• Skip to primary navigation
  • Skip to main content
  • Skip to footer
Optimal Home Inspections

Optimal Home Inspections

Most Recommended Home Inspector in NJ

  • Home
  • My Qualifications
  • Services
  • Resources
  • Book an Inspection

Marshal

Range Anti-Tip Devices

November 25, 2022 by Marshal

Anti-tip devices protect you and your children from a freestanding oven (range) from tipping over. If these appliances are not secure, they can be very dangerous! This $10 part from any home center can prevent serious burns or death.

Typical Range Anti Tip Bracket from GE

More resources:

  • Range Tipover, Safety Alert Check, Install and Stay Safer
  • Tips on Checking your Range’s Stability

Filed Under: FYI, Kitchen Tagged With: anti tip, oven, range, safety

‘Pretty shocking’: Utah woman warns others about radon after cancer diagnosis

November 17, 2022 by Marshal

BY LADD EGAN
KSLTV.com

Kerri Robins is warning others about the danger of radon after she received a stage 4 cancer diagnosis for non-smoking lung cancer.

SALT LAKE CITY —Lehi – A Utah woman is warning others about the danger of radon after she received a stage 4 cancer diagnosis for non-smoking lung cancer.

“The oncologist explained that it had metastasized,” Lehi resident Kerri Robbins said. “So it had gone from my lungs to my brain.”

Doctors first discovered the brain tumors when the 65-year-old went to the emergency room in June after she started throwing up one morning and was confused.

“As I’m washing my hands I’m looking in the mirror and I don’t know why I’m there,” Robbins said.

Follow-up visits revealed the primary source as lung cancer. It wasn’t until she made an appointment with a specialist that she thought about what may have caused her cancer.

“The first thing he said was, ‘Have you had your house tested for radon?’” Robbins recalled.

She and her husband recently had their home tested. The results revealed the radon level in their home was 31.3 picocuries per liter.

The Robbins’ family home.

“30 picocuries is like smoking three packs of cigarettes every day,” said Eleanor Divver, the radon coordinator at the Utah Department of Environmental Quality. “It’s heartbreaking to hear these stories and yet I hear them every day.”

The Environmental Protection Agency’s action level for fixing a home for radon is anything higher than 4 picocuries per liter.

“I love my house. I love my neighborhood and come to find out that that’s probably what’s given me cancer,” Robbins said. “I get up the next morning and I thought, ‘I’ve got to let people know this.’”

Like most of us, Robbins spent more time at home during the pandemic. But even before the pandemic she worked at home. Her office is on the lowest level of her home, where radon typically gathers.

“I’m working in that office five days a week,” she said.

Her husband, Ron, is now going to the doctor for his own scan. He says radon wasn’t even on their radar.

“You can’t see it. You can’t smell it. You can’t taste it,” Ron Robbins said.

Radon is a radioactive gas that forms naturally in the ground as uranium and other metals break down, according to the EPA. It enters homes through cracks and gaps in the foundation.

Known as a slow and silent killer, radon causes about 21,000 lung cancer deaths every year in the U.S., the EPA said.

Lung cancer is the leading cause of cancer death in the Beehive State even though we have the lowest smoking rate in the nation, according to the Utah Department of Environmental Quality.

“We know that the risks are great for lung cancer,” Divver said.

Children at more at risk, Divver said, because they’re lower to the ground, breathe more often and because of the shape of their lungs.

“We see the highest levels in the winter months,” she said.

In the winter, people keep their doors and windows shut, keeping the radon trapped inside.

“I’m probably seeing the higher radon levels in newer homes because we’re making homes so airtight,” Divver said. “We’re building in areas where we used to mine. So we’re seeing it everywhere.”

The only way for Utahns to know if their home has elevated levels of the cancer-causing gas is to get a test.

Across the country, the EPA said one in 15 homes has too much radon.

The EPA recommends testing your home for radon every two years and to test after any renovations or if family members begin living in the basement.

TJ Mellars with Utah Radon Services said the good news is that you can rid your home of high radon levels with a mitigation system.

“So that the gases, instead of getting pushed up into the home have an escape route by getting sucked up through the radon pipe and then vented above the roof line.”

This week his company installed a system at the Robbins’ home.

“It’s a small expense to pay to reduce the risk of lung cancer,” Mellars said.

Mellars said the every home is different and to not forgo testing based off of assumptions or how your neighbor’s home tested.

“A lot of people think only old homes with big cracks in the foundation have radon and that’s simply not the case,” Mellars said. “New homes are just as susceptible”

Robbins is undergoing treatment and warning her neighbors and anyone who will listen about the dangers of radon.

“You’ve got to know,” she said. ”Please, get tested.”

She’s focusing on spending time with her family and friends and is staying busy baking hundreds of Christmas cookies for her neighborhood.

“I’m so incredibly blessed because there’s a lot of other people whose stories are much different than mine,” Robbins said. “I’m sure at some point in time it won’t be very pretty. But in the meantime, we’re going to take every minute we can get.”

NOTE: This article has been reposted by Optimal Home Inspections as a service to our clients. This article was edited for space considerations. For the original article see https://ksltv.com/511741/utah-woman-warns-about-radon-after-cancer-diagnosis/

New Jersey resource: NJ Dept of Environmental Protection: Radiation Protection Element

Filed Under: FYI, Radon

PSE&G Smart Meter Installations

November 17, 2022 by Marshal

PSE&G is in the process of replacing 2.3 million electric meters with new smart meters. If you are a PSE&G electric customer, here is what you should know about the smart meter installation process.

If you are a PSE&G electric customer, here is what you should know about the smart meter installation process:

  • The timing of your smart-meter installation will depend on the municipality you live in as crews make their way through our electric service territory from the north, south, and west.
  • You will receive a letter in advance of your smart meter installation. You will also receive a reminder letter about two weeks from the smart-meter installation date.
  • If your electric meter is located outside and is accessible, there is nothing you need to do.
  • If your meter is located inside or is otherwise inaccessible, we will provide instructions on making an installation appointment in the reminder letter. You only need to make an installation appointment if the meter is located inside or is not accessible.
  • Most installations take a few minutes with a brief interruption of power. The worker will leave a door hanger letting you know that they replaced the existing meter with a smart meter.

The new smart meter we install will provide you with several benefits, including:

  • Automatic, near real-time meter reading that will eliminate almost all estimated electric bills.
  • Near real-time power-outage detection and more efficient power restoration following storms.
  • Enhanced electric-use information will allow you to make more informed energy decisions.

To learn more about our smart meter effort, please visit pseg.com/smartmeters.

NOTE: This PSE&G article has been reposted by Optimal Home Inspections as a service to our clients.

Filed Under: Electrical, FYI

Mold References

November 13, 2022 by Marshal

Facts About Mold: A Consumer Focus

PDF

The Occupational Safety and Health Administration (OSHA)

Website

Basic Facts about Mold and Dampness

PDF

CDC Stachybotrys – Questions and answers on Stachybotrys chartarum and other molds

PDF

National Library of Medicine-Mold

Website

Filed Under: FYI, Mold

Preparing Your Home For a Home Inspection

October 24, 2022 by Marshal

If you are having a maintenance or home health inspection of your home, here are some ways to make your home inspection go smoother.

  • Ensure the inspector has access not only to the house but also to the furnace, water heater, and air-conditioning units (especially in closets, attics, and crawlspaces).
  • Remove items blocking access to HVAC equipment, electric service, panels, water heaters, etc.
  • Check that the garage is open and that any water heater, utility panel, shutoffs, and resets for ground-fault circuit interrupters (GFCIs) within are accessible.
  • Unlock areas the inspector must access, such as attic doors or hatches, electric service panels, closets, fence gates, and crawlspaces.
  • Ensure that all utility services are on, with gas pilot lights burning.
  • Make sure that pets won’t hinder the inspection. Ideally, they should be removed from the premises or secured outside.
  • Replace burned-out bulbs to avoid a “light did not operate” report that may suggest an electrical problem.
  • Remove stored items, debris, and wood from the foundation. These conditions are conducive to wood-destroying insects.
  • Trim tree limbs to 10 feet from the roof and shrubs to 1 foot from the house to allow access.

Checking these areas before your home inspection will optimize the time we inspect your home.

Filed Under: FYI

Baby Boomer Safety in the Home

June 28, 2022 by Marshal

 “Aging in place” is the phenomenon describing senior citizens’ ability to live independently in their homes for as long as possible. Those who age in place will not have to move from their present residence in order to secure necessary support services in response to their changing needs. 

As the baby boomers age, the 60+ population will spike from roughly 45 million in recent years to more than 70 million by 2020. Research shows that baby boomers’ expectations of how they will receive care differ from that of their parent’s generation.  Overwhelmingly, they will seek care in their own homes and will be less likely to move into assisted-living settings.

Many corrections and adaptations to the home can improve maneuverability, accessibility, and safety for elderly occupants, as well as those whose mobility is limited for reasons that are not age-related. Some such alterations and recommendations for a home are as follows:

Appliances:

  • microwave oven in wall or on counter; 
  • refrigerator and freezer side by side; 
  • side-swing or wall oven; 
  • controls that  are easy to read; 
  • raised washing machine and dryer; 
  • front-loading washing machines; 
  • raised dishwasher with push-button controls; 
  • stoves having electric cooktops with level burners for safely transferring between the burners; front controls and downdraft feature to pull heat away from user; light to indicate when the surface is hot; and 
  • replace old stoves with induction cooktops to help prevent burns.

Countertops:

  • base cabinet with roll-out trays; 
  • pull-down shelving; 
  • wall support, and provision for adjustable and/or varied height counters and removable base cabinets; 
  • upper wall cabinetry lower than conventional height; 
  • accented stripes on edge of countertops to provide visual orientation to the workspace; 
  • counter space for dish landing adjacent to or opposite all appliances; 
  • glass-front cabinet doors; and
  • open shelving for easy access to frequently used items.

Bathroom:

  • fold-down seat installed in the shower; 
  • adjustable showerheads with a 6-foot hose; 
  • light in shower stall; 
  • wall support, and provision for adjustable and/or varied height counters and removable base cabinets; 
  • contrasting color edge border at countertops; 
  • at least one wheelchair-maneuverable bath on the main level; 
  • bracing in walls around the tub, shower, shower seat, and toilet for installation of grab bars; 
  • if a stand-up shower is used in the main bath, it is curbless and wide; 
  • low bathtub; 
  • walk-in shower;
  • toilet higher than a standard toilet, or height-adjustable; 
  • design of the toilet paper holder allows rolls to be changed with one hand; 
  • wall-hung sink with knee space and panel to protect a user from pipes; and
  • slip-resistant flooring in bathroom and shower.

Exterior:

  • low-maintenance exterior (vinyl, brick, etc); and 
  • low-maintenance shrubs and plants.

Entry:

  • sensor light at exterior no-step entry focusing on the front-door lock; 
  • non-slip flooring in the foyer; 
  • accessible path of travel to the home; 
  • at least one no-step entry with a cover; 
  • entry door sidelight or high/low peep hole viewer; sidelight should provide both privacy and safety; 
  • doorbell in an accessible location; and
  • a surface on which to place packages while opening the door.

Electrical, Lighting, Safety, and Security:

  • install new smoke and CO detectors; 
  • install automated lighting, an emergency alert system, or a video-monitoring system; 
  • easy-to-see and read thermostats; 
  • light switches by each entrance to halls and rooms; 
  • light receptacles with at least two bulbs in vital places (exits, bathroom); 
  • light switches, thermostats, and other environmental controls placed in accessible locations no higher than 48 inches from the floor; 
  • move electrical cords out of the flow of traffic; 
  • replace standard light switches with a rocker or touch-light switches; and
  • pre-programmed thermostats.

Flooring:

  • if carpeted, use low-density with a firm pad; 
  • smooth, non-glare, slip-resistant surfaces, interior and exterior; and
  • color and texture contrast to indicate a change in surface levels.

Hallways:

  • wide; 
  • well-lit; and
  • fasten down rugs and floor runners, and remove any that are not necessary.

Miscellaneous:

  • 30-inch by 48-inch clear space at appliances, or 60-inch diameter clear space for turns; 
  • multi-level work areas to accommodate cooks of different heights; 
  • loop handles for easy grip and pull; 
  • pull-out spray faucet; 
  • levered handles; 
  • in multi-story homes, laundry chute or laundry facilities in master bedroom; 
  • open under-counter seated work areas; and
  • placement of task lighting in appropriate work areas.

Overall Floor Plan:

  • main living on a single story, including a full bath; 
  • 5-foot by 5-foot clear turn space in the living area, kitchen, a bedroom, and a bathroom; and
  • no steps between rooms on a single level.

Reduced Maintenance and Convenience Features:

  • easy-to-clean surfaces; 
  • built-in recycling system; 
  • video phones; 
  • central vacuum system; 
  • built-in pet feeding system; and
  • intercom system.

Stairways, Stair Lifts, and Elevators:

  • adequate handrails on both sides of the stairway; 
  • residential elevator or lift; and
  • increased visibility of stairs using contrast strips on the top and bottom stairs, and color contrast between treads and risers on stairs with the use of lighting.

Storage:

  • lighting in closets; 
  • adjustable closet rods and shelves; and
  • easy-open doors that do not obstruct access.

Windows:

  • plenty of windows for natural light; 
  • low-maintenance exterior and interior finishes; 
  • lowered windows, or taller windows with lower sill height; and
  • easy-to-operate hardware.

Advice for those who wish to age in place:

  • Talk with family members about your long-term living preferences. Do you want to downsize to a smaller single-family home, or do you plan to stay put in your traditional family home?
  • Take a look at your finances and retirement funds. With your current savings and assets, will you be able to pay for home maintenance? Consider starting a separate retirement savings account strictly for home maintenance. 
  • Remodel your home before your mobility becomes limited. As you age, changes in mobility, hearing, vision and overall health and flexibility will affect how easily you function in your home. Consider making your home “age-friendly” as a phased-in and budgeted home improvement, rather than waiting until you need many modifications at a time due to a health crisis. 
  • If you decide before you retire that you want to live in your current home through the remainder of life, consider paying for “big ticket – long life” home projects while you still have a healthy income. Such items may include having the roof assessed or replaced, replacing and upgrading the water heater or cooling unit, completing termite inspections and treatment, having a septic tank inspection and replacement, as needed, and purchasing a riding lawn mower. 
  • Healthy living plays a vital role in your ability to age in place. Most seniors leave their homes due to functional and mobility limitations that result from medical crises and an inability to pay for support to stay with them in their homes. Effectively managing health risks and maintaining a healthy lifestyle can help you stay strong, age well, and live long at your own home.

Residential Outbuildings

An alternative to adapting the primary residence is building or adapting an ancillary structure on the property.  So-called mother-in-law apartments are sometimes built over detached garages so that the non-primary resident can enjoy some autonomy and independence from the nuclear family in the main house.  Carriage houses, barns, and studios are often adapted as extra living quarters.  While these types of dwellings can be upgraded to offer the basic necessities of a standard home, such as a sleeping area, sitting area, refrigerator, toilet, shower stall and sink, they may lack a bathtub, stove, and separate rooms.  The electrical and plumbing services tend to be limited, including the number of receptacles and GFCIs.  Also, there may be no HVAC system beyond the required system venting. 

Mobile housing units, accessory dwelling units (ADUs), practical assisted-living structures (PALS), the nicknamed “med cottages” and “granny-pods” are newer housing innovations that are gaining popularity with homeowners who wish to house aging or infirm relatives on their properties without building an addition onto the primary residence.  Both parties are able to enjoy some privacy, and the non-primary resident can achieve an appropriate level of independence.  Many of these units have high-tech features, such as electronic medical alert systems, timers, video monitors, and automated floor lighting, such as that which illuminates the path from the bed to the bathroom that turns on by foot pressure.  

While these units may incorporate some abbreviated systems of a traditional home (i.e., electrical, plumbing, HVAC), high-tech features such as those described will require installation by a manufacturer’s representative or other knowledgeable experts.  Additionally, local zoning laws may have certain requirements for such structures or may prohibit them altogether.  Before families go to the energy and expense of upgrading an ancillary structure, they should check with their local building or zoning department.

Filed Under: FYI Tagged With: aging in place

Spring Home Maintenance Checklist

June 15, 2022 by Marshal

Incorporate these simple steps into your home maintenance routine as we transition from winter to spring.

Filed Under: FYI

Safety Barrier Guidelines for Residential Pools

June 4, 2022 by Marshal

Many communities have enacted safety regulations for barriers at residential swimming pools—in-ground and above ground. In addition to following these laws, parents who own pools can take their own precautions to reduce the chances of their youngsters accessing the family or neighbors’ pools or spas without supervision. This booklet provides tips for creating and maintaining effective barriers to pools and spas.

See the document here.

Filed Under: FYI

Preventing Water Intrusion

May 10, 2022 by Marshal

Preventing Water Intrusion in Basements & Crawlspaces

The biggest concern for homeowners related to their basement and/or crawlspace area is unwanted moisture intrusion.  This can be the result of several factors, which is why homeowners should occasionally check these areas.

The basement is typically the area of a home most at risk for water damage because it’s located below grade and surrounded by soil.  Soil releases the water it has absorbed during rain or when the snow melts, and the water can end up in the basement through cracks.  Water can even migrate through solid concrete walls via capillary action, which is a phenomenon whereby liquid spontaneously rises in a narrow space, such as a thin tube, or via porous materials.  Wet basements can cause problems that include peeling paint, toxic mold contamination, building rot, foundation collapse, and termite damage.  Even interior air quality can be affected if naturally occurring gases released by the soil are being transmitted into the basement. 

Properly waterproofing a basement will lessen the risk of damage caused by moisture or water.  Homeowners should be aware of what they can do to keep their basements and crawlspaces dry and safe from damage. 

Prevent water entry.
You can help prevent water from entering the basement by ensuring that it’s diverted away from the foundation.  Poor roof drainage and surface runoff due to gutter defects and improper site grading may be the most common causes of a wet basement. 

Here are some measures to use to divert water away from the foundation:

  • Install and maintain gutters and downspouts so that they route all rainwater and snowmelt at least 10 feet away from the foundation to prevent pooling near the exterior walls.  At the point where water leaves the downspout, it should be able to flow freely away from the foundation instead of back toward it, and it should not be collecting in standing puddles.  A backsplash and diverter can help with this.
  • The finish grade should be sloped away from the building for 10 to 15 feet.  Low spots that may lead to water pooling near the foundation should be re-graded and evened out.
  • Shallow ditches called swales should be dug if one or more sides of the home face an upward slope.  A swale should slope away from the home for 10 to 15 feet, at which point it can empty into another swale that directs water around to the downhill-side of the property, leading it away from the foundation.

Repair all cracks and holes.
There are several causes of cracks and holes that permit moisture intrusion.  Poor workmanship during the home’s construction is one factor.  Water pressure from the outside can also build up, forcing water through the walls.  The house may have settled, causing cracks in the floor or walls.  It’s important to repair all cracks and small holes to prevent leaks and floods.  Any large cracks or holes should be evaluated by a professional after consulting with your InterNACHI home inspector.

Here are some steps to take if you suspect that water is entering the basement through cracks or holes:

  • Examine the basement for holes and cracks and for moisture, leaks and discoloration.
  • A waterproof mixture of epoxy and latex cement can be used to fill small hairline cracks and holes. 
  • Any cracks larger than about 1/8-inch should be filled with mortar made from one part cement and two parts fine sand, with just enough water to make a fairly stiff mortar.  It should be pressed firmly into all parts of the larger cracks and holes to be sure that no air bubbles or pockets remain.  As long as water is not being forced through the basement walls due to outside pressure, the application of mortar with a standard trowel will be sufficient if special care is taken to fill all cracks completely.
  • If water is being forced through by outside pressure, a slightly different method of patching can be used, involving chiseling out the mouth the crack along its length and cutting a dovetail groove, which is then filled with mortar.  You may wish to defer this type of repair to a masonry professional.
  • Sodium silicate is a water-based mixture that will actually penetrate the substrate by up to 4 inches.  Concrete, concrete block and masonry include lime as a natural component, which reacts with the sodium silicate to produce a solid, crystalline structure that fills in all the microscopic cracks, holes and pores.  No water vapor or gas will be able to penetrate via capillary action because the concrete and masonry have now become harder and denser from the sodium silicate.  It is an alkaline substance and, as such, can burn the skin and eyes on contact.  Inhalation can also cause respiratory irritation.  All surfaces receiving this treatment must be prepared, and the several required applications must be thorough.  These are all reasons that this type of work should be performed by a trained professional.

Filed Under: FYI

Air-Conditioning Systems

May 6, 2022 by Marshal

A building’s central air-conditioning system must be periodically inspected and maintained in order to function properly. While an annual inspection performed by a trained professional is recommended, homeowners can do a lot of the work themselves by following the tips offered here.

Clean the Exterior Condenser Unit and Components

The exterior condenser unit is the large box located on the side of the house that’s designed to push heat from the indoors to the outdoors. Inside of the box are coils of pipe that are surrounded by thousands of thin metal “fins” that allow the coils more surface area to exchange heat. 

Follow these tips when cleaning the exterior condenser unit and its inner components — after turning off power to the unit, of course.

  • Remove any leaves, spider webs and other debris from the unit’s exterior. Trim foliage back several feet from the unit to ensure proper air flow.
  • Remove the cover grille to clean any debris from the unit’s interior. A garden hose can be helpful for this task.
  • Straighten any bent fins with a tool called a fin comb.
  • Add lubricating oil to the motor. Check your owner’s manual for specific instructions.
  • Clean the evaporator coil and condenser coil at least once a year. When they collect dirt, they may not function properly.

Inspect the Condensate Drain Line

Condensate drain lines collect condensed water and drain it away from the unit.  They’re located on the side of the inside fan unit. Sometimes there are two drain lines—a primary drain line that’s built into the unit, and a secondary drain line that can drain if the first line becomes blocked. 

Homeowners can inspect the drain line by using the following tips, which take very little time and require no specialized tools:

  • Inspect the drain line for obstructions, such as algae and debris. If the line becomes blocked, water will back up into the drain pan and overflow, potentially causing a safety hazard or water damage to your home.
  • Make sure the hoses are secured and fit properly.

Clean the Air Filter

Air filters remove pollen, dust, and other particles that would otherwise circulate indoors. Most filters are typically rectangular in shape and about 20 x 16 inches, and about 1 inch thick. They slide into the main ductwork near the inside fan unit. The filter should be periodically washed or replaced, depending on the manufacturer’s instructions. A dirty air filter will not only degrade the quality of the home indoors, but it will also strain the motor to work harder to move air through it, increasing energy costs and reducing energy efficiency. The filter should be replaced monthly during heavy use during the cooling seasons. You may need to change the filter more often if the air conditioner is in constant use, if any family members have respiratory problems if you have pets with fur, and/or if it’s particularly dusty indoors.  

Close the Air-Distribution Registers

Air-distribution registers are duct openings in ceilings, walls and floors where cold air enters the room. They should be closed after the cooling season ends in order to keep warm air from back-flowing out of the room during the warming season. Pests and dust will also be unable to enter the ducts during the winter if the registers are closed. These vents can typically be opened or closed with an adjacent lever or wheel.  Remember to open the registers in the spring before the cooling season starts.  Also, make sure they’re not blocked by drapes, carpeting or furniture.

In addition, homeowners should practice the following strategies in order to keep their central air-conditioning systems running properly:

  • Have the air-conditioning system inspected by a professional each year before the start of the cooling season.
  • Reduce stress on the air-conditioning system by enhancing your home’s energy efficiency. Switch from incandescent lights to compact fluorescents, for instance, which produce less heat.

Thermostats

Thermostats are devices designed to control the heating and cooling system in the home so that the air temperature remains comfortable. Homeowners should understand how thermostats operate, as well as the more common problems associated with them. 

Thermostats can be manually controlled or set to activate automatically based on timers or room temperature readings. Most thermostats contain two meters:  the “set” temperature that the thermostat is asking for, and the actual temperature. On a traditional dial-type thermostat, the user can increase the set temperature by rotating the dial clockwise, and lower it by rotating it counter-clockwise. Newer thermostats usually have digital displays, which can be used to adjust automated heating and cooling schedules. 

Location

In order to avoid false or “ghost” readings, which will cause unnecessary furnace or air-conditioner cycling, the thermostat must be installed so that it correctly reads the room temperature. 

The following locations may cause the thermostat to give false readings: 

  • near a heat source, such as a fireplace, hot water pipes, bright lights, direct sunlight, and electrical appliances that produce heat;  
  • in a drafty hallway, or near a window or exterior door that is left open often; and
  • on an outside wall. Outside walls are affected too much by outside temperatures, which may make the thermostat “think” the air in the house is warmer or cooler than it really is.

Common Thermostat Problems and Solutions

  • erratic operation or fluctuating temperature. This is often caused by poor pin connections between the thermostat and the backplate when the backplate is flexed against an uneven wall. To allow the backplate to flatten out, loosen the screws that attach the backplate to the wall, then snap the thermostat back onto the backplate. 
  • a thermostat that doesn’t respond to changes in room temperature. This can happen when there is air passing over the temperature sensor from a hole in the wall behind the thermostat, through which wires enter from the air-handling unit. To rectify this, insulate the hole behind the thermostat with fiber insulation, spray foam, or any other insulating material. 
  • a temperature reading that is inaccurate. A convenient way to test the temperature sensor is to tape a thermometer to the wall next to the thermostat and wait 15 minutes. A faulty thermometer needs to be recalibrated. Instructions for recalibration vary by manufacturer. 
  • loss of power. This may be caused by the following two situations:
    1. If the air handler powers the thermostat, check the circuit breaker meant for the air handler and make sure it has not tripped.
    2. If batteries power the thermostat, make sure they are lithium, not alkaline. Alkaline batteries will die rapidly or cause erratic thermostat operation.

Maintenance and Other Tips

  • Give the thermostat’s interior a light dusting with a small, soft-bristle paintbrush. Canned air can also be used to blow off dust. Twist the screws to remove the cover. Be sure to clean the contacts, which are small metal plates within the unit. The wires coming from the transformer attach to the contacts. Do not touch any of the interior parts with your fingers. 
  • If the base is loose, re-tighten the screws. Check the wires coming from the transformer. If any corrosion is present, remove the wire from the contact and clean it. Use a wire stripper to remove the surrounding insulation, cut back the wire, and reconnect it. 
  • Make sure the terminal screws are tight. 
  • For wireless thermostats, make sure the model number of the thermostat matches the model number of the receiver. If the model numbers don’t match, the thermostat and receiver will not be compatible and won’t function properly together. 
  • Make sure that your thermostat has been set to the proper position for the season: cooling or heating. The air conditioner will not run with the switch set to “heating” and, conversely, the heating system won’t run if the thermostat has been set to “cooling.”
  • Thermostats that contain a mercury switch must remain perfectly level or they may not control the temperature setting. 

A Few Notes on Energy Savings

  • Many people believe that furnaces work harder than normal to warm an area back up to a comfortable temperature, which will counteract energy savings gained from turning the thermostat down. This belief is a misconception that has been disproved by years of studies and research. Fuel is saved between the time the temperature is stabilized at the lower level and the next time heat is needed, while the fuel required to re-heat the space is roughly equal to the fuel saved while the building drops to a lower temperature. 
  • According to the U.S. Department of Energy, consumers can save 10% on their utility bills by setting their thermostat lower by 10° to 15° for eight hours. This can be easily accomplished with a programmable thermostat. 
  • Be careful not to set the thermostat so low in the winter that indoor plumbing pipes freeze, or so low during the summer that mold may be allowed to grow prompted by excess indoor humidity.  

Programmable Thermostats

Using a programmable thermostat in the winter, you can automatically turn down your heat at night or when you’re not at home.  In the summer, you can save money by automatically turning your air conditioner up at night or when you’re at work. 

Using a programmable thermostat, you can adjust the times that the heating and air conditioner go on and off according to a preset schedule. As a result, the equipment doesn’t operate as much when you’re asleep or when the house (or a part of it) is empty. Programmable thermostats can store and repeat multiple daily settings (six or more temperature settings a day) that you can manually override without affecting the rest of the daily or weekly program.

Filed Under: FYI, HVAC

  • « Go to Previous Page
  • Page 1
  • Page 2
  • Page 3
  • Page 4
  • Interim pages omitted …
  • Page 10
  • Go to Next Page »

Footer

Optimal Home Inspections LLC

Call 551-261-1264

Optimal Home Inspections
2600 John F Kennedy Blvd
Jersey City, NJ 07306
North Jersey - Hudson County
(551) 261-1264

101 Dunhams Corner Rd
East Brunswick, NJ 08816
Central Jersey - Middlesex County
(551) 261-1264

Follow us

  • facebook
  • instagram
  • linkedin
  • threads
  • x

Licenses

NJ Home Inspector License Number: 24GI00176700

Certified Radon Measurement Technician: MET13906

Termite Inspector – Commercial Pesticide Applicator License Number: 61282B

Lead-Safe Certified Firm NAT-F238931-1

Associations

American Society of Home Inspectors (ASHI)
Garden State Chapter American Society of Home Inspectors
International Association of Certified Home Inspectors (InterNACHI)
NJ International Association of Certified Home Inspectors

Our Service Area

I inspect homes in Bergin, Essex, Hudson, Middlesex, Monmouth, Morris, Passaic, Somerset, and Union Counties. I inspect anywhere in New Jersey, but the counties listed here are where I work most.

Opening Hours

Monday 8 AM – 9 PM
Tuesday 8 AM – 9 PM
Wednesday 8 AM – 9 PM
Thursday 8 AM – 9 PM
Friday 8 AM – 9 PM
Saturday 8 AM – 9 PM
Sunday 8 AM – 9 PM

Copyright © 2025 · Optimal Home Inspections LLC · Log in

  • Home
  • Book an Inspection
  • Services
  • Standards
  • Resources
  • Reports