Optimal Home Inspections

Most Recommended Home Inspector in NJ

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Home buying for Newbies

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Yes, I know how exciting buying is! Sometimes a little too exciting.

You’ve come to this post probably cause your offer just got accepted on the home of your dreams, and your attorney, realtor, or someone involved in this transaction has said now is the time for a home inspection. You probably have a small window to get the inspection, and you don’t know where to start. This post is for you.

Should I waive the inspection contingency?

Waiving the contingency in this competitive market is something you need to discuss with your attorney. If you waive the contingency, you should absolutely, positively get an inspection anyway. If something significant comes up in the inspection, you can always walk away. Here is a good article on Inspection Contingencies here.

Why get an inspection?

Waiving the contingency or not, the inspection will give you a lot of information you can’t get any other way. The inspection may be the only time you will get a reasonable amount of time to explore the home. Every major system in and around the house is inspected by someone who has gone through intense classes and supervised mentoring. All New Jersey home inspectors must earn continuing education in all aspects of buildings components and systems. If they offer termite inspections and radon measurement, there are special licensing and continuing education for those inspections too.

What about the condition of homes in this market?

I have inspected hundreds of homes in this very competitive market, and my take on it is here. It is a very tight market, not many homes are for sale, and prices are high – right, I know, obvious. The homes that are available for newbies, who generally don’t have a lot of money, are typically older homes that have not been very well taken care of – that’s why they are affordable.

Houses, townhouses, apartment condos, and co-ops all age and need maintenance, and eventually need repairs. Every home inspector will tell you no home is perfect. The homes available to first-time homebuyers will probably need repairs. This is where an experienced home inspector comes in. You want an inspector who can identify the minor issues from the truly major problems that can take a lot of money to repair. Your inspector will help open your eyes to the potential issues and put them in perspective for you.

The home is new, should I still get an inspection?

New homes just completed by a builder still need an inspection! Builders will say that the home has passed all its required inspections by the municipality, so it doesn’t need a home inspection. Still, a home inspection is not a permit or code inspection; we look for different issues. Two quick examples of what I discovered at new homes that the town inspector passed. I test dishwashers to ensure they work and don’t leak. I have found many with no power – they were just put in place but never wired. I found one leaking water and flooding the basement of a new townhouse. I also test air conditioning when the temperature permits; after running the AC for about an hour, I discovered a large puddle of water in the kitchen under where the AC unit was mounted in the attic. These are just two examples of the many issues found at new homes.

What’s the bottom line?

Always, always get a home inspection! Even if you agreed to waive the contingency, there is so much about the home that you won’t learn unless you hire a licensed home inspector to work with you. Lastly, especially if you are a first-time homebuyer, always tag along with the inspector; they will show you what they find and answer all your questions.

Condo vs. Co-op

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The typical first-time buyer seeking to purchase a home in a city will probably consider one of two options: a condominium or a housing cooperative. Although they are similar, condos and co-ops are not the same, and it is essential to understand their differences before buying one.

Susan Isaacs of Slate Properties said many buyers she encounters are minimally informed about condos and even less knowledgeable about co-ops.

“Co-ops are not a housing option that historically are well understood,” she said.

Many people confuse condos with co-ops, thinking they are interchangeable. A condo is a private residence in a multiunit structure that includes ownership of commonly used property. A co-op is also a multiunit building, but that’s where the similarities end. A co-op owner has an interest or share in the entire building and a contract or lease that allows the owner to occupy a unit. While a condo owner owns a unit, a co-op owner does not own the unit.

Co-ops are collectively owned and managed by their residents, who own shares in a nonprofit corporation. The corporation holds the title to the property and grants proprietary leases to residents, Isaacs said. The lease grants permanent rights to residents to live in their units and to use the common elements of the cooperative according to the co-op’s bylaws and regulations.

The first housing cooperatives arrived in New York in the late 1800s, and co-ops remain popular in that city. Thirty percent of all housing there is co-ops, according to the National Association of Housing Cooperatives. Co-ops flourished in Washington starting in the 1920s, particularly along Connecticut Avenue. The first D.C. co-op, the Concord, was introduced in 1891, while it took the first condo 70 more years to arrive on the scene, Isaacs said. Chicago is another city where co-ops are popular.

The difference in costs. Co-ops tend to be cheaper per square foot. They typically offer buyers more control as an individual shareholder and often have lower closing costs.

Condos are often easier to finance. Obtaining a mortgage for a co-op can be tricky. Some lenders shy away from co-ops or require higher down payments.

Condo fees are usually lower. A co-op owner’s monthly fee can include payments for the building’s underlying mortgage and property taxes, amenities, maintenance, utilities and security.

The tax advantages of owning a condo or a co-op are about the same. If the owner has a mortgage, the yearly interest paid on the loan is deductible. Co-op owners also can deduct their share of the mortgage interest paid on the building’s underlying mortgage and their share of property taxes the co-op pays. Property taxes often are lower for co-ops than condos.

Living with the rules. An important distinction between a co-op and a condo is that most co-op associations require a prospective purchaser to be approved by the co-op board. The upside is being able to pick your neighbors. The downside is that when you sell, the board must approve the buyer and that can delay the sale. The board can reject applicants for only two reasons: financial or a refusal to abide by the association’s rules and regulations.

Some people worry that a co-op board has too much power. However, during the financial downturn, co-ops came through better than most condos.

Before the housing bubble burst, most people viewed co-ops as more restrictive, while condos were viewed as “more of a free-for-all,” Isaacs said.

The result, she said, was more condos looked to incorporate rules and restrictions that were previously the exclusive domain of co-ops.

“We’ve seen a number of condo units restrict resales in the first year or two of new ownership, and still others have restrictive leasing structures that have edged over into co-op territory,” Isaacs said.

Can you rent it out? David Howell, a broker and vice president with McEnearney Associates, said, “There’s nothing inherently good or bad about buying one versus the other.”

Howell said that because co-ops tend to have restrictions that limit secondary rentals, residents generally feel more invested in the property, which can foster a strong sense of community among shareholders.

“It is much more challenging for a co-op owner to decide to rent their property,” Howell said. “They typically have to get approval from the co-op board, and sometimes there are stipulations included in ownership documents that prohibit rentals. Buyers really have to understand the restrictions and make the best decision for their situation.”

Your building is your community. Russell Rader, president of the DC Cooperative Housing Coalition, who has lived in the Westmoreland cooperative in Kalorama since 1999, said he was attracted to co-ops precisely because of the community atmosphere they help foster.

“One of the hallmarks of co-ops is that one-for-all, all-for-one philosophy, and that’s definitely been the case with my building,” he said.

Condos and co-ops share several advantages: They are cheaper than buying a house, there’s no yard to mow, and a multiunit building can provide a sense of security and community.

The disadvantages are having to live within proximity of a variety of people, the association’s rules and regulations may feel onerous, and the monthly fees can be high.

Still, people in shared-ownership buildings often watch out for each other’s homes, help each other in times of crisis and develop friendships.

“When I started looking for an apartment I wasn’t initially looking at co-ops. I found it by accident because I liked the Westmoreland and it had a great location and was a historic and classic building,” Rader said. “I don’t think there’s a particular buyer that’s a better fit for a condo or co-op. Anyone who’s looking for a good community to move into is a right fit for a co-op.”

Reposted from The Washington Post article by Lester Davis

Tips For Homebuyers

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Whether you’re a first-time homebuyer or a veteran homeowner downsizing or trading up, these valuable tips can help streamline your real estate transaction by making it go quicker and smoother with the help of your InterNACHI-Certified Professional Inspector®.

  • Use a buyer’s real estate agent. The buyer’s agent has a fiduciary duty to their client, and works only for you— the homebuyer—even if they are paid by the broker who listed the home for the seller.
  • Help your agent help you. Give your real estate agent as much information as possible. Your agent isn’t a mind-reader. Tell your agent what type of home you’re looking for, where you want to live, and how much you want to spend. Be honest with your agent.
  • Go home-shopping during the holidays. Home sellers who list their home for sale just before the holidays are likely desperate to sell. There are also fewer homebuyers to compete with during the holidays. If you want a really good deal, looking for a home during the holidays may be the best way to find one.
  • Test-drive your commute to and from work during peak traffic hours. Is the home you want as close to your workplace time-wise as you thought it was? Part of the real cost of a home is the cost of traveling to and from work.
  • Visit the home in the rain. Even if you can’t get permission to enter the home on short notice, observe the exterior. Are the gutters and downspouts diverting water away from the home? What does the grading look like? Does the driveway slope away from the garage? How about the dirt road to the home—what does it look like in the rain?
  • Walk the neighborhood. Don’t just drive around in your car. Get out and walk it.
  • Don’t rely solely on the seller’s disclosure. Sellers are under no obligation to disclose problems they don’t know about. And, for that reason, many sellers don’t want to know what is wrong with their house. Hire the InterNACHI inspector to verify what the seller claims in the seller’s disclosure.
  • Ask your seller about any disturbing noises or foul odors. Is there a business nearby that creates emissions? Is the home under an airport route? Is there a train track nearby? How about horse stalls or commercial agriculture? Talk to the neighbors to find out. Visit the home in the middle of a business day. If possible, also park outside the home at night with your car windows rolled down to find out how busy or noisy the area is during the time when it should be most peaceful.
  • Ask to see the utility bills. If you’re moving into a larger home, expect your utility bills to be higher. The InterNACHI home inspector can help you learn about ways to lower your energy costs and minimize your water usage.
  • Make sure the inspection addendum in your purchase agreement gives you the ability to back out of the deal if your inspector finds something horribly wrong. It should also require that your full deposit be returned to you if you decide not to buy the home because of something revealed in the inspection report.
  • Remember that everything is negotiable. Don’t be afraid to ask for anything when you make an offer on a home. Perhaps you want a certain closing date. Ask for that. Perhaps you want certain repairs made. Ask for them. Perhaps you want help with the closing costs. Ask for it. Perhaps you want the seller to leave the drapes or the couch. Ask for them to be left with the home. Don’t be shy. Buying a home is a business deal, and negotiating is a normal part of any business deal. And, of course, never assume that any personal property (such as appliances, curtain rods, swing sets, the dog house, etc.) will be left behind if you haven’t agreed in writing that they’re included as part of the sale.
  • Pay a little extra for an InterNACHI-Certified Professional Inspector®. Buying a home is probably the most expensive purchase you’ll ever make. This is no time to shop for a cheap inspection. The cost of a home inspection is very small relative to the value of the home being inspected. The additional cost of hiring anInterNACHI-Certified Professional Inspector® is almost insignificant by comparison. You’ve been recently crunching the numbers—shopping for a mortgage, adding up closing costs, and negotiating offers—and trying to get the best deals. Don’t stop now. Don’t let your real estate agent, a “patty-cake” inspector, or anyone else talk you into skimping on the home inspection. InterNACHI-Certified Professional Inspectors® perform the best inspections by far. InterNACHI-Certified Professional Inspectors® earn their fees many times over. As the most qualified inspectors, they do more, they deserve more, and—yes—they generally charge a little more. Do yourself a favor and pay a little more for the quality inspection you deserve so that you can make a confident decision with peace of mind.
  • Remember that no home is perfect, not even a new one. Don’t make the mistake of not getting a home inspection on a newly-constructed home. Houses aren’t created like new cars on an assembly line. Each home is hand-built by a variety of different tradesmen. If you’re buying a new home, get it inspected by the InterNACHI home inspector.
  • Buying a home can be a stressful process, but your home inspection doesn’t have to be. Your inspection and report, combined with the seller’s disclosure and what you notice yourself, can make the experience overwhelming. Chances are that most of your inspection will be related to maintenance recommendations and minor imperfections. These are good to know about.
    The issues that really matter will fall into four categories:
    • a. major defects, such as a structural failure;
    • b. conditions that can lead to major defects, such as a roof leak;
    • c. issues that may hinder your ability to finance, legally occupy, or insure the home if not rectified immediately; and
    • d. safety hazards, such as an exposed, live buss bar at the electrical panel.
  • Anything in these categories should be addressed as soon as possible. But it’s important to realize that a seller is under no obligation to repair everything mentioned in your inspection report. Most sellers are honest and are often surprised to learn of defects uncovered during an inspection. It’s also inappropriate to demand that the seller address deferred maintenance, conditions already listed in the seller’s disclosure, or nitpicky items. Focus on the possibilities, not the problems. Keep things in perspective, and remember that no home is perfect.

Filed Under: FYI

Bathtub and Showers

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Bathtubs

Bathtubs are made from many different types of materials, including enameled cast-iron, porcelain-enameled steel, and plastic. Plastic tubs are made from materials including ABS, PVC, fiberglass, fiberglass-reinforced plastic, acrylic, and cultured-marble acrylic. Bathtubs that are equipped with shower fixtures should be manufactured with slip-resistant surfaces. Bathtubs should have a drainage outlet (tailpiece) with a minimum diameter of 1-1/2 inches. Every tub should be equipped with a stopper. The bathtub should have an overflow outlet installed. The overflow prevents flooding if the tub is being filled while unattended, and prevents overflow of the water when a person enters a tub that is full.

Fire-Resistance

Bathtubs made of plastic are tested for fire ignition. They are made with fire-resistant chemicals to reduce their fuel contribution in a house fire or an accidental exposure to a plumber’s torch.

Large Bathtub Loads

Some bathtubs are so large that they can accommodate more than one person at a time. These larger bathtubs may need special and additional structural support underneath them to adequately support the load.
A 3×4-foot bathtub may have a capacity to hold 200 gallons or more. The weight of the bathtub, water, and occupants may total over 1 ton, considering:

200 pounds for the bathtub
+ 1,600 pounds of water 
+ 350 pounds for two people
= 2,150 pounds

A very large tub may cause structural problems because live-loading for a typical residential home is 40 pounds per square foot. The live load for a 3×4-foot occupied tub may be assumed to be only 480 pounds but may weigh over 2,000 pounds while it is in use.

Maintenance Tips

The homeowner should make sure that the tub is free of cracks, rust and other staining, and that all edges, gaps and surrounding tile are adequately caulked to ensure that moisture cannot leach behind the tile work and drywall, which can lead to leaks and structural damage behind walls that won’t be evident until the issue becomes extensive and expensive to fix.

Showers

Plastic, pre-fabricated shower units are constructed of various synthetic materials, including ABS, PVC, gel-coated fiberglass-reinforced plastic, cultured marble, cast-filled fiberglass, polyester, cultured marble acrylic, and acrylic. These shower units are impregnated with fire-retardant chemicals to reduce the fuel contribution during a fire and protect against an accidental burn by a plumber’s torch.

The showerhead height is not typically regulated by building codes, but the head is commonly installed 70 to 80 inches above the shower floor.

Shower Water Pipes

Water-supply pipes from the shower valve to the showerhead outlet — referred to as the shower riser pipes — whether exposed or not, must be firmly attached to a structural component to prevent the pipes from leaking caused by stress fractures or joint failures. Movement of the showerhead may move the riser piping, possibly causing failure of the piping. The risers must be firmly secured.

The common practice for installing the riser pipe is to place a drop-ear elbow at the top of the riser pipe. The elbow has two wing connections. They can be screwed to a structural backing board, such as a 2×4. A pipe strap can be used instead of a drop-ear elbow. When the riser is exposed, the manufacturer will typically provide a strap or attachment device to match the finish of the fixture and pipe. The strap or attachment device should be firmly secured to a structural component.

Shower Outlets

The waste outlet for a shower should have a minimum diameter of 1-1/2 inches. The shower outlet should have a strainer that is at least 3 inches in diameter, with dimensional openings in the strainer of at least a 1/4-inch. The strainer should be removable.

Shower Area

A shower compartment should have an interior cross-sectional area of at least 900 square inches. This will allow an average-sized adult to clean the lower body while bending over. A shower that’s any smaller would be inadequately sized. Shower compartments should be at least 30 inches in minimum dimension. This measurement is based on the movement of an adult body inside a shower and measured from the finished interior dimension of the compartment, excluding fixture valves, showerheads, soap dishes, and grab bars. There are exceptions for showers having fold-down seats, and those with compartments at least 25 inches wide and 1,300 square inches in cross-sectional area.

The exception allows for a shower with one dimension being 25 inches, provided the compartment has at least 1,300 square inches of cross-sectional area. This is useful to contractors and DIY homeowners who remove an old bathtub and install a standup shower fixture in the same space.

Shower Walls

Showers and bathtubs with installed shower heads should be finished with a non-absorbent surface that shall extend to a height of not less than 6 feet above the floor level of the room or 70 inches above the shower floor. It should be constructed of smooth, corrosion-resistant, and non-absorbent materials to protect the structural components from moisture damage. The gypsum or cement wallboard behind ceramic tiles of a shower wall should be water-resistant. The water-resistant material is not required in the rest of the bathroom, although it is a common practice to use water-resistant gypsum wallboard in other areas of the bathroom because of the moisture levels.

Shower Access and Egress Opening

Many injuries in a home are related to accidents in the bathtub or shower. The minimum opening requirements for access and egress allows an adult enough room to safely step into and exit the shower area without having to twist or turn through a narrow opening. The shower opening (or access and egress opening) should be at least 22 inches of clear and unobstructed finish width. The 22-inch width is based on the approximate shoulder width of an average-sized adult and provides comfortable access to service the valves, showerheads, and drain. It allows for emergency response and rescue access, and emergency egress.

Shower Floors

The shower floor surface must be watertight with smooth, corrosion-resistant, non-absorbent, waterproof materials. Joints between the floor and walls of the shower must be sealed or flashed to prevent water penetration. Ideally, there should be some type of slip-resistant floor surface. The shower floor structure needs proper support by a smooth and structurally sound base. The base of the shower floor should be designed to support both dead (structural) and live (people and water) loads.

Shower pans and liners are installed under and around showers to prevent moisture intrusion from getting into the structural supports under and behind the shower enclosure. They must meet specific standards for material, installation, and size in order to support both dead and live loads.

Shower Glazing

Glass doors enclosing the shower should be made of safety glazing. If a window is installed in the shower, the window should be made of safety glazing to provide protection. If a person slips or falls inside the shower, s/he may be seriously injured by the broken glass if the glass is not made of safety glazing. The safety glazing should be correctly labeled by being permanently marked in a corner, legible and visible after installation, and indoor applications should be marked “indoor use only.”

Maintenance Tips

Similar to other bathroom fixtures, the homeowner should make sure that the shower is free of cracks, rust, and other staining, and that all edges, gaps, and surrounding tile are adequately caulked to ensure that moisture cannot leach behind the tile work and drywall, which can lead to leaks and structural damage behind walls that won’t be evident until the issue becomes extensive and expensive to fix. Additionally, if the glazing for the showers doors is damaged, it should be replaced, as cracked glazing can break without notice and cause serious injuries.

Bathroom Sinks (Lavatories)

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Lavatories

A lavatory is a washbasin or sink located in a bathroom or washroom. “Lavatory” means washbasin or sink, and is derived from the Latin word lavatorium, which means washing vessel, and the French word laver, meaning “to wash.” Lavatories come in a variety of shapes and sizes. They are available in enameled cast-iron, vitreous china, stainless steel, porcelain-enameled formed steel, plastic, and non-vitreous ceramic. They can be a wall-mounted, hanger-mounted, under-mounted, pedestal, rimmed, and above-center basin types.

Countertops integrated with lavatories are constructed of a variety of materials, including ABS, PVC, gel-coated fiberglass-reinforced plastic, acrylic, polyester, and cultured marble. Plastic vanity tops should be impregnated with fire-resistant chemicals to reduce the fuel contribution of the lavatory during a house fire or the accidental fire from a plumber’s torch. They are also made to resist the effect of a burning cigarette left unattended on the vanity top.

Lavatories should have a waste outlet of at least 1-1/4 inches in diameter. Each lavatory must have a strainer, a pop-up stopper, a crossbar, or other mechanisms to prevent items such as rings, toothbrushes, and cosmetic items from dropping into the drain.

Lavatory Overflows

Former standards required lavatories to have an overflow, but that is no longer the case. An overflow is now an option of the manufacturer. The reason for not requiring an overflow at a lavatory is because of the lack of use of the overflow, which can cause bacterial and micro-organism growth.

Where a lavatory does have an overflow installed, the cross-sectional area of the overflow should be a minimum of 1-1/8 inches; anything larger can promote bacterial and micro-organism growth. The overflow should be able to prevent overflowing of the sink for a minimum of five minutes when tested from the onset of water flowing into the overflow’s opening.

Maintenance Tips

There are many different designs of lavatories, including artisanal styles that sit upon the vanity, rather than being dropped into a recessed cavity in the vanity or countertop.  Regardless of the style or whether it includes an overflow opening, the washbasin should be securely attached to the vanity, be free of cracks and other defects, and have gaps that are properly caulked to prevent moisture buildup, which can lead to unsanitary conditions, including mold growth.

Toilets and Bidets

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A water closet in the U.S. is commonly referred to as a toilet.  The term “water closet” originates from the time when plumbing was brought indoors, and defecation took place in a small, closet-size room with a pot.

Toilet Styles 

There are three styles of water closets: close-coupled, one-piece, and flushometer valve. The most common is the close-coupled water closet, which has a bowl and separate gravity-type tank or flushometer tank that is supported by the bowl. A one-piece water closet is constructed with the gravity-type tank or flushometer tank and bowl as one integral unit. A flushometer-valve water closet is a bowl with a flushometer valve. Water closet bowls come in six styles: blow-out, siphon jet, reverse trap, wash-down, siphon vortex, and siphon wash.

  • Close-coupled toilet
  • One-piece toilet
  • Flushometer valve toilet

Toilet Measurements

A water closet has a water consumption limit of a maximum average of 1.6 gallons of water per flush. The general bowl rim height above the floor is between 14 and 15 inches.  Other rim heights may be needed for water closets used by children (10 inches), and the elderly and persons with physical disabilities (18 inches).  Elongated water closet bowls are required for public or employee use but are often installed in homes.  An elongated bowl is 2 inches longer than a regular bowl.  

Defects at Toilets

The water closet (toilet) may have a clogged drain. While flushing the toilet, watch the flush performance, and use toilet paper as part of this test. There should be no excessive odors around the water closet. Check the flooring around the toilet with your foot. Using the side of your leg, check to see if the toilet is securely attached to the floor. If it wobbles, the screws at the base may be loose, or the wax ring that adheres the fixture to the waste pipe may be worn or of the wrong size. If so, it should be replaced. Look for dampness around the bottom of the toilet base. Toilets sometimes run continuously. Check for a water shut-off valve. Some toilets are mistakenly connected to the hot water system. Tank lids are often cracked. Any defective parts should be immediately replaced to avoid backup flooding.

Bidets

Bidet

Common in much of Europe and Asia, bidets are toilet-like plumbing fixtures designed to promote posterior hygiene. They’re becoming increasingly common in North America. Contrary to popular belief, a bidet is not an alternative to a toilet. Its purpose is as a hygiene device following toilet use. However, some bidets have been incorporated into toilets, especially in bathrooms that are not large enough for both fixtures.

Bidets, like toilets, are typically made from porcelain and contain a deep recess within a wide rim. They emit an arc of clean water from a nozzle that may be located beneath the rear of the rim or deep within the fixture’s cavity. Users can sit on the rim (or seat, if it has one), or straddle the fixture and face in either direction. He or she can decide which direction to face based on the water jet configuration and the part of their body that needs cleaning. Water temperature and pressure can be adjusted with knobs in order to arrive at the desired settings.

Some bidets come with built-in air dryers. Toilet paper can be used for this purpose if no dryer is available. The bidet can be rinsed after use to keep it clean.

Benefits

  • People who suffer from hemorrhoids, irritable bowel syndrome, or have recently had surgery can find relief with the more gentle water flow of a bidet.
  • As the bidet requires less operator mobility, they are easier to use for the elderly, disabled and obese.
  • Many believe that the use of bidets is more hygienic and effective than toilet paper.

Safety Precautions

  • Users should familiarize themselves with the rate of temperature and pressure changes that occur when they adjust the controls. Sensitive regions can be burned if the user is not careful, and high water pressure can be irritating.
  • Users should know in advance the direction of the water arc and position themselves accordingly. The spray can be powerful enough to strike a person in the face.

Water Heaters

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A water heater is an appliance that heats potable water and supplies heated water to the home’s plumbing distribution system.  Most tanks are insulated steel cylinders with an enamel coating on the inner surface. They are referred to as glass-lined tanks. The lining helps prevent corrosion.  A water heater can literally explode if it’s not installed properly. There are standards that regulate the materials, design, and installation of water heaters and their related safety devices. Certification marks on them from approved agencies indicate compliance with approved standards.

Conventional residential water heaters have life expectancies that vary greatly.  The typical water heater has a lifespan of about 10 years, based on the following factors: correct installation; usage volume; construction quality; and maintenance.

Correct Installation

A water heater should generally be installed upright. Installing a water heater on its side will place structural stress on it due to inadequate support for the heater and its pipes, and may cause premature failure.  Water heaters should be installed in well-ventilated areas — not just for fire safety requirements and nitrous-oxide buildup, but also because poor ventilation can shorten its lifespan.  A water heater should also not be placed in an area susceptible to flood damage. Water can rust out the exterior and pipes, decreasing the life expectancy and efficiency of the unit.  A water heater is best placed in an easily accessible area for maintenance.  It should also be readily visible for fire and health-hazard requirements.

Usage

The life expectancy of the water heater depends a great deal on the volume of water used. Using large quantities of water means that the water heater will have to work harder to heat the water. In addition, the greater the volume of water, the greater the corrosive effect of the water will be on the tank materials, pipes, etc.

Construction Quality

As with most household systems and components, you get what you pay for in a water heater. Cheaper models will generally have a shorter lifespan, while more expensive models will generally last longer. A good indication of a water heater’s construction quality is its warranty.  Longer warranties naturally imply sound construction. According to a 2007 Consumer Report that deconstructed 18 different models of water heaters, it was determined that models with longer warranties were of superior manufacturing quality, with nine- and 12-year models typically having larger or higher-wattage heating elements, as well as thicker insulation. Models with larger heating elements have much better resistance to mineral buildup or scum. 

Pay attention to the model’s features.  For example, porcelain casing provides an additional layer of protection against rusting, and a greater level of heat insulation. Some models come with a self-cleaning feature that flushes the pipes of mineral deposit buildup, which can affect the unit’s lifespan.  Models with larger or thicker anodes are better equipped to fight corrosion.

Maintenance and Parts Replacement

The hardness of the water is another consideration when looking at estimating the lifespan of a water heater.  In areas where there is a higher mineral content to the water, water heaters have shorter a lifespan than in other areas, as mineral buildup reduces the units’ efficiency. Even in areas where the water is softer, however, some mineral deposition is bound to occur.  A way to counteract this mineral buildup is to periodically flush the water heater system, which not only removes some of the buildup but, in tank systems, the process heats the water in the tank. Higher-end models typically come equipped with a self-flushing feature.  In models for which manual flushing is required, it is important not to damage the water heater valve, which is usually made of plastic and is easy to break.

Although an older model may appear to be well-maintained, a question arises:  Is the maintenance worth it? Warranties often exclude labor costs, so a good rule to follow is that if the total repair cost per year is greater than 10% of the cost of buying and installing a new water heater, it is probably not worth replacing any damaged parts.

Electrical

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The inspector shall:

  1. inspect:
    1. service drop.
    2. service entrance conductors, cables, and raceways.
    3. service equipment and main disconnects.
    4. service grounding.
    5. interior components of service panels and subpanels.
    6. conductors.
    7. overcurrent protection devices.
    8. a representative number of installed lighting fixtures, switches, and receptacles.
    9. ground fault circuit interrupters and arc fault circuit interrupters.
  2. describe:
    1. amperage rating of the service.
    2. location of main disconnect(s) and subpanels.
    3. presence or absence of smoke alarms and carbon monoxide alarms.
    4. the predominant branch circuit wiring method.

The inspector is NOT required to:

  1. inspect
    1. remote control devices.
    2. or test smoke and carbon monoxide alarms, security systems, and other signaling and warning devices.
    3. low voltage wiring systems and components.
    4. ancillary wiring systems and components not a part of the primary electrical power distribution system.
    5. solar, geothermal, wind, and other renewable energy systems.
  2. measure amperage, voltage, and impedance.
  3. determine the age and type of smoke alarms and carbon monoxide alarms.

Plumbing

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The inspector shall:

  1. inspect:
    1. interior water supply and distribution systems including fixtures and faucets.
    2. interior drain, waste, and vent systems including fixtures.
    3. water heating equipment and hot water supply systems.
    4. vent systems, flues, and chimneys.
    5. fuel storage and fuel distribution systems.
    6. sewage ejectors, sump pumps, and related piping.
  2. describe:
    1. interior water supply, drain, waste, and vent piping materials
    2. water heating equipment including energy source(s).
    3. location of main water and fuel shut-off valves.

The inspector is NOT required to:

  1. inspect
    1. clothes washing machine connections.
    2. interiors of vent systems, flues, and chimneys that are not readily accessible.
    3. wells, well pumps, and water storage related equipment.
    4. water conditioning systems.
    5. solar, geothermal, and other renewable energy water heating systems.
    6. manual and automatic fire extinguishing and sprinkler systems and landscape irrigation systems.
    7. septic and other sewage disposal systems.
  2. determine:
    1. whether water supply and sewage disposal are public or private.
    2. water quality.
    3. the adequacy of combustion air components.
  3. measure water supply flow and pressure, and well water quantity.
  4. fill shower pans and fixtures to test for leaks.