bathtub should have an overflow outlet installed. The overflow prevents flooding if the tub is being filled while unattended, and prevents overflow of the water when a person enters a tub that is full.

Fire-Resistance

Bathtubs made of plastic are tested for fire ignition. They are made with fire-resistant chemicals to reduce their fuel contribution in a house fire or an accidental exposure to a plumber’s torch.

Large Bathtub Loads

Some bathtubs are so large that they can accommodate more than one person at a time. These larger bathtubs may need special and additional structural support underneath them to adequately support the load.
A 3×4-foot bathtub may have a capacity to hold 200 gallons or more. The weight of the bathtub, water, and occupants may total over 1 ton, considering:

200 pounds for the bathtub
+ 1,600 pounds of water 
+ 350 pounds for two people
= 2,150 pounds

A very large tub may cause structural problems because live-loading for a typical residential home is 40 pounds per square foot. The live load for a 3×4-foot occupied tub may be assumed to be only 480 pounds but may weigh over 2,000 pounds while it is in use.

Maintenance Tips

The homeowner should make sure that the tub is free of cracks, rust and other staining, and that all edges, gaps and surrounding tile are adequately caulked to ensure that moisture cannot leach behind the tile work and drywall, which can lead to leaks and structural damage behind walls that won’t be evident until the issue becomes extensive and expensive to fix.

Showers

Plastic, pre-fabricated shower units are constructed of various synthetic materials, including ABS, PVC, gel-coated fiberglass-reinforced plastic, cultured marble, cast-filled fiberglass, polyester, cultured marble acrylic, and acrylic. These shower units are impregnated with fire-retardant chemicals to reduce the fuel contribution during a fire and protect against an accidental burn by a plumber’s torch.

The showerhead height is not typically regulated by building codes, but the head is commonly installed 70 to 80 inches above the shower floor.

Shower Water Pipes

Water-supply pipes from the shower valve to the showerhead outlet — referred to as the shower riser pipes — whether exposed or not, must be firmly attached to a structural component to prevent the pipes from leaking caused by stress fractures or joint failures. Movement of the showerhead may move the riser piping, possibly causing failure of the piping. The risers must be firmly secured.

The common practice for installing the riser pipe is to place a drop-ear elbow at the top of the riser pipe. The elbow has two wing connections. They can be screwed to a structural backing board, such as a 2×4. A pipe strap can be used instead of a drop-ear elbow. When the riser is exposed, the manufacturer will typically provide a strap or attachment device to match the finish of the fixture and pipe. The strap or attachment device should be firmly secured to a structural component.

Shower Outlets

The waste outlet for a shower should have a minimum diameter of 1-1/2 inches. The shower outlet should have a strainer that is at least 3 inches in diameter, with dimensional openings in the strainer of at least a 1/4-inch. The strainer should be removable.

Shower Area

A shower compartment should have an interior cross-sectional area of at least 900 square inches. This will allow an average-sized adult to clean the lower body while bending over. A shower that’s any smaller would be inadequately sized. Shower compartments should be at least 30 inches in minimum dimension. This measurement is based on the movement of an adult body inside a shower and measured from the finished interior dimension of the compartment, excluding fixture valves, showerheads, soap dishes, and grab bars. There are exceptions for showers having fold-down seats, and those with compartments at least 25 inches wide and 1,300 square inches in cross-sectional area.

The exception allows for a shower with one dimension being 25 inches, provided the compartment has at least 1,300 square inches of cross-sectional area. This is useful to contractors and DIY homeowners who remove an old bathtub and install a standup shower fixture in the same space.

Shower Walls

Showers and bathtubs with installed shower heads should be finished with a non-absorbent surface that shall extend to a height of not less than 6 feet above the floor level of the room or 70 inches above the shower floor. It should be constructed of smooth, corrosion-resistant, and non-absorbent materials to protect the structural components from moisture damage. The gypsum or cement wallboard behind ceramic tiles of a shower wall should be water-resistant. The water-resistant material is not required in the rest of the bathroom, although it is a common practice to use water-resistant gypsum wallboard in other areas of the bathroom because of the moisture levels.

Shower Access and Egress Opening

Many injuries in a home are related to accidents in the bathtub or shower. The minimum opening requirements for access and egress allows an adult enough room to safely step into and exit the shower area without having to twist or turn through a narrow opening. The shower opening (or access and egress opening) should be at least 22 inches of clear and unobstructed finish width. The 22-inch width is based on the approximate shoulder width of an average-sized adult and provides comfortable access to service the valves, showerheads, and drain. It allows for emergency response and rescue access, and emergency egress.

Shower Floors

The shower floor surface must be watertight with smooth, corrosion-resistant, non-absorbent, waterproof materials. Joints between the floor and walls of the shower must be sealed or flashed to prevent water penetration. Ideally, there should be some type of slip-resistant floor surface. The shower floor structure needs proper support by a smooth and structurally sound base. The base of the shower floor should be designed to support both dead (structural) and live (people and water) loads.

Shower pans and liners are installed under and around showers to prevent moisture intrusion from getting into the structural supports under and behind the shower enclosure. They must meet specific standards for material, installation, and size in order to support both dead and live loads.

Shower Glazing

Glass doors enclosing the shower should be made of safety glazing. If a window is installed in the shower, the window should be made of safety glazing to provide protection. If a person slips or falls inside the shower, s/he may be seriously injured by the broken glass if the glass is not made of safety glazing. The safety glazing should be correctly labeled by being permanently marked in a corner, legible and visible after installation, and indoor applications should be marked “indoor use only.”

Maintenance Tips

Similar to other bathroom fixtures, the homeowner should make sure that the shower is free of cracks, rust, and other staining, and that all edges, gaps, and surrounding tile are adequately caulked to ensure that moisture cannot leach behind the tile work and drywall, which can lead to leaks and structural damage behind walls that won’t be evident until the issue becomes extensive and expensive to fix. Additionally, if the glazing for the showers doors is damaged, it should be replaced, as cracked glazing can break without notice and cause serious injuries.

Bathroom Sinks (Lavatories)

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Lavatories

A lavatory is a washbasin or sink located in a bathroom or washroom. “Lavatory” means washbasin or sink, and is derived from the Latin word lavatorium, which means washing vessel, and the French word laver, meaning “to wash.” Lavatories come in a variety of shapes and sizes. They are available in enameled cast-iron, vitreous china, stainless steel, porcelain-enameled formed steel, plastic, and non-vitreous ceramic. They can be a wall-mounted, hanger-mounted, under-mounted, pedestal, rimmed, and above-center basin types.

Countertops integrated with lavatories are constructed of a variety of materials, including ABS, PVC, gel-coated fiberglass-reinforced plastic, acrylic, polyester, and cultured marble. Plastic vanity tops should be impregnated with fire-resistant chemicals to reduce the fuel contribution of the lavatory during a house fire or the accidental fire from a plumber’s torch. They are also made to resist the effect of a burning cigarette left unattended on the vanity top.

Lavatories should have a waste outlet of at least 1-1/4 inches in diameter. Each lavatory must have a strainer, a pop-up stopper, a crossbar, or other mechanisms to prevent items such as rings, toothbrushes, and cosmetic items from dropping into the drain.

Lavatory Overflows

Former standards required lavatories to have an overflow, but that is no longer the case. An overflow is now an option of the manufacturer. The reason for not requiring an overflow at a lavatory is because of the lack of use of the overflow, which can cause bacterial and micro-organism growth.

Where a lavatory does have an overflow installed, the cross-sectional area of the overflow should be a minimum of 1-1/8 inches; anything larger can promote bacterial and micro-organism growth. The overflow should be able to prevent overflowing of the sink for a minimum of five minutes when tested from the onset of water flowing into the overflow’s opening.

Maintenance Tips

There are many different designs of lavatories, including artisanal styles that sit upon the vanity, rather than being dropped into a recessed cavity in the vanity or countertop.  Regardless of the style or whether it includes an overflow opening, the washbasin should be securely attached to the vanity, be free of cracks and other defects, and have gaps that are properly caulked to prevent moisture buildup, which can lead to unsanitary conditions, including mold growth.